RV fridge problem

[DIESELNV]

I have a Dometic refridgerator thats about 4 years old. It has started to switch back and forth between gas and AC randomly when the trailer is pluged in. I have checked the converter and outlet that the fridge plugs into. Both are okay. Is there a sensor wire or anything someone knows about? I appreciate any help.

 

[DocStressor]

The dial switch is a notorious piece of junk. It tends to either fail to make a connection or shorts out between positions as you are experiencing. Without the extended warranty, replacing this item is not cheap.

 

[HBarlow]

I had a similar problem about three or four years ago. I called Dometic on their toll free number and found them very helpful. If my memory serves me, first they told me about an issue with grounding through the main control board on the back of the unit and sent me a new harness. It was installed and the problem was still present. I bought a new main control board (probably not the correct terminology), installed it, and the problem was corrected.



Harvey

 

[cwsoules]

Harvey has it right. I called the 800 number in my owners manual and they helped me trouble shoot my refrigerator. I boughtr the updated harness and control board and my frig works fine.

 

[georgej]

Here's a place that supplies some replacement parts for rv friges, however I have not purchased anything from them. It never hurts to have two prices on stuff.



http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/index.htm

 

[phoekema]

Bad circuit board - me too

I too had problems with a fridge of about the same vintage. Mine would work ok on ac, but would give check lights when using lp gas. After trying many things a new circuit board fixed the problem. They were aware that the circuit board had a 'bug' and furnished a harness along with the board.

Paul H

 

[Casey Balvert]

Things to check first

Before you go buy a new board, check the following:



Even though plugged in, the electronics run off 12 volts. Remove the fridge fuse from the trailer fuse panel. Check the 12 volt connection, clean them and spray with some tuner cleaner from Radio Shack, and reintall the wires into the junction block. Reinstall the fuse. Use a digital voltmeter to make your you have AT LEAST 12 volts there.



Turn off reefer and UNPLUG the AC. Remove the ciruit board cover and remove each connector. Spray a bit of tunner cleaner into the connectors and reinsert each connector onto the circuit board. Make sure the fuses are tight in their holders. Replace the cover.



Just to the right of the board assembly is a small stud on the chassis with several wires that are grounded. Remove the nut, clean each eye connector, spray with a bit of tuner cleaner and reassemble, making sure the nut is reasonably tight.



Plug the unit back in and check the operation of the fridge. I have fixed a lot of fridges with this simple procedure. I now do this during my spring maintenance on mine each year. No problems after 6 years.



If you still have problems, the circuit board may be shot. I recommend the Dinosaur boards as a replacement.



Good luck.



Casey

 

[phoekema]

good idea

I agree with Casey and kind of assumed (ass u me = makes an a#$ of you and me!) the connections etc had been checked. I was a field engineer for about 20 years with Burroughs (now Unisys) and work on computers when there were no mother boards, but backplanes. The processing section was made up of many individual circuit boards which plugged into this backplane. When we had a strange problem, especially intermittant ones, we would start by pulling each individual circuit board, buffing the connectors on the boards with usually a pencil eraser, and then re-inserting the boards. This procedure along with checking and tightening all connectors would very often fix the problem. When troubleshooting electronic problems this has become a first step with me - no sense replacing a board if a poor connection is at fault.

Paul