?'s about starting a stand-alone engine

[GOODE11]

Guys need some help here.

We have a 1st gen 5. 9 complete engine and cooling system w/ out computer and wiring harness on a rolling chasis and need to get it started.

We've primed it to the injectors and seem to have enough fuel for it to fire but it won't.

Does anyone know what conections need voltage on the injector pump beside the fuel solenoid?

BTW- we thought the injectors were gummed up so we replaced 3 thinking it would fire at least a couple cylinders, but it didn't.



Any ideas how to make it fire up?



Thanks for the help

 

[ARhine]

only electrical needed to run is the fuel selenoid.

 

[GOODE11]

Any idea how many amps it takes to open it fully?

We had it hooked strait to the battery, getting fuel at the injectors but can't get it to fire. We also shot a little ether in it and it fired and died. I'm at a loss.

Anybody have any suggestions as to the problem?



Thanks for the quick reply

 

[guava]

Amps to the solenoid is minimal. Direct to battery works. You can remove the plunger if your worried about it.



What about the 'boost assist/fuel pressure assist' thing. (bottom of pump) I'm just guessing but my limited understanding is it gives a little added fuel pressure when starting and then shuts down. I'll be watching to see what works and add to my knowledge...

 

[1stgen4evr]

If you are getting fuel at the injectors and still no running, you have a timing problem. If the engine was running and just won't fire up since removal, you are getting air into the system from somewhere. Rig something of a gravity flow supply to assure that you have positive fuel flow to the pump. Make certain that the fuel is flowing through the filter and to the intake of the injector pump. Then spin it some. Don't kill the starter. If the engine has been sitting for a while, something has dried out and letting air get into the pump. The gravity flow should show what that is. There could also be something stuck in the pump, at least I have seen that on American Bosch pumps.



Good luck.



James

 

[Moab4x4]

10V to open fuel solenoid but only 6-7V to keep it open.

Amps I don't know exactly, but not much. I drove 90 miles (2 hours) on just the battery once. I was down to 8 V by the time I got home. Cheap small battery in it when I bought the truck.

Also you should be able to hear/feel the click as the solenoid opens.



Good Luck starting the engine!

 

[GOODE11]

Thanks for the replies.

We have good fuel flow from the lift pump to the bleed screw above the filter(no air). Also have decent flow from the inj. pump to heads of the injectors(spitt'in good fuel). Everything is primed, it just won't fire off, even w/ 3 clean injectors from another set. Strange to me, got a problem somewhere.



I will try the gravity flow idea and see what happens.



Keep the ideas coming, I need to get it going this weekend.



Thanks again.

 

[Greenleaf]

I have never heard the fuel solenoid give any sort of audible click. Even on/during a bech test.



Just because there is fuel at the nozzle line when you have the line loose... ... ... ... ... . does not, in any way, tell you if the injection pump is producing enough pressure/flow to unseat a nozzle.



I have had/seen a bad injection pump that only makes enough psi to squirt fuel out the line connection and not unseat a nozzle.



GL

 

[GOODE11]

Played with it an hour or so this AM and this is what we've came to:



1. Timing off(but should have smoke, we don't)

2. Pump not making pressure to satisfy injector pop off pressures. As Greenleaf said.

(no fuel, no smoke)



So #2 seems the most reasonable. But I have not ruled out the fuel solenoid, it opens on the bench, but what about on the truck? Might yank it apart and see what happens. I bring this up b/c fuel delivery is the same w/ or w/o voltage to it. Just so I'm not confused the fuel solenoid is along the side of the pump, perpendicular to the gear case, correct?



Thanks for you help guys! The motor only has 112,000miles on it so I really want to get it rolling.



Goode

 

[GOODE11]

Mixup on my part, fuel solenoid is on the back side of the pump, right? Not the bottom.

 

[1stgen4evr]

on/off solonoid

The KSB solonoid is on the side of the pump. The on off is at the upper rear of the pump. It is about as big around as a quarter and sticks out of the pump roughly an inch. There was a picture posted of one not too long ago.



The KSB is fastened on the pump, the on off is screwed into the pump. The on off is in a very difficult spot to get a wrench on. The wrench size is (from memory) 15/16.



I am particularly interested in what you find as I have an engine that has balked. I have been working on diesels for many years and have tried all the things I know. Even made it run with ether. I would discourage doing this unless you have MUCH experience. It makes all the right sounds but won't fire up. I hope that I don't have to pull the pump but that is next.



After you are sure that you are dealing with the ON OFF solonoid, the next question I would ask of GL. What was wrong with the pumps that would not build injection presure.



James

 

[GOODE11]

Hey guys,



Got it running late Sat. The fuel solenoid would open on the bench but not installed, so as was recommended I pulled the plunger and it fired up w/in a couple seconds. Runs great after a year of sitting.

Thanks to all that responded and if the deal falls through I'll have a complete rig for sale minus the body('93 4X4 115,000miles).