2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rusted Through Brake Lines? Anyone Else?

[y-knot]

Brake lines are no different then any other part of the truck that need maintenance, everything wears, rust, stretches and breaks. Depending on where you live and where you drive your truck, some will have more maintenance problems then others. Braking systems, like everything else need attention. The hoses at each corner and above the rear end are all good for 4-5 years. Your brake pads and shoes 3-4 depending on how you drive and the brake fluid itself, 4 years, they flush and re-fill. The steel lines are good for a bit longer then the hoses, but then again it depends on the location, and type of driving. All need to be checked at some sort of regular interval. Same goes for the rest of the truck, the radiator and heater hoses should be changed at 4-5 years, the belts 4 years or every 75K miles, power steering fluid 4 years and radiator should be flushed and new coolant added every 3-4 years. It's all just part of a good scheduled maintenance program.

 

[RON'S RAM]

I guess I'm doing good then, all of my hoses are 10 years old.

 

[Mactruck]

Last Summer I had the Brake lines replaced in my 95 Phord Gasser (My plow truck)



I had a line go and the pedal went to the floor. Replaced it.



Next day hit the pedal hard, Another line goes, pedal goes to the floor.



Next day replaced ALL lines and has been great since.



This is a maintanence issue not bad quality in my Personal opinion.



We New Englanders Love our salt!

 

[Dave E]

They're only mild steel... doesn't hold up well against any salt or winter driving areas. I heard of a place that offers a better option than stainless steel lines, which are expensive and can be hard to bend and can be brittle. Check this place out before buying stainless lines. www.cunifer.com

The navy uses it on all hydraulic and oil lines due to its corrosion resistance.

Here's the thread I started on those back in November: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171172



6 months later, I am 100% satisfied with those lines. They continue to work great and have had no leaks or anything. Now that the winter and snow/salt season is over, I took a look at them and they pretty much look exactly like when I installed them.

 

[RBSOB]

Mine just went today. Same location, in the frame rail, behind the tank. I won't have time to get it myself before the weekend, so off to the garage I guess!!! Will the tank have to be dropped, or is it a single piece of line that can be disconnected at each end and a new one fitted in ??? Thanks

 

[Dave E]

I just cut the old one out and routed the new line in a more convenient spot. Don't remember if I was able to fish the old line out or not. Almost a year now, and still 100% satisfied w/ the Cunifer lines.

 

[EKlem]

If you can avoid taking out the old one, it is better. You are likely to disrupt your fuel lines by taking out the old brake line. I had no problem running a new line up through there with the tank and old line in place. Keep in mind that if your brake line rusted through, your fuel lines are probably in pretty rough shape too if you haven't done something about them yet.

 

[RON'S RAM]

No need to remove the tank. I was able to remove the old rusted lines & install new lines in the original clips on the frame. Takes a little patience but not that bad of a job. Definately go with the better brake lines posted in this thread.

 

[The patriot]

My Dad just fixed his neighbors 1996 1500 4X4.

The leak was near the dist block near the front tire. He lives in Maine.

Mine have surface rust, but dont look like they'll rust through any time soon.

 

[SRath]

I have been spending some time under my truck touching up the undercoating for winter and have noticed serious corrosion on my lines, too. With all of these failures you guys tell of, my doubts about those cheap tinned factory lines have been confirmed. I don't think I want to wait for that crucial, and potentially life-and-death, panic-stop to discover they no longer can take full pressure.



InLineTube is a company that offers stainless computer pre-formed lines for many vehicles. They make the lines I'm putting on my '69 Camaro (brake and fuel). They also sell them made from the original tinned steel for the "purists", but I don't care about "show points" compared to safety and longevity. A complete kit is only @ $150 to $200 for the Camaro, and that is every inch of every line, including the rear axle lines and master cylinder to proportioning valve.



The difference in price between stainless and the cheap tinned steel is so small given the consequences of failure, that I agree stainless should be mandatory. Your life is apparently not worth those few extra dollars to the manufacturers. I would gladly trade any number of inane electronic gizmos today's vehicles are overloaded with for better basics, like brake lines that don't corrode and blow out when you really need them.



As for accepting that things wear out, that is true. But we are not talking about moving parts here or a simple roadside breakdown if they fail. Brake lines should be of premium material, not "corporate cost effective" material, especially given the numerous stories of failures posted just here. Note that the rubber brake hoses, that actually do move and flex, are outlasting the stationary steel lines. That speaks volumes.



Would you fly on an airplane with hydraulic lines made from the same cheap material and exposed to the elements? There is little difference in outcome between hitting a semi at 70 mph and hitting the earth at terminal velocity except for the news coverage afterwards.

 

[RBSOB]

Thanks for the replies. I will see if I can get it replaced/re- routed without dropping the tank. Looks like the front lines will have to be replaced soon also.

 

[KEnhoffer]

Mine to

I know this is an old thread, but I want to add my brakeline, fortunately it blew in my driveway @ 105,000 miles - same place behind the fuel tank. Since it was cold and I'm no mechanic, it was off to the local repair shop. My mechanic said this is a comman failure.