Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rust

[jaybigboy34]

As you can see by my sig I have a lot of money invested into my truck. I got under the truck to change the differential oil and noticed all kinds of rust starting to form on the frame, axles and so forth. I don't want my truck to turn into a rust bucket. Does anyone have any tips on cleaning up the rust and coating some parts without having to spend hundreds of dollars?



Thanks

 

[JRihani]

I have used POR-15 with great success on a Jeep of mine. Not cheap, but I think quite a few people on here will agree it is worth the investment. I don't think it will cost you several hundered dollars. My truck doesn't have any rust to speak of, but when it begins I will use POR-15. Check it out:



www.por-15.com



Hope this helps.

 

[jaybigboy34]

Hey, I really appreciate it JRihani.

 

[RacinDuallie]

jaybigboy34-
Did you drive past my house over the weekend or something!?! I was out in my driveway stripping the factory paint off my frame this weekend! I have this metal cleaner and conditioner for bare metal from PPG I think the # is DX570 ? I'm working my way from front to back on my frame with a rt. angle air die grinder and 3-M wheel. I saw alittle surface rust on my frame in spots and I decided to take care of it now- I'll post some pics

 

[rkressg]

I tried the POR15, but it rusted out right away again (I live in salt country). Most recently, I have been having good luck with the Rustoleam Hammer Finish gloss black. It is inexpensive, and provides a good clean finish. Also, I think it has a harder finish and lasts longer than the POR stuff.

-Rich

 

[JRihani]

Hey, that's the great thing about this forum, lots of different perspectives! I used the POR-15 marine clean and the POR-15 surface prep and it has held like a rock on my Jeep here in Indiana winters (admittedly milder than PA). Just a note, POR-15 does not like UV, so if it is an area that will get a lot of sunlight spray your favorite color over it.

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

What about spraying it with something like linseed oil / motor oil mixture? Do this about every other year and it should help out the rust situation. I am going to do mine for the first time this summer, before the rust gets a start.

 

[Hohn]

Based on my frustration with POR-15, I switched to Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood Company. This product is far superior, imho for both durability and ease of application. POR-15 is a royal pain. With Rust Encapsulator, just brush off the loose stuff and spray it on. You can also get it in pint, qts, etc for brushing on.



http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852



Good article from "auto restorer" magazine^^^.



Having used both, I will never use POR 15 again.



I love Eastwood products!!



justin

 

[JRihani]

Hohn,



Well, I answered this post with my good experience with POR-15 but after reading your post I'm going to buy a rattle-can of rust encapsulator to try. I've always wished POR-15 would come in a spray-can for the small jobs. Thanks!

 

[RacinDuallie]

I know the product is 'paint over rust', but really do you want to paint over it or remove it, clean the bare metal with a good metal cleaner( I use PPG Products) and then use a good metal conditioner, seal it all up with a quality primer,(I use PPG DP-90 Black Epoxy Primer)
Then reduce the POR-15 using the POR reducer- and load up your spray gun (I normally use a HVLP type gun for my paints and primers-I have seperate guns for primer use and paint use) but when using the POR-15 I use one of them detail spray guns- small and compact, and if the POR starts to set up in the gun it's ruined!:{
which is why I don't use it in any of my $400. 00+ spray guns! The stuff is tough as nails! Get any on your skin and you'll keep it on you for days!! Forget thinner, kerosene,acetone ect. POR laughs at that stuff !!

So the POR-15 works GREAT- it's all on how you properly prep the surface.....

 

[jaybigboy34]

Thanks for all of the replys. Should I remove the rust before trying the Eastwood product? Or just apply it over top?

 

[RacinDuallie]

IMHO- you can paint a turd all nice and pretty but ya still have a turd underneath... ... .

Proper prep work is the key to proper paint application-and will yield the results one expects... ... .

Why paint over the rust? How do you expect the paint to have any 'tooth' or 'bite' to the suface being painted, by leaving the rust there-and painting over it? That's one of the main reasons for those that have problems with painting- like I said the main key to a successful paint job is PREP WORK!

Sure painting over the rust is quick and easy- but the results of this qwickie job will soon show with flaking and failing paint... ... ...


If you not into taking the time like I am with my frame then go out and by a rattle can of the finest satin black epoxy paint 5 bucks will buy...

