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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Safe Sustainable EGT'S ??

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need Opinions

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jjdiesel

TDR MEMBER
Say you're pulling your trailer up a real honkin' hill... . takes 6, 7, 8 minutes to climb, gauge reads a steady 1100*... is that hard on the engine or totally safe? Where does it become a concern 1200, 1300..... ??
 
Where's your probe?

That's the big question. If you are pre-turbo you are just fine. If you are post turbo, you have a problem. You don't want to exceed 1300 F pre-turbo for to long of a period of time. (I've also heard 1350). There is a 250-300 degree drop off pre to post turbo. Do the math and downshift for your engine's sake. :)
 
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I've always been told (by several performance shops) that 1300 is the peak for shorter periods of time (minute or so), 1200 for extended periods (your 6-8 minute climb for example) - as was said above those numbers are from a PRE-TURBO pyro. When I have my trailer behind me I try to stay below 1200 except while passing and then I'll run it up to 1300 or so.
 
If you did any studying of Bruce Mallison's write ups (Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh) you would see that retarded timing (i. e fuel entering the cylinder later) help the longevity of these trucks. This is because most, but not all melted pistons, start as a hair line fracture at the wrist pin. This fracture then draws the heat. Sooner or later you have a melted piston. Once an engine reaches a certain temp, the fuel ingnites more easily. At a given point inthe engine, the fuel will ignite before the piston actually get's to TDC, if the timing is too advanced. They do this because federal emissions laws force them to tune the engine this way (less smoke). The engine is fine in a stock format with this timing. Once you start adding fuel, there is a limit that is reached where you start to "SLAP" the piston with the ignition of the fuel. This puts stress on the wrist pin, which in turn causes piston failure. I trust Bruce's word on this, as I only one day to have as much knowledge, and experience as he does with these engines.



Be that said. Keep the pyro below 1200 for preturbo apps for extended runs if you want to stay safe.



May the flaming commence.....
 
Looking at my post above I see I forgot to ask the critical question:



"I need my truck to pull, and if it can be damaged just by keeping foot in it going up a long grade or pulling a heavy load up a shorter grade for a few minutes that ain't gonna cut it. "



Clearly gauges are step one. But what is the biggest bang for the buck for keeping EGTs down, other than keeping one's foot out of the pump?



Thanks,
 
Mike,

I see from your sig. that you're stock. From what I can see here most of the high EGT readings are coming from modified trucks. Either fueling boxs or injecters. I think it's a good idea to have a pyrometer just to moniter the engine, but then I'm used to having lots of engine information at work.

I'll be installing my pyro. in a week or so and I'm curious to see what kind of readings I get. I haven't had a chance to tow anything yet.
 
Mike, EGT's are of no concern if you're stock. That's why the stock rigs don't have pyros. I know what you mean about the shutting 'em right down thing. This will definitly shorten the life of the turbo but most folks trade off their trucks at around 100,000 miles, well before these trucks are anywhere near the end of the line so it doesn't wind up affecting them. Once you start bombing, you need to be concerned about egts, otherwise don't sweat 'em. If you're pulling or just coming off the highway, let her idle for about 30 seconds and you'll be fine and your truck will thank you in the long run. If your just idling around town you can shut it right off. Hope this helps.
 
I think one could do some damage even to a stock set-up... . although perhaps it would'nt be too easy. If you're at some altitude and have to keep the thing floored to get up a long grade without any idea of EGT's, you might run some risk. The gauges are a must! What number (degrees) one would have to be at for a sustained period is the question... the reason for the thread. Steve and Doug both have some good input... it seems 1100 to 1200 sustained is O. K.
 
I am strictly stock, except for a K&n air filter. I have a pyro. mounted post turbo and I tow a 12K fiver. On ANY substantial pull,i. e. 6% or so, my EGTs will go to 1100 degrees in a couple minutes!!!!!!!

So, because I am stock, power wise, do I not have to worry about those EGTs?

Actually I have rarely failed to keep track of them and back off as I go over 900 degrees, but on a few occasions I have not been quick enough to notice the EGTs, and it scares me to look down and see them up around 1100; and for the first long trip with the truck, I did not have the gauges and wonder what EGTs I might have had.



Vaughn
 
Originally posted by danandme

... EGT's are of no concern if you're stock...



I’ve read some other posts that contradict this. I’ll know for sure in a week or so, when I get my EGT gauge in. For now, I’m cautious.
 
Shooter



Thanks for the links. What jumped out at me was the maximum boost of 18. 2. I have the EZ box, but I have not installed the boost elbow as of yet. I wonder what risk there is to increasing your boost. I've heard it helps with the EGT's, but is there any real performance increase with boost increase.



Chris
 
boost module

I found that the boost module and elbow dropped my EGT's - probably about 100 degrees. I never saw over 1050 stock (we don't have mountains in Iowa, so had to do my testing at frowned upon velocities). With the VA box, it would head for 1150-1200 if I really stood in it, and it required 2400+ RPM to get the temps into that range. With the boost module and elbow, I've never seen anything over 1100. As a safety measure, I think a boost module and elbow on a bone stock truck would negate needing a pyrometer, not that it ever hurts to know what is going on. I'd also bet that many of the trucks you see without gauges probably don't have many mods either. My 2 bits worth . .



Ray
 
Except for the K&N in the airbox, I am completely stock. My EGTs can pass 1300 pretty quickly going up a sustained grade, when I really have my foot in it. I never have held it down to see where it would go, because I too have read the warnings on TDR. But, if 1300 is the danger point, a stock truck can definitely pass it.

Don
 
I was reading the replys and became interested in the timing issue. I know our Cummins run retarded timing and the True torque and EZ edge increase the timing. Do these boxes pose a problem to the longevity of our engines? I realize if you add more power you may not get as many miles out of the engine but I don't want to go from a 400k mile engine down to a 200k mile engine just because I added a box. Tell me its not that bad.
 
If a hose comes loose on the pressure side of the turbo you will see your EGT go up real quick, even on a stock truck! Been there, done that, glad I got the gauge!
 
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