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?s on synthetic oil change over

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HELP ! geno's brass drain plug snaps inside my oil pan !

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In about 5,000 miles I want to change over the engine from dino to synhetic and I have a few questions about the process.

1. do i need to flush the enigne

2. should i stay with the same change interval as the dino

3. if i extend the change interval where would i find an oil testing place in town

4. what is your opinon on rp 15w40 ( was a gift from a racing buddy)

5. if i extend the oil change interval, when should i change the filter (fleetguard)

Thanks guys with any help with my questions your help is most appriciated. Corey :D :D
 
I have heard it recommended, and have followed the practice of, adding 1 qt (per 6) of synthetic to dino and running it 500 to 1000 miles before changing to sythetic. The thought is that the synthetic is so much higher in detergent that the sudden switch will immediately contaminate the new oil. I think I actually read this on a Mobil 1 bottle.



I can't help much with your other questions.
 
Thanks DougJones, I have switched 3 cars before from dino to synthetic with just a engine flush and then the synthetic oil and they seem to be doing fine, no leaking, or anything. I have heard about the mixing of th oils for a while and such but the problem is that our trucks use 12 quarts of oil :D :D :D and that can get very expensive. :( :(
 
I truely believe in the synthetic oils, I have been useing them for over twenty years and have never once been sorry. There added protection from loss of friction and cooler running has been documented over and over, they are great.

I like to wait till the engine is fully broken-in, and at your 5000 mile mark you should be just fine. It you tow, it would be great to hook up and go for a small trip, that extra load really settles things in. I do not know how much you drive a year, but this is what I do. I change the oil in the spring and fall, and then between periods at 1500-2000 mile intervals I replace oil filters and top off. I have it down to a science, it takes less then 5 minuets to change the filter and top off the oil. I also do this same procedure of all of our outher vehicles, diesel or gas, they all get AMSOIL and they all get the same treatment.
 
break in

y-knot said:
I truely believe in the synthetic oils, I have been useing them for over twenty years and have never once been sorry. There added protection from loss of friction and cooler running has been documented over and over, they are great.

I like to wait till the engine is fully broken-in, and at your 5000 mile mark you should be just fine. It you tow, it would be great to hook up and go for a small trip, that extra load really settles things in. I do not know how much you drive a year, but this is what I do. I change the oil in the spring and fall, and then between periods at 1500-2000 mile intervals I replace oil filters and top off. I have it down to a science, it takes less then 5 minuets to change the filter and top off the oil. I also do this same procedure of all of our outher vehicles, diesel or gas, they all get AMSOIL and they all get the same treatment.

I agree with the oil deal but if you want to do it on a broke in engine then I personally would wait well past 5000mi. I have 13000 mi. on mine and I would,judging by performanceand mpg,say mine didn't settle in to about 11-12000 mi. If you haven't pulled heavy for a few thousand mi. then I doubt that you are broke in. Food for thought!
 
I would definitely wait until 15-20K miles before switching. Use the Amsoil engine flush per the instructions. Then use whatever synthetic you wish. I used the RP last winter for 10K miles with no problems and a much quieter running engine when the temps were low.



I plan on changing everything over to non-OEM synthetic the 2nd day I have the new truck except the engine oil until I get to 15K miles on it.
 
DougJones said:
I have heard it recommended, and have followed the practice of, adding 1 qt (per 6) of synthetic to dino and running it 500 to 1000 miles before changing to sythetic. The thought is that the synthetic is so much higher in detergent that the sudden switch will immediately contaminate the new oil. I think I actually read this on a Mobil 1 bottle.



I can't help much with your other questions.



Not necessary to do the 1 quart thing as suggested above and not recommended by the oil makers such as Royal Purple. I work for RP and also have 325K+ experience with the RP 15W40 in Cummins engines in my personal trucks. We address this on our FAQ section on our website as well as an email for tech questions. Or email me on my personal email at -- email address removed --.



The Cummins will take between 10,000 and 20,000 to scuff the rings. I changed my 96 215 hp / 440 at 5000 and 9 years later it is still in excellent condition. No need to flush the engine as well. Use an Engine Flush to correct a 'known' problem. Using an engine flush when you do not need to is a waste of money, time, and can cause or lead to problems associated with the flush or flushing procedure. Hey, how do you get the flush out of the engine? Todays motor oils are fully compatible and in a mechanically sound and clean engine, jsut perform a simple oil change and oil filter change. The small residual engine oil left in the engine is not a concern to the next engine oil going in.



Cheers,



RedRam
 
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I agree with Redman. When doing a flush the crap goes down to the oil pan,the engine has to be running and this crap then get's picked by the pickup and plugs up the screen. The only way to get it clean is to remove the pan to get at it.
 
I have been associated with synthetic oil changes in many vehicles during the past 24 years, and if your engine is NOT consuming any oil, the rings are seated, and you can install any synthetic you wish! I would suggest you go with a group 4 or 5 synthetic to get the best performance for your $'s. If you go with one of these synthetics, you can safely extend the oil drain interval by 2-3 times.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
First of All,the two groups of SYN MO out there are : Group III (highly refined/hydrocracked Dino) and Group IV PAO. The later being a true synthetic to us old timers.



Change over to a synthetic should be done after break in and you should not use an engine flush.



Use a name brand product that is easy to obtain. You can purchase oil analysis from a truck dealer or oil jobber. The results will be very useful over time as a trend analysis is the proper way to set drain intervals.
 
Just change the cotton- :-laf pickin oil and don't get all bothered about contaminating. Bourbon contaminates coke, but you don't see anyone complaining!
 
jsimpson said:
Just change the cotton- :-laf pickin oil and don't get all bothered about contaminating. Bourbon contaminates coke, but you don't see anyone complaining!

I must tell you that you put a smile on face with that one! Thanks ,I needed that.
 
So, for all of you Amsoil folks out there, when you change the oil filters do you use the AMsoil filter or will a fleetguard work just fine? Just getting ready to make the switch to Amsoil and want to get my ducks in a row.
 
jsimpson said:
I use Fleetguard. I believe Amsoil filters are made by Hastings.

Yes, the Amsoil FULL-FLOW Filter is made by "Hastings" to the Amsoil Spcifications. Amsoil "BY-PASS" Filters are made by Amsoil Inc.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
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