I think My truck has a lift pump in tank and one on the Block, Looking for some Guidance.

[Joey.G]

Gotcha, I really am just trying to verify if both are working, going off the buzz probably isn't the most accurate.

 

[BigPapa]

Bypass the DDRP and run the other. All you need is a hose barb union and a couple of clamps. What is this plate you’re referring to?

 

[Joey.G]

It was part of dodges kit when they did the service bulletin. It's unavailable from I see now basically it mounts to where the lift pump is on the block and has an in and out. I would like to find one just for a clean look.

 

[NIsaacs]

It was part of dodges kit when they did the service bulletin. It's unavailable from I see now basically it mounts to where the lift pump is on the block and has an in and out. I would like to find one just for a clean look.

This?

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fuel-pump-blockoff-plate-fleece-fpe-cumm-fbop/fuel-pumps

 

[BigPapa]

If you want to remove the DDRP for a clean look, all you need is a big block Chevy fuel pump block off plate available at any auto parts store.

 

[Joey.G]

https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-union-5175562aa

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-05175562aa

I believe this Blocks it and acts as a pass though. But I could use those and attach the lines.

 

[BigPapa]

Are the factory fittings still there?

I think I’d go for a Mr Gasket plate and one of these.

 

[Joey.G]

Factory on inlet side outlet side has a bigger blue hose but I believe fitting is factory.

 

[SAndreasen]

Why not just leave it alone ? The sky won’t fall it hurts nothing if it dies if you are worried that much about it unhook the fuel line at the pump on the block and bump the key if fuel comes out it’s pumping

 

[Joey.G]

I am going to leave it for now, but ultimately I do want to make it right. When I am ready I'd like to come back to this thread and have kmy answers.

 

[SAndreasen]

I am going to leave it for now, but ultimately I do want to make it right. When I am ready I'd like to come back to this thread and have kmy answers.

my vote is when the intank dies and the one on the block dies replace the one on the block and get on with life you can swap it in 15 minutes no dropping the tank or lifting the bed . I’ve got two trucks with dead in tank pumps and they will stay that way until the trucks go to scrap

 

[Joey.G]

That's fine if the in tank doesn't restrict fuel flow.

 

[Joey.G]

Well, the DDRP went bad and I lost fuel pressure, Factory pump in tank won't pump thought the DDRP. I have decided to replace everything and use a in tank fleece set up. I was going to do a FASS 165 and a Sump but I think all in all the Fleece in tank is the better way to go, Hopefully its worth the price. Hopefully the VP is okay , the truck started to cut out over 2,000 RPM. My son said he didn't drive it long after it start but he did drive home.

 

[petersonj]

The in-tank lift pump will be a good way to go.

After dropping my fuel tank twice over the last 20 years, I decided to make an access door through the truck bed. One of the best mods I ever did. The actual time it takes to do the mod is about the same as dropping the fuel tank, replacing the basket, and re-installing the fuel tank.

With the modification completed, I can now remove the fuel basket in about 10 minutes. Easy access to electrical and fuel connections, easy to remove the large threaded nut, easy to remove and install the fuel basket. Also, the job can be done regardless of the level of fuel in the tank.

If this is something you are interested in, send me a private message.

- John

 

[Joey.G]

Fleece Pump is in and the other 2 lift pumps are removed, truck is running great again. I am hoping the VP is okay as it did run for about 10 Miles total over 2 days with low fuel pressure.

 

[SAndreasen]

The in-tank lift pump will be a good way to go.

After dropping my fuel tank twice over the last 20 years, I decided to make an access door through the truck bed. One of the best mods I ever did. The actual time it takes to do the mod is about the same as dropping the fuel tank, replacing the basket, and re-installing the fuel tank.

With the modification completed, I can now remove the fuel basket in about 10 minutes. Easy access to electrical and fuel connections, easy to remove the large threaded nut, easy to remove and install the fuel basket. Also, the job can be done regardless of the level of fuel in the tank.

If this is something you are interested in, send me a private message.

- John

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So pop rivet a frame in around the hole then screw the access cover to that ?

 

[petersonj]

So pop rivet a frame in around the hole then screw the access cover to that ?

Yes, that would be one way to do it. I drilled holes in the frame that I built and used screws and nuts to hold the frame onto the truck bed. I then drilled holes through the cover and drilled and tapped corresponding holes into another part of the frame to screw down the cover. The photo below shows this. Part of the cover is in view by the body of the tape measure.

- John

 

[BigPapa]

Or, cut a piece of bed floor out of a junker and cut your hole smaller than that piece. No need for the frame to screw it to.