Here I am

SBC Selection help please

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double disk clutch?

Rokktech phone #

Well first off I did call Peter like I said before. The clutch is not even a year old yet. First time I slipped it was 5 months after I put it in. I have pulled with it once, and have been on the dyno twice last year. Went drag racing last Oct, and let me tell ya what Peter and I talked about.

First off the clutch is said to hold 550hp, and I am sure it does. Next we talked about what I was doing with the truck, and what my next enhancers were going to be. Here is where the problem lies, and Peter knew exactly how I was slipping it. When speed shifting, (as fast as ya can with a 6 speed), the clutch sometimes can not get a hold of the fly wheel as fast as one would like. In turn causing the slippage, back off the go pedal a sec and all is well again. So all in all I can't slip it sitting in high gear cruising down the interstate and then punch the pedal, like the stock one. I can slip it in speed shifting the truck when I go into 5th and 6th. As far as pulling with it, well 3700 rpm at half track and no tire spin... ... :eek: the spark show under the truck was to say at the least impressive. I at least had enough sense to get out of the pedal when all was not going well. I am getting a twin disc in, because once the p-pump is on and my set of twins I build bolted on, the fe won't cut it... ... ... ... ... Peter and I agree on that one. Hope this helps, or at least made things a little clearer from what I posted earlier.
 
My stock clutch when pulled was glazed. The pads were new still, but they didn't hold worth the beans. I tink once you glaze over a clutch it continually gets easier to do. I don't know about the feramic material on the FE and how it reacts to glazing. But if its anything like the stock kind once to spin it it just gets easier.
 
good thing about the FE is it doesn't really glaze...



but... it does dig a pretty good hole in the flywheel and pressure plate... which reduces clamp load...



Forrest
 
rivercat said:
any one know the diffrence bettween the DD 6 puck set and the 12 puck set any pros and cons?



6 puck will be lighter, with quicker shifts, but will be grabbier on takeoff. I drove a bran new 6 puck 3800 PSI on a truck w/ poor bottom end - it was miserable! It was hard not to stall the truck (In this clutches defence, the DD's do get a LOT smoother with a few thousand miles on them)



After driving that truck, I decided on the 3600 PSI 12 puck. More mass, so it was a little slower shifting, little harder getting into gear. Once broken in, it is quite smooth - certainly smoother than an FE. 12 puck's will have more surface area allowing better heat dissipation when you are doing stupid things.



BTW, I'd stay under 3600 PSI plate load unless you like changing your hydraulics.
 
Don't be afraid of the hydraulics. With Peter's kit and proper direction you should be able to do the swap in less than an hour wiht a screwdriver and an end wrench.



-Scott
 
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