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Scheids First Gen 370's

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Fuel Tank Replacement

Another transmission question

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I pretty much agree with the above post... I do NOT tow/work real heavy with the POD's and my current pump settings... just not possible.

Yes, you can "drive by throttle" but you need to be very "dedicated" to watching your guages when doing so.



The POD injector is not for everyone... not just because of smoke or whatever but because they are a "Play Hard" injector for the most part.

With my hybrid 35/16cm I can (when using my summer settings) dead spike an 1800*F guage... . in seconds... running empty.

The good lady of the church has kept me out of the head gasket line for some reason known only to her.....

The POD can perform even better when you have the popoff raised upward. This is an option when you have lots of cool air to mix with it... .

My normal around town temps range from 500*F - 900*F on average. Keep in mind that is with the valet ON... in other words "low power" or no AFC fueling on line.

I can pull a solid 32-33psi for boost and real good temps no problem. With the AFC fueling on line, then the numbers climb.

The water/meth helps control that quite nicely actually and I can usually work it pretty hard and still stay in the 1250-1450*F range using a 30%meth/70%water mix... this is while running only the first (primary) stage of the 2 stage system.



hope that helps...



pb... .
 
I love my POD's. I keep my pump at the stock settings to keep the egts managable while towing. 1300 degrees comes on pretty fast when towing in the mountains at 70mph so I just back off a little and I can still hit 1300 degrees empty at 36psi but I really have to stand on it. I would like to install an ht3b under that pdrhx35 and turn up my pump. I think the pod's could supply enough fuel for twins.
 
I'd like to throw this out too... . the Lucas injector (aka:pOD) is a hard working nozzle. I honestly believe that if you look at the component configurations being run by the top 3 or 4 guys in our class (1st gen) you can realistically expect to break over 400 RWHP with the Lucas. Further, I also believe that with some improvement in popoff settings AND some upgrades to fuel supply pressure stability you can expect to reach the mid 400's.

Keep in mind that this is all dependant on the right component configuration. . eg: porting, O-Ringing, Twins, MODIFIED VE etc.



Now for the tough one... . I LUV to see the direction of interest in injectors in general... . BUT... ya gotta pony up for the $$$ if you want to play that hard.



OH..... Does anyone beside me have the Bosch manual for the VE pump???? If so and, you have a digital camera there are some GREAT pics of injector types/tips/designs at the back/end of that thing... .

I will try to get some pics posted so we can all see the differences between a basic injector tip as compared to, say, a sac type nozzle... .

Keep yer eyes peeled and I/whoever will try to post some pics for you guys to be able to visually identify the differences and perhaps understand some of the "Idiosyncrasies" of the POD injector and their tendancy to haze.



pb... .
 
Here is some text on the sac-type injector tip....

Here are some very premilinary pics... . I'll tweak and improve as soon as I can,or, if someone else can help with this project.



pb
 
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Update:

Well idle smoke is less than with POD's, I can say that much. I think I was expecting more than gain of 8-10psi of boost (50psi) at WOT... . or is that respectable? Pop pressure set to stock spec. Quieter, smoother idle. No other adjustments were made, just injectors out/injectors in.



Also not sure if my stock clutch is holding. I don't have the tach bouncing or engine revving like I'm used to in gasser apps with a slipping clutch. I can smell it after a hard bonzai run though. Maybe its time to drop some more $$$ on a South Bend...



I really have to do something about my darn intercooler. I just wonder how much I am losing to the atmosphere??:mad:



I guess I had dreams of pegging my 60psi gauge, then having to build a set of twins with the Sledpuller 66 on top of a Big Brother LOL...



Oh yeah my idle dropped a tiny bit. . maybe its time for more fuel at the screw!!! Nah, not yet. . Take care, Bill.
 
what clutch do you have bill? i'd think that if it's slipping you're not going to get full boost because you're not fully loading the engine. maybe???
 
:--) i'm going to go out on a limb here... ..... that might be the culprit? i know that when my tires are spinning (and my trucks not going anywhere), it doesn't smoke. no load, no smoke, less boost. time to spend all that money you're making cleaning out the garage, eh?
 
Seems to me you need to get your wastegate, er I mean your aftercooler fixed, and then get your torque limiter tightened up a little. :-laf May as well overhaul the getrag and check over the 205 while you have the clutch out.



Michael
 
I'm tryin to say, I'll trade these to ya for that gooseneck:D:-laf!!! Excellent deal!!



BTW my getrag doesn't like those bonzai runs of 50psi:eek:. It's back to not wanting to go in gear stopped, and slight grinding when cold. It did this before right after the new 14mm pump went on, I had to resort to starting in 1st gear, then magically after a couple months of babying it, it was like a new getrag or clutch. Got quieter, less grinding, alot smoother and not as tight as it was, also could start in 2nd again.



Maybe its my 'torque convertor' building up all that heat during my test runs and burning up the transmission fluid??
 
bgilbert said:
BTW my getrag doesn't like those bonzai runs of 50psi:eek:. It's back to not wanting to go in gear stopped, and slight grinding when cold. It did this before right after the new 14mm pump went on, I had to resort to starting in 1st gear, then magically after a couple months of babying it, it was like a new getrag or clutch. Got quieter, less grinding, alot smoother and not as tight as it was, also could start in 2nd again.



Maybe its my 'torque convertor' building up all that heat during my test runs and burning up the transmission fluid??



Sounds to me like your torque limiter is more of the problem then you getrag. When you get the clutch hot (ie bonzia run) it will not disengage, and this makes it the transmission grind going into gear, because the transmission does not stop turning when the clutch pedal is down. Your clutch is on its way out, and the flywheel probably has alot of heat marks in it by now.



Now I did not say torque convertor, I was mearly calling your clutch a torque limiter, ie it starts slipping at a high amount of torque.



Michael
 
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