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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sell or Not to Sell?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) runs rough

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This thought keeps me second guessing myself.

We sold our Artic Fox truck camper. In its place we purchased a 25' travel trailer.

I really have no use for our 1998 12 valve dually with 125000 miles on the clock. Our 2006 5.9 with 74,000 miles, handles this trailer with ease
problem is this, the 12 valve is an awesome pickup. Nothing wrong with it. Costs me nothing but insurance and registration, and a place in our covered driveway.
I will talk myself into selling, later, I talk myself into keeping it. My wife tells me she would rather drive and or ride in our 2006 for obvious reasons.
Myself, I enjoy driving the 1998, I rarely ever ride as passenger in the 98.
I also have the crazy Idea of selling both the 1998, and the 2006, and buy a 2012 4 door long bed. (Pre-DEF)
Oh the joy of random ideas and possibilities.
 
Keep them you will regret it if you sell them I had a 12v i miss it but I like 2005 better it drives so good just my 2 cents
 
Sounds like you have redundant trucks and your wife prefers the newer one. You know what to do...

I had to make a similar decision with my 12V, hated to see it go but I just didn't need it and couldn't justify keeping it around even though I'd paid it off many years prior. It took a couple of months of having them both in the driveway before I could let the old one go.
 
I think I would keep both, but if I sold them I would buy a 2013 or later. The DEF trucks are much better than the pre DEF trucks in my opinion.
 
In 2013, my daily driver went from my 12 valve to a RT Challenger. We used the 12 valve only for towing the fifth wheel. Two months ago, I added a 2016 4x4 crewcab longbed 2500 with DEF, traded my wife's Ford Flex. She drives that truck daily, I drive the Challenger. We towed our fifth wheel with the new truck this summer. Though I love the 12 valve, I am extremely pleased with the new truck. We have had it for two months and have over 7,000 miles on it already, most of that towing the trailer. There's no comparison, it's a much better truck, power and comfort wise. I just hope it's longevity equals that of the 12 valve. At this point, I think the 12 valve will end up with one of my kids.
 
When I buy my new rig, my 98 isn't going anywhere. Do I NEED two trucks....
Absolutely not. But it's worth the few hundred a year in insurance and registration for me to hang onto it.

Besides that, I've got big plans for the ol girl. When she gets retired from primary rig status, the wicks gonna get turned up and she might just see a truck pull or two....:D
 
Sold as of 09/05/2016. A post on Craigslist was all it took. A lot of replies, straight forward serious offers. A bittersweet day for me. Living in the city limits, limited parking was a big factor for selling. I can honestly say, I will always have good memories of the "98 12V. When it drove away, reminded me of watching our kids leaving for basic training and college.
 
I miss my 04.5, but I do get to visit it from time to time, but my brother takes good care of it. It's too expensive to keep two HD trucks in Comifornia, unless your going to make money with one, or both of them. I never drove or owned a 2nd gen CTD, but I did own a 94 2500HD gasser. My plan was to buy a 2nd gen CTD, before they were gone, but I saw a 3rd gen with just the Chassi with engine and manual transmission on display. That convinced me to wait. The 3rd gen is much better in brakes, frame, and style. I did drive a 2014 2500 CTD for @ 30K miles before I quit my last employer, and I was not impressed with the 68rfe. The truck lost the 3:42 rear diff at 14K miles, and it had to be completely replaced. I wouldn't buy any 3:42 rear diff truck and it would have to have the Aisin. At present, if I were to buy a 4th gen CTD, that would have to be a 2013 or newer DRW CTD (because you can't get more than a 3:42 diff unless it's a DRW) and it would have to have a 4:10 rear diff with Aisin auto.
 
In SRW the 3.42's and Aisin work well. Our 2015 is a freeway cruiser. To drive our Buick Rainier at 70 it feels like you are pushing it and rushing it to get somewhere. The 2015 RAM feels like "why don't you let me run 80 for a few hours like you did bringing me home from Colorado????"

We are off to Arizona in two weeks with the trailer and will be 24520+ combined, and I will give you a towing report. We did a shakedown trip last week and hit the cat scale pretty much loaded like we will be going to Arizona.

Steer 5120
Drive 6620
Trailer 12780
Total 24520

Trailer Bighorn 3575el GVWR 16K Length 39'4"

SNOKING

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FWIW, SNOKING I'm aware of the Aisin with 3:42 diff, and the reputation. BUT my experience with a 3:42 and loss of income for 10 days while it was repaired, cured me of that.
 
I miss my 04.5, but I do get to visit it from time to time, but my brother takes good care of it. It's too expensive to keep two HD trucks in Comifornia, unless your going to make money with one, or both of them. I never drove or owned a 2nd gen CTD, but I did own a 94 2500HD gasser. My plan was to buy a 2nd gen CTD, before they were gone, but I saw a 3rd gen with just the Chassi with engine and manual transmission on display. That convinced me to wait. The 3rd gen is much better in brakes, frame, and style. I did drive a 2014 2500 CTD for @ 30K miles before I quit my last employer, and I was not impressed with the 68rfe. The truck lost the 3:42 rear diff at 14K miles, and it had to be completely replaced. I wouldn't buy any 3:42 rear diff truck and it would have to have the Aisin. At present, if I were to buy a 4th gen CTD, that would have to be a 2013 or newer DRW CTD (because you can't get more than a 3:42 diff unless it's a DRW) and it would have to have a 4:10 rear diff with Aisin auto.

Why do you think the gear ratio contributed to the diff failure? Some AAM diffs have been noted to fail early, I do not think gear ratio has much to do with it. Cummins12V98 had crummy gear lube at just over 20K miles. SNOKING
 
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SNOKING, I didn't like the change at the time, and thought it was too tall, now that they have been around for awhile and have not had many failures, I guess it's OK, but only per the failures. I guess it was my luck and Dodges problem, because the owner is a Ford fan. But there is a reason they only own the 7.3 PS. With my work truck 2014 2500 CTD 68rfe and 3:42 it would ping real bad if cruising @ 50 mph and I would give it throttle, it would be running around 1000 RPM. If I ran it in T/H it would always clunk real bad, if I were in traffic. I had to constantly paddle shift it to keep it in the 1500 RPM range. It is now in a law suite due to the rear diff and a major charging issue after a tech changed the oil, but that's another story. Dodge can't figure out the charging issue and the owner had to park it, espeacily now that I quit. It's unfortunate because he WAS looking into changing the fleet to Dodge's. As I have stated, no 68rfe and 3:42 for me, but a 4:10 is ideal in any 6spd trans combo.
 
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I also had to get rid of a truck when I bought my new 2016 Ram last spring. Sold off my 96 CTD 5 speed manual 4x4 with less than 150,000 miles on it. Sold the same day I listed it on Craig'slist. I did keep my other 96 12 valve with a built auto.
 
I decided to just fix up my 1995 dually, its really not worth selling to me. A/C still blows cold, has less than 100K miles. It actually runs better than my 2003 dually since I freshened up the drive line. The tag cost $24.50 this year, its not that costly to keep around. Mainly tires is the issue, they dry rot eventually. 6 tires get expensive for an occasional driver. I would keep your 2006, new trucks bring new problems. Thats why I hate the idea of upgrading the 03, its all pre emisions and runs fine with 103K, I just need to fix the A/C again. I need