RV values

[GAmes]

The year my AF was built, all of the 5vers had 1/3 of GVWR as carrying capacity per the dry weight of the 5ver, in my case, the dry weight is 10,050 lbs and the net carrying capacity is 4950 lbs. The net carrying capacity is 1/3 of the total, and I looked through the brochure which all of them were at 1/3."

Northwood is worse now. My GVWR is 11,500, the carrying capacity (according to the brochure) is 4265........37%. Totally a bogus number. 3160 is 27%, a much more realistic number, and happily more than I load up.

 

[Killgore]

I kept the 15" wheels because of the cost to move up to 16", about $750. I did the next best thing; plenty of research, bought Maxxis M-8008's, and run the TST-TPMS. Regardless of ST or LT tires, get a monitor. It will be the best money (insurance) you can spend. When on the road, I monitor both the truck and camper. Prices have come down since they've been out for awhile and you can find the system quite reasonable.

- Ed

 

[RustyJC]

I kept the 15" wheels because of the cost to move up to 16", about $750.

Cost to repair an RV after a tread separation - $1000 (1996 Jayco Designer 3030RKSS - Goodyear Marathon) to $2500 (2004 Mobile Suites 36RE3 - Goodyear G614RST).

Rusty

 

[Killgore]

Yep, was aware of that hence I bought the monitor and the Maxxis tires. Chinese Bombs (which include Goodyear Marathons) scare the heck out of me, especially running at night when you're flying blind. I have had three fast low-pressure alarms (not blow-outs); two on the truck and one on the camper. I was able to get off the interstate and pick a safe place to change tires all three times thanks to the monitor. Is it the best compromise? If I was buying a new camper, I would insist on 16" wheels and LT tires that were at least E-rated as far as my load limit. I think it is criminal for a camper manufacturer to put tires on a new camper that are maxed out when fully loaded with the only safety factor being the tongue weight or pin weight.

- Ed

 

[Killgore]

JR, my apologies for hijacking the thread. How did you come out this weekend?

- Ed

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Ed said: "I think it is criminal for a camper manufacturer to put tires on a new camper that are maxed out when fully loaded with the only safety factor being the tongue weight or pin weight."

I remember learning this when I bought my first trailer and was amazed that this is the common practice in the RV industry. I second the comment by RVTRKN - if you cannot go to 16" wheels and tires then keep looking. I think you'll find something within your budget including the cost of updating the running gear.

One other thing occurred to me - I forgot to factor in how quickly the kids grow. What fits the kids great this year may well not fit them in a year or two. This is why I ended up getting another trailer.

 

[KATOOM]

I kept the 15" wheels because of the cost to move up to 16", about $750. I did the next best thing; plenty of research, bought Maxxis M-8008's, and run the TST-TPMS. Regardless of ST or LT tires, get a monitor. It will be the best money (insurance) you can spend. When on the road, I monitor both the truck and camper. Prices have come down since they've been out for awhile and you can find the system quite reasonable.

- Ed

Cant agree with this more. Except when I was considering changing to 16" tires and wheels, because I have aluminum wheels and three axles, I found that it was going to cost me over $2000.

 

[Killgore]

Tires, load ratings, wheel ratings, axle ratings, drum brakes, etc. all point to a max speed of 65MPH, but just try and pull through some place like Houston at 65 without getting run over. If I was a manufacturer I would insist that a prospective new engineer before being hired have been a camper with time spent behind the wheel. There's nothing like a 'white-knuckle' experience to make you do some serious redesigning of components.

- Ed

 

[JR]

There is no such thing as hijacking in my book, good discussion promotes more good discussion and I am all for that

The camper was pretty much as described. It is very clean inside, owned by a couple in their early 60's and only used a weekend or two a month during the summers. What scares me is (and as I suspected) this camper has been set up as a park model essentially. I asked him how long it had been sitting and he guesstimated 4 years, I'm guessing longer than that by the looks of things. Roof has mold growing on it and tires will definitely need replaced. No sign of leaks anywhere and all appliances work.

I told him we would think about it and get back to him. I think he's asking a fair price yet I am still a little leary about buying it, mostly due to the length of time it has been sitting OUTSiDE. We get some bad weather here with lots of freeze and thaw cycles. Can't be good for a camper.

The good thing is we live in close proximity to several Campgrounds and there seems to be quite a selection of used RVs locally. So for now I think we are still looking. More to come, I'm sure

 

[mwilson]

Did you try the fridge on propane only??? You would have to turn the AC breaker off in the camper panel for that test as it still needs the 12v to operate the propane controls. I am assuming that there is no battery currently on board.