 

[jraker]

Anyone ever try Rhinolining or a similar product on the underside. I know it is heavy but it does prevent your bed from rusting out.

 

[jaybigboy34]

Easy there RacinDuallie, I was just wondering if that Eastwood stuff was good enough to last if you applied it over the rust. I always like to hear the easiest solution that someone else has tried and it worked well for them. Then I always take it the extra steps to make sure it is done right. By the way, that was a really nice prep job you did to your truck. What all equipment did you use to clean it that good?

 

[RacinDuallie]

Of coarse the job is many times easier when you have an empty engine bay to work around in!! But with creative patience simillar results can be achieved! But remember it's all in the prep work!! No matter which type of paint you use!

Even the natural oils on your clean hands can effect the surface being prepped- always wipe down with a tack rag and a little acetone- before shooting any bare metal surface- and do not touch after wiping with the tack rag!

 

[RacinDuallie]

By the way, that was a really nice prep job you did to your truck. What all equipment did you use to clean it that good?

Oh- before I forget: Thanks for the compliments!!

 

[Hohn]

Racinduallie---



If you're going to go through the hassle of stripping everything down to bare metal, then it defeats the purpose of a specialty paint like POR 15 or Rust Encapsulator.



These products are marketed as stopping rust by removing loose rust and applying them on top. POR-15 actually claims their product adheres BEST to rusty surfaces. (see their website)



While I think Marine Clean is the greatest degreaser ever, I think that Eastwood's stuff is better than the POR-15 paints.



While you are generally correct in paint prep, that's for CONVENTIONAL PAINT. If you actually bothered to READ up on POR15 and Rust encapsulator, you're see that they are supposed to stop rust or prevent it from getting worse WITHOUT all the prep t hat you outlined for regular paint.



Heck, if I was stripping to bare metal, I'd go with powdercoat or something like that (maybe bedliner).



The prep for POR 15 is brush off losse rust, Degrease (Marine Clean), apply Metal Ready, then apply POR 15



For Rust encapsulator, it's just brush off and spray on--- and it works well.



Justin

 

[RacinDuallie]

Captain Hohn,
Sir, If you look at post #11- I know the procedure and purpose of both the paints- people talk about bad experiences with paints and usually the real reason is improper preparation, or contanimation i. e. - hand oils, oil in airlines, using the wrong type of masking paper( with inks- i. e. -newspapers ect. ) I have used POR-15 many times, and also wore it many times:{ . If used as intended- as long as you make the proper prep work happen and ensure the surface is clean the products will work as intended. I've seen it flake off real bad on a truck and I asked about the prep work- I got the answer: uhh I opened the can and applied...
What no scuffing or cleaning? IMHO if you want to do the job right and have it last treat it like your preparing a hood or fender or bed or anyother part that is in plain sight- work like a sterile surgeon- clean!

And seeing how my frame is coming out and the suspension pieces ect. I have to admit it's coming out way better than I expected... ..... I may just retool my thoughts and plans here- I have that PPG metal conditioner on it so it will be protected from rust penetration happening, I've been thinking of trying out this German paint that's known for toughness and goodlooks- Immron Glasurit Paint- I might have spelled it wrong but I can say it fine enough for the paint guy to understand. I have plenty of time to decide anyhow she's not gonna rust at all. And it sure looks cool walking by the front end and seeing it all shiny!

Or maybe I'll clear coat this the way it is now?Oo.




Or maybe I'll stencil on some tribal flame patterns and shoot some ghost flames ... ... ...


Jeez with a clean surface like this you really could do anything you wanted and set yourself away from the norm.....

 

[Hohn]

OOOO I can see it now-- flames on the frame! A detailed frame is a VERY cool thing, and is one of the details that sets apart the show winners from the show participants.



Imron is very good paint, but like the POR, kinda difficult to work with.



Ever thought about aircraft paint??



jlh

 

[RacinDuallie]

Capt. Hohn,
Sir, at this point my options are open so what type of aircraft paint would you be referring to? I am really leaning towards a paint that will be able to withstand the enviorment the frame and suspension has to live in. If I was to detail this frame with little details like tribal flames, I will have to use a base paint that will be compatible with the paint for the extra 'details', as not all paints are compatible like that.....


Unless, of coarse- if you can get me a lead on some of that radar deflecting paint?