Rusty axles/differentials

[JCyrbok]

Does anyone know of a good way to get rid of and keep away the surface rust and peeling paint on the axles and differentials. I like the way they look new from the dealer, but invaritably in about 6 months they start to peel and then rust. I assume that there is some special purpose paint out there for this. ANyone know what to use and if so have you used it and how were u satisfied?



Thanks

J-

 

[Blakers]

It's probably pretty cheap paint they put on there to begin with. I doubt they put much interest into keeping the under parts nice and shiny. Clean the parts up really good and put a coat of good paint on them. If everything is nice and slippery it's easier to keep clean.



I try to spray the whole bottom of my truck with oil before winter every year. But I'm more worried about the body rusting than the axles.



Blake

 

[Steve Campbell]

Blakers

what kind of oil do you use and how do you apply it?

 

[Mallory]

I had the the bolts work loose on my auto trans pan and it coated the under side of my truck. I spray washed the underside of the truck at the time and to this day 2 years later and 20k miles it still shines like new after I spray wash it! I say clean the underside and wipe it down with used auto trans fluid.

 

[Blakers]

Re: Blakers

Originally posted by Steve Campbell

what kind of oil do you use and how do you apply it?

When I've done it myself, I've used used hydraulic oil and applied it with a pressure pot paint sprayer. That's one made for putting latex on house walls - the air pushes down on the oil, forcing it out.



Lately though, I've taken it to a place that does this as a business. Some use used transmission fluid and the last place I went used drain oil with some kind of wax mixed in. Their "secret formula" - seems to work good though. They charge about $40 the first time and drill into strategic places like the doors, tailgate, rocker panels and put plastic plugs in the holes after spraying the oil in. The next time it is cheaper as they don't have to drill holes. They do a nice looking job and don't hurt anything on the truck.



Blake

 

[Pit Bull]

With my 2000 CTD I just cleaned it everytime I would wash it and every 6 months I would touch up the underside with a can of black enamal spray paint. Alway looked like new. I will do the samething with my new truck.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - good 'ol Rustoleum - either rattle can or brush... .



Ace Hardware... .

 

[drees1]

I second Gary's opinion. I have done several trucks, but not my dodge -yet, with the black rattle can. Just do a quick knock down with a wire brush or 50 grit paper to remove the loose stuff and then spray bomb. It took me 8 cans to do the underside of a rusy full size Bronco. Also did an F-250 ex cab. Both looked great and extended the life of the underside many years. touched up every 2 or 3 years. That was in Ohio salt.



Doug Rees

 

[BigBadDodge]

Yep I use the flat black rust-o-leum especily right before a show and shine



There is a local powder coat shop here in town though with great prices, I may pull some stuff apart this winter and get there exstream marine powder coating done.



BBD

 

[Blakers]

Powder coating

I've had some of the items I fabricate powder coated for years. There are several choices - the toughest being epoxy. Unfortunately the epoxy is not sunlight resistant - it will fade right off. The things I made had to be able to be out in the sun all day for years, so I used a urethane powder coat. There are also some hybrids that are combinations.



The main thing with powder coating is preparation. It must be perfectly clean with no old paint or rust. I even had new parts degreased and acid washed so the stuff would stick. Powder coat will cover and look nice on even oil-soaked steel - look at the new snowplows and lawn mower decks that look great for a year - then all the coating peals off in sheets because the steel was full of weld anti-spanner spray and they never bothered to clean it.



The other thing is the piece must be able to take the heat of the oven - around 600 deg F I think.



Good luck,

Blake

 

[jalberring]

http://www.por15.com/



Try this link. Their stuff looks pretty good, however, it is expensive.

 

[JTCHess]

Rust Proofing

Hey Blakers, we're neighbors, I'm from Fairview, although currently residing in Virginia as I am in the military. My family still lives in Fairview though and I sure would like to know who does the oil spray for you when you rust proof your truck. I plan on retiring there and dread the day I have to drive my cherry 93, D350, on salt covered roads. Plus I can steer my family this way to get their vehicles done.

thanks,

John

 

[tarussell]

POR 15

The POR 15 stuff is great ( VERY MESSY ) I am doing my axles with it. Just be sure to only get it on specific areas because it is almost permanent. Thomas

 

[Scot]

Eastwood sold a product called Corroless that is for this type of application. I shot some on my project frame and am amazed how tough it is. I used c-clamps while fabricating the mounts and it barely marred the paint. The label says to basically knock off the big chunks and paint it on. It likes/needs some rust to work properly.



I could not find it in the last catalog but there is something else in its place.