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Archived Self made problem: Need wiring help asap

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Archived Need ,torque spec. for new clutch

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I was trying to install the "hidden starter kill" switch used by some by going through the cig. lighter circuit.



There are two wires coming from the cig. lighter:

- orange/black

- red/orange



1st: I cut the r/o wire



There are two wires coming off the clutch pedal position switch:

- both black (and going into a factory plug/harness that has two yellow wires coming out the back and continues).



2nd: I cut one of the black wires



Next, I ran a jumper going from the black wire (clutch switch) to the red wire (lighter), then another jumper from the other end of the cut red wire to the end on the other cut black wire. Hopefully making a circular circuit, that when the lighter is pushed in should complete the circuit and allow the truck to start. It ain't workin'.



Both items still work independently though. I disconnect the jumper ends and put them together to test both the clutch and the lighter and both work fine.



How do I make this connection so that the lighter (when pushed in) completes the circuit????:rolleyes:



Thanks
 
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Hard to describe electrical circuits with words but it sounds as though you doing it correctly. Try putting an ohm meter or continuity tester across the two lighter wires and see if are getting flow though the lighter when it's depressed. Many times a lighter that's been used for smokes won't make a good connection with low amps but works fine when you put the power to it.
 
Hold it

The wire you cut from the clutch is a ground wire . If you use the cig lighter you must not have it hot must use it as a switch . looks like you could have fried some thing . check it out with others before you do any more . Ron in LOUISVILLE :--) :--) :--) :confused: Oo.
 
I agree with the above posts, but here is what I would do. I have thought about doing something similar.

1. Get a 12v relay from somewhere.

2. Cut the ground wire from the cig lighter so when you push the lighter in the wire becomes hot.

3. Put the relay in line with whatever wire you cut to disable the starter so that when the relay is turned on the circuit is closed.

4. Ground one side of the relay coil.

5. Connect the other side of the coil to the wire that used to be the ground for the cig lighter so that when you push in the cig lighter the relay now activates and enables the starter.



This way the small amount of current needed to power the relay is the only thing going through the cig lighter coil. There shouldn't be too much voltage drop that way.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
Chris, your relay system will work but is an overkill. My disconnected lighter in series with the clutch start switch has been working great for years. Very little juice flows though the lighter when used this way.
 
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Illflem,

Could you give a little detail as to your setup? Should I only be using ONE of the lighter wires or both? I only cut the one and used the ends to go to the ends of the ONE cut wire at the clutch. Does this sound right?



Does it matter which of the wires at the lighter and the clutch are cut and used? I didn't think it would as long as it just "interupts" the current flow.



I've heard of the relay idea, but also heard it was overkill for a small current. I just need the lighter to "continue" the current to the clutch when depressed.



Still waiting for ideas.
 
Walker,

Yes it does matter which wire is used at the lighter. You need to connect to the ground side of the cig lighter. If you conect to the hot side it won't matter whether the lighter is pushed in.
 
Walker

Without a wiring diagram I am confused with the way you are doing it. But I would say that a relay is preferable not because of circuit amperage but because a relay would completly isolate the two circuits. I have a way to wire it in my mind with a relay but not without one. If I am correct on how you are wiring it then the clutch switch needs to have the correct wire cut also. Good luck



Edit: CC is correct as this is the way I would wire it. That way both circuits are completly separate.
 
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Originally posted by illflem

Chris, your relay system will work but is an overkill. My disconnected lighter in series with the clutch start switch has been working great for years. Very little juice flows though the lighter when used this way.



Ok- I just thought I would throw it out there. In my old GMC the full load of the starter soleniod went through the wire to the gear selector swith. Right after I wrote that I remembered that our trucks have a starter relay in the pdc which probably makes the load very small. Sorry..... my idea above was perhaps over kill.

Chris
 
Ok. This is gettin rediculous. I've tried several combo's with the wires and now I've blown 2 20amp mini fuses for the lighter. And blew the big 50 ACCessorie fuse in the PDC. I'm heading for the NAPA to get some fuses.



When I get back, I'm going to try another combination. I'm gonna put the 2 HOT wires back together for the lighter. Then splice the two seperate clutch wire leads to the lighter ground wire (I'm assuming it's the orange/black and not the red/orange I've been using). And see if this works.



Q: Is the lighter a seperate switch in and of itself. In other words, can I put one lead wire from the clutch to the lighter ground side, and the other clutch lead wire to the hot on the lighter; and when the lighter is pushed in it will close the circuit?

Or does the lighter still need some sort of power to complete the circuit when it is pushed in? I'm thinking maybe NO, because the lighter is NOT supposed to work anyway after this "starter kill" switch is complete, right?



Crap, now I'm really gettin' cornfused!!:mad:
 
Walker, consider your lighter a switch with two terminals, cut one wire to the clutch safety switch (now you have two) then splice one to each of the lighter terminals. Your old lighter wires are totally disconnected, it will no longer work as a lighter.



Chris you have the reasoning right as to why no relay is needed. There already is one or some variant of one in the safety circuit.
 
I'm not the handiest with electrical diagrams but the attached should help. You want to COMPLETELY disconnect the lighter switch from the r/o and o/b wires. One of them is hot and the other is a ground. If you switch the hot wire to your clutch pedal position sensor you will continue to pop fuses (if you're lucky) or burn something up (if you're not).
 
if you want to keep your cig. lighter...

If you want to keep your cig. lighter you'll have to use a relay. But you DON'T want the cig. lighter to ground THRU the relay.
 
another caveat

Be aware that with the wiring diagram above, if the cig. lighter is "out", your cruise control won't disengage when you push the clutch pedal.
 
Re: Hold on please

Originally posted by baby. driver

If he is using the same wires that disconnect the cruise, that in itself is a problem.



Jay



Obviously, hence my warning. Anytime you put a switch inline with the CPPS, you have this potential problem.
 
Originally posted by illflem

When the lighter is disconnected from power it won't pop out since it doesn't heat, no problem with the cruise.



Yes, I understand it doesn't heat, but still, if it's "out" the cruise doesn't disengage when the clutch pedal is actuated.



For anyone who is concerned about this, remember that the cruise also disengages when the brake pedal is depressed.



I think it's a unique idea and I may just do it to my truck.
 
A SIMPLER way, at least in my view.

I considered the lighter approach and was concerned about, the complexity of it, the access to the wires and the need to remember to undue the connection after starting



I chose to use the wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, between the power dist. center and the starter.

You can find it near the rear of the driver side battery on the '01--its a brown wire and there is even a plug connection about a foot from where it comes out of the power dist. center. I simply unpluged it and ran a wire from each end through the fire wall, under the carpet and to a push button switch mounted on the left skirt of the drivers seat---looks like a seat control.

You must push the button to crank.

No access problems, its simple, and no problem of remembering anything. If you don't push the button, it won't crank, and hopefully a would be thief will not take the time to sort it out.



Vaughn
 
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