Also checked out a similar unit while on lunch, I see that it has siding. Sight down both sides and look for bulges. Can be a simple as a few staples missed the studs while being built or major like the wood has rotted and allowed the staples to rust off or pull out of the studs.

Green on roof, will wash off.

Does it have the one piece rubber roof??? If you purchase any unit with a rubber roof be aware that only certain cleaners and caulking / sealants can be used.

I have had to reseal the forward edge of my roof where it meets the nose cap twice in 10 years, just did it for the second time two weekends ago. No big deal. Some Butyl tape, a couple tubes of DiCor self leveling lap sealer and an afternoon's worth of labor brought it back to showroom shape.

If you can keep the water out a unit will last a long time.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

JR,

The first camper we bought was at a seasonal site stored outside for around ten years here in northwestern PA. The determining factor is whether or not water has been kept out, as pointed out above. As Mr. Wilson pointed out, roof is not a big deal, and you most likely need to address running gear on anything you find.

 

[GAmes]

Tires, load ratings, wheel ratings, axle ratings, drum brakes, etc. all point to a max speed of 65MPH, but just try and pull through some place like Houston at 65 without getting run over.

I get a good laugh from statements like that. The only time I exceed 60 pulling a trailer is in OK or LA when the granny lane condition forces me into the hammer lane. Then I speed up to the road's speed limit. Even in west TX where the speed limit is 85 you will see me saving fuel at 57mph. I haven't been run over yet and I've logged over a half million paid miles pulling trailers, and have pulled my own a couple hundred thousand.

Regarding insisting on 16" tires, good luck with that. I just bought a new 5er from Northwood. Ordered it with all the options we wanted from the available list. 16 inch tires are not available and neither was 50 amp service, which we also would have liked. The up side is the wheels are 6 lug, so finding 16 inch replacement wheels will be easy. I'll mount the last set of Michelins that I have from my truck, and all 12 tires will be the same size.

 

[Killgore]

Forty years ago when I sat behind the big wheel pulling 40,000 lbs of copper chloride from Georgia to Victoria, TX, every two weeks, I would put my leather driving gloves on, get in the far left lane, and fall in with the rice haulers running 75MPH coming through Houston. I, too, laughed at the silver-haired old men pulling their campers with their wives sitting in the floorboards praying. Now, I'm one of the old silver-haired men and the thrill is gone.

- Ed

 

[JR]

Mike I didn't think about the propane functions until after we left. I brought the checklist with me that Jim posted and had good intentions on using it but left it in the truck when I pulled in and noticed how permanent of a residence it had taken up. If I decide to have another look I will take the list with me, there are several items I did not go through that are on there. You are right in the sense that mold and moss will wash off but it is to the point it prevented me from being able to thoroughly inspect the roof which was another turn off. I hinted that he may want to think about having the top washed down but he dismissed it pretty quickly so I just dropped it.
I do like the unit, its got a good bit of storage inside and out, am ok with the floor plan and has been well kept on the inside. It's the things I'm not so fsmilair with that make me hesitant. Wish I knew someone well versed in this subject but nobody in the family or close circle of friends owns one so I am winging this one on my own.

Edit: yes it is a rubber roof.

 

[mwilson]

The rubber roofs should be washed at least once a year. With that being said the one you are looking at is going to be a ***** to clean. Don't want anything that you care about next to it because it is going to shed some white stuff. The first year that we did ours some of the run off hit the entry door to the garage which is a dull red color. The resulting white streaks would not come off of that door and the wife had to repaint it.
We do ours at least once a year, twice if time permits. We have found the easiest way is to wash the sides first, then do the roof, then wash the sides again.

Some people never wash the roof, but I can't stand that icky black residue all over it.

 

[mwilson]

There have been discussions on here in the past regarding using the propane fridge function while under way.

I do, every trip. If it blows out it will relight itself.

The best thing to keep an RV fridge happy is for it to be LEVEL when parked and operating.....a little jiggling while under way is good for them as well.

So the propane function would be very important to me if shopping. The modern propane RV systems require 12 volt for controls so a decent battery while under tow is a must.

Walked into ours last Saturday morning and it was kinda' warm. Turned the thermostat up and down, could hear the A/C relay in the overhead respond with the thermostat but no action. Hmmmmm, wife just made breakfast and I bet she used the toaster and microwave about the time that the A/C tried to come on. Sure enough, breaker in the trailer panel tripped. But it takes both systems for everything to work correctly.