Remove the lift pump from its stock location. Also remove the line assembly from the pump to the fuel filter canister. Do not remove the pump bracket from the block as it seals off a block opening.
Remove the short fuel line assembly just prior to the stock lift pump inlet. It consists of a banjo fitting and a short section of plastic tubing with a quick disconnect. The quick disconnect comes apart by simply squeezing the two buttons and pulling. Save this banjo fitting as you will need it in a later step. Also go down along the frame and remove the bolts that secure the OEM hard fuel line clamps. You will be removing a good portion of this hard line.
Before you cut the stock fuel line, use some compressed air and blow the fuel in the supply line back into the tank. You need to make sure this line is empty so you don’t have a mess or a fire when you cut it.
Using a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, cut the stainless hard line somewhere ahead of the tank. Don’t cut right next to the tank. Leave some line to work with. I’m thinking maybe 12” in front of the tank should do. Of course this step will depend on you chassis length and where your mounting the pump. This stainless line is very tough and you will not be able to cut it with snips or anything like that. A tubing cutter will work too but you may not have the room to rotate it unless you pull the line away from the frame…which could also be tough. The dremel, on medium speed, will make a quick and clean cut. Wear your safety glasses. You’ll also want to debur the ID of the tubing and make sure the OD is smooth. The dremel works good for this too. Again please make sure to evacuate all of the diesel in the line so as to not start a fire. The dremel wheel didn’t throw any sparks when I did mine but I’m sure it did get a little hot right at the cut point. Remove the stock line from this point forward. Re-install the plastic clamps to hold the other fuel line and brake line to the frame. !Once you do this step... there really is no turning back! Your in deep now.
Take that short section of OEM fuel line you saved and carefully cut the plastic hose away from the large banjo fitting. This banjo is the one on the inlet side of your stock lift pump and is also the largest, by far, of all the banjos. Once you peel away the plastic line, you now have a banjo fitting that can accept 3/8” ID rubber fuel hose and clamp. You will need to file or shave the “barb” section of this fitting so your rubber line will slip onto it easily. Don’t totally remove the barb as it will help secure and seal the hose.
Mount your pump bracket on the frame. To make a bracket, use metal such as 1/8" flat steel or aluminum. A 90 degree angle will work. You’ll need piece about 3. 5” wide x 6” long. Bend it so one leg is 2” and the other is 4”. This step is variable and a local welding shop should be able to make it for you for under $10. Choose your location near the tank yet not too close to make cutting the stock supply line difficult. To make it easier, get a location where you can use existing frame holes for mounting bolts. Mark and drill the pump support holes. Make sure when you set it up the pump will be facing the proper direction…outlet toward the front of the truck. Two 5/16” holes in the other leg should hold it to the frame nicely. Even one bolt would work as long as its torqued tight.
Mount your lift pump (now officially called a transfer pump) to the bracket and tighten all the bolts involved. Now might be a good time to take the top off the pump to inspect the impeller for any wear, trash, or broken parts. When you put it back together, lube the impeller with some 10W30 and install the rubber gasket backwards to get a new seal on the pump side of the gasket. Snug the pump cover bolts down good but do not over-tighten or strip them. Hand torque with a 7/16” wrench is sufficient.
Install the two metric adapters along with two new sealing washers in the pump. Install the two hose barb fittings onto the metric/-6 adapters. Tighten them by hand using normal wrenches but again do not over tighten. If your using aluminum fittings, torque according to the recommended amounts. Usually aluminum fittings are tightened by hand and then given 1/6 turn (1 flat) to seal.
Measure and cut a section of hose to go from the OEM hard line to the inlet of the transfer pump. Install the hose and two hose clamps.
From the outlet of the transfer pump, install and run a section of fuel hose up to the fuel canister. Choose your hose route wisely to avoid any portion hanging down or rubbing up against a sharp object. You can secure it along the way using a couple of plastic ties. Once up by the fuel canister, install the hose on the re-used banjo fitting and tighten the clamps. Make sure to slide the hose past the line barb and install the clamp on past the barb. 15psi of pressure probably will never cause a problem but you want to do your best when securing the hose. Install two new sealing washers on the banjo bolt and install the banjo fitting on the inlet of your fuel canister. Torque according to factory specifications.
Connect, run, and secure your wire extension harness from the engine to the pump. Use some plastic ties to secure it to the fuel line. Perhaps a little dielectric grease on the connectors would help ensure a long waterproof life.
You are now done with the “transfer” of the transfer pump. Install a new fuel filter and prime the system using normal procedures (starter bumps, etc). Once primed you must make sure there are no leaks at any of the fittings…or anywhere else for that matter. When you start the truck, it’s a good idea to watch the new system and make sure there are no odd signs or problems…such as leaking. Don’t get underneath a running truck without being positive it is secured, blocked, and the park brake on. Keep safety in mind during this whole process so you can enjoy your truck even more.
I’m hoping you will be monitoring your new setup with a pressure gauge. If you’ve come this far you owe it to yourself to see what’s happening. You can still monitor pressure in all the same places as before…fuel canister, VP inlet etc.
As a note, the stock hard supply line basically measures 3/8” ID. So you’re not gaining anything with 3/8” hose. Plus, your still using all the same banjo fittings. It might be beneficial to go ahead and get some drilled out banjo bolts for all the fittings.
I don’t know how much HP this setup will support. Probably as much or more than the stock system. Again this write up isn’t intended on making more power…just relocating the stock pump. If your expecting HP gains later…it might be a good idea to increase supply line size starting all the way back at the tank.
This entire description was intended as information only. Some of the steps may be different for you. And you may have to do more than what is shown depending on what you want. But this is really about as simple as it gets for moving a pump. If you feel confident as a mechanic, have some basic tools, and a little time…you can do it. Good luck.
Here are some photos of what I'm talking about in reference to the banjo fitting you can re-use.
Banjo Photos
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