Here I am

S. MI Dyno day

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What happened to the GLTDR ?

Mopar Nats

This is totally unrelated, but anyone know how to resize photos for upload to my rigs gallery? I have a few pic's I'd like to put in there, but, I'm an idiot. I have a great Sony camera, takes great pic's, just too darn big to upload, even on 1. 5 - 2. 0 megapixels. I know this isn't the place to ask, but you all want to see my rig's don't you? And the new 2 wheeler, right? help me out? It's worth another case of beer in the pot come May! I have the standard Image transfer program from Sony and I don't find any way to resize pictures in there.



On a nother note, Sounds like Greg might come down from Holly in May!



Curtis, as the days draw nearer, I'll know when I'll be coming down, just say the word and I bring whatever you need to fill the voids, food, beverages, etc.



Thanks, Kevin
 
hey guys,



yep im still around, i just havent had anything to say. i plan on being there. dont think ill have my converter in by then. the vp44 is going to have to be done first. anybody know who has the best price on them? local diesel injection shop wants 1150 my cost. plust 400 core. ouch! hell of a way to spend my tax refund. i did just cut my muffler off. now its 4 inch from resonater back. if i can bring anything let me know. mark
 
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wtfd6,

I know at one time VP44's could be had for $995. I think $1095 is pretty common for a reman now though.



I will try to remember to do a little digging on that one again to see what I can come up with.



Edit: Here is one for $1095 http://www.usdieselparts.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=157833



Edit again: Here is $1075 http://www.metrosvc.com/



I guess these guys are a pretty good price but you will need to call to find out because they do not list pricing on their site. http://cumminsstuff.com/
 
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Check the parts for sale on tdr. I believe i saw a HRVP44 for like 900 and some change. Not sure though. Good Luck with it. You changing it yourself ??



Kevin thanks again for the volunteer on bringing supplies. I'll let everyone know.

If there is anything that someone is best at making, let us know, and we can start planning on who is bringing what.



John you're not selling that beast are you ??



Later

Curtis
 
i did just cut my muffler off. now its 4 inch from resonater back. if i can bring anything let me know. mark

Yep another chunk of pipe and sawzall to take out the resonater!! :-laf



curtis glad to see ya back around, we got worried.



KW

rightclick on the pic and then "resize photo" and typ in "400" and it should automatically come up to 632?(or close to it) in the second box (L&W not percentage or total file size) If its a . jpeg it will work if its . bmp you'll fight to get the right size SO its real easy to change the . bmp to . jpeg just to to PAINT open the pick then "save as" and under the file name save it as a . jpeg



easy stuff once you get used to it



Do any of you guys know if the 03 trackbar is solid or what size tubing is used? Im thinking of making my own... It cant be hard as long as the bar is solid enough to thread. (ball joints are on the list of "to do" so leveling kit and 03 upgrade go on as well then allignment)





Ian
 
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ian, i would use some d. o. m. tubing for it. thats what i planned on doing to my trucks with 3/4x5/8 hiem joints. i was going to use 1. 25" with a . 120 wall steel (i think it was) if you get the right size steel you can tap it for a joint or just weld on a tube for a poly bushing.







matt
 
yep, i will be putting it on myself. i have plenty of knowledge when it comes to cars and light trucks. i will always be learning though, especially when it comes to my ctd. thanks again everyone for the information. mark
 
Mark,

I purchased a barring tool just in case, and did fine with turning the motor over with the alternator (23mm or 24mm socket). The Cummins tech gave me a fly-by on how the change the VP using their showroom model for visuals. He also told me the barring tool was a waste and a total PITA to use. However it is the only way to turn the motor over clockwise by hand. PM me if you would like me to send you the tool, just in case...
 
You guys got worried, yeah right.



Ian have fun on them thar ball joints. I have to do them on dads truck before next winter :( Not a bad job, just not fun either.



