Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ??s on pusher fuel pump

[jgraber]

With all the talk of lift pump failure, is this the best solution, and what do I do? Are you guys just using a universal in-line fuel pump and splicing it in near the gas tank? Is this just any universal fuel pump that I can get at Checker or NAPA? Any other concerns? Thanks for the help!

 

[mikel]

There are a bunch of pumps out there that people are using with varying degrees of success. I am running a carter pump that I got from NAPA and have 20k+ on it with no problems. This pump is pretty much a lower pressure, but higher volume copy of the one already on the truck. I stuck it back by the tank and now both the pusher and the stock pumps run at the same time as I used the power line feeding the stock pump to trigger the relay that runs my pusher pump.



Now that I have gone and bragged on my pump it'll be dead this afternoon when I want to leave and go home...



I'll get you the part number tonight if you want it, but I don't have it with me here at the office.



First thing you need is a fuel pressure gauge though. You'll never know what's going on without the proper instrumentation. I currently run 18 psi at idle and haven't seen below 9psi at WOT.



I don't think that this setup will keep up with a highly BOMBed truck, so if you're looking for 500+hp then you'll definitely need something else. If you don't intend to go beyond something like DD/BDII's and a low-end box like the EZ then I think what I have done would work fine.



Hope this helps.



Mike

 

[snowracer69]

Mike,



I'd appreciate the part number from Napa for that pump. I'm going to be adding a pusher soon... those darn DD3's and PE Comp sure suck my pressure down (although w/ Comp on 5x5 now I have more pressure than before I put the 3's in... weird, huh?)



Thanks, Josh

 

[CstlEng]

jgraber,



I had some luck with a carter P4601HP. This one is very similar to the Cummins pump. It probably is not as HD as the cummins replacement, but as a pusher should be ok. I say some luck because I only got 20k out of it before it crapped out. Now I run a second cummins pump back there. the cummins is a little over 2 times the price of the carter (about $85 from jegs). Only have 25 k on the new cummins... will see what happens. Someone had even better luck with a holly, I think. The best money you can spend is gauges, pre and post each pump or filter. You can then pinpoint if a problem is a pump or filter, without question. some say overkill. at around $20 for a fuel filter, it doesn't take long to pay for an extra gauge if it saves throwing out a clean filter when a pump is actually what is going south and the filter is always where you start troubleshooting. don't underestimate the value of your time and peace of mind.



Brian

 

[Smokewagon]

I agree with you guys

but... ..... I learned the hard way that it doesn't make any difference how much pressure you have if you can't get it there.

The banjo bolts and line from/to pump is tiny. I would definately get larger ones and replace the small line. Remember what has more pressure? You or your little boy? But,... ... . Look who's flowin' the most liquid. (Size does matter)



Dave

 

[mikel]

Ok, the NAPA # on the pump I'm running is P4070



Also, as Smokewagon pointed out the larger banjo bolts probably help. I got mine from Genos.



Mike

 

[overfueled]

jgraber



I run dual Carter P4601HP 12lb lift / P4600HP 7lb pusher pump, #6AN SS 3/8 Lines from the tank to the VP-44. I got 11 months on the first set of carters before they went south. I am working on the 2nd set. I would not say this is the way to go.



Blue chip has come up with a nice looking single pump with bypass and a regulator to 12lbs so far they have had much better luck than I.



I took a look inside to find out just what went bad, to my surprises I found out. It was not the motor, or the rotor vain (the pump). It was the nylon bushing that connects the two shafts between them. The motor had more than enough power to rotate the shaft.



Where I think the problem lies is in the viscosity of diesel at –10 deg F. it appeared to be to much for that bushing and the slot wore out at less than 12,000 miles and would no longer engage the shaft to rotate the pump.



If this failed once with the same bushing it will again.

OverFuled

 

[ralphr]

pusher addition

has anyone also added an additional fuel/water separator in front od the new pusher pump. prehaps some of the problems wev'e been seeing is from some "bad" fuel (particles, water, sludge, etc. ) fowling the pump(s)???? We have an excellant fuel filter but it is after the lift pump and is there just for the injector pump. just a thought prehaps someone could chime in hear????

 

[RADdodge]

Racor Fuel Filter

I use a Racor fuel filter in front of the pusher pump. The spin on filters vary in throughput capacity from 45ghp to 90. I use the short 45gph. It is also available with WIF sensor and heater. I also use a Racor gauge for the WIF sensor and clogged filter detection.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

To each his own - I use a Carter HP4600 from jegs at $72...



Go to:



www.jegs.com



and search on carter fuel pumps.



One of the smaller, cheaper ones they sell would probably work equally well - I've been using one of the smaller Carter pumps as a fuel transfer pump from my auxilliary fuel tank for well over 10 years with no problems to date - same type pump!



Here's a picture of the assembly I made up with the recommended filtering ahead of the pump, and a valved bypass arrangement to reduce head pressure on the added pump, and provide a bypass fuel flow route in case it fails, so the stock pump will continue to be able to pull fuel - the reduced head pressure provided by the bypass SHOULD reduce strain and failure of the added pusher as experienced by the fella above, since it doesn't have to work as hard:



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Here it is installed on the frame rail back next to the fuel tank:



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This setup delivers 22 psi at idle, 20 psi at freeway cruise, and 18 psi with the Comp on 5x5 pulling our 5er up a Sierra grade at 60+ mph. Shutting down the added pusher still allows the stock LP to deliver 15 psi to the Cummins at idle - all pressures taken off the Shrader valve right at the VP-44, and with all stock fuel lines...



As far as I'm concerned, bigger pumps and larger fuel lines are overkill for anything but extreme power levels, and if pumps like the above aren't over-stressed from too much pressure demand, they SHOULD last a very long time...

 

[BillGotthelf]

Gary-nice setup. How did you power it-through a relay or a switched 20A source? I have 2 switched legs left on my 7 fuse panel from Geno's. Can't figure what I'm gonna do with 3 hot ones yet.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I use a Radio Shack relay with 10 amp contacts - it's mounted to the firewall in the engine compartment... It's a plug-in setup - makes it easy to disable the pusher for troubleshooting or checking...



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