Well the other day i tried to time my truck, and did not succeed (due to time limitations, and F*'ed up directions) Called Greg, he set me straight, so i now have TDC marked and just need to find time to double check TDC and then set pump timing.



Ian have you checked www.LukesLink.com ?? In the TDR mag, their article says they are 66 ea. , or 4 for 55 ea. I would like to order 1, and if we can sell the other 2 would you like to go in get the 4 for the discounted price ? ANY TAKERS ??



C-Ya guys

Curtis
 
what was your timing at curtis? did you just have problems locating tdc? i am guessing your pin is broke to locate tdc. if i had a transmission worth a crap yet i would come down and try and give a helping hand, but then again, i remember the porta-john remark :-laf the bad thing is my girlfriend agreed to help :( the trucks getting a manual transmission this week and im done with it.





matt
 
thanks rock, but i have one. i have slowly been building my set of ctd tools. there is nothing like having a lot of tools, then starting to learn diesel and need a bunch more. i think the set from snapon was only like 750 anyway. i only bought enough to do my nozzles and that is it. thanks again, mark
 
I had a horrible time trying to locate TDC with the timing pin. I called Greg, and done it his way and was finished locating TDC within 20 minutes. That is as far as i have got so far. I went as far as pulling the front cover off the engine to see if i could see the hole in the cam gear that the pin locks into. Didn't Work. O-well. I now have to make sure i located TDC once again and then set the timing.



Thanks for the offer, i'll see if i can git-er dun.



Curtis
 
When using the timing pin I have found it best to pull the pin out completely and remove the O-Ring and then reinstall it. It makes using the pin much easier.



The timing pin it not always 100% accurate anyway. The drop valve method is, if done properly, and it is pretty easy too.



On the trucks with hydro-boost brakes using the pin is a PIA because the PS lines are in the way so I would suggest the drop valve method on those trucks anyway.
 
good to hear you are on track now curtis. lets get that thing to about 23* with a stoopid pump and some twins Oo. when you get your tdc located make sure you mark it good with a paint pen, it will help with future mods, i helped a gentleman that had his marked and it only took a few mins to do it, like a breeze. what are you looking to set your timing too? about 15*?





matt
 
Looking to set timing at about 15. 5

I am using the drop valve method, and even then it is not accurate at all. I am going one step further on the drop valve method from Greg.

You have to find approximate TDC (with #1 VC off) then back off about 3 to 4 full turns of the Barring tool. Tighten #1 EX. valve about 2. 5 turns.

This is where i think i'll make it 1 step better. Install a Dial indicator on the rocker tip. When the piston meets the valve push about . 010 past zero (wont hurt anything, Cummins uses hydraulic lifters right ??, even if not theres enough give within the valvetrain right?) then mark crankshaft, Turn engine opposite until piston comes in contact with #1Ex. Valve again. Push to . 010 again, and mark crank again. Measure exactly between the 2 marks, and mark again. That is true (as true as true can be) TDC.

Then set pump timing according.

Tell me what you guys think, or am i trying to set TDC too close ??? Working too hard ??



Thanks Guys

Curtis
 
Just Read about us on DynoServe. Very Nice, i'm sure they read this quite often with anticipation of April 20th, when i will follow up with the nice folks at DynoServe. After our follow up with them, i will work out the finals.

1) Dyno Time (both start and finish of both Sat, and Sun)

2) How their yard looks. Don't want some of our 30' campers sinking.

3) Grills, cookouts, Electric, maybe a water hookup (simple garden hose)

4) See how their neighbors will react to all the TDR smoke/noise (none of our trucks are very loud... . are they ???LOL) If their neighbors are interrested, we're open for chat.

5) See if they'll sponsor the farthest driven TDR member (over lets say 150 miles to get here) Sponsor could be a totally free run, or even half off!!



HOW MANY PLAN TO RUN THE ROLLERS??? Need to know!! I may or may not, depends on certain parts.



Thanks

Curtis
 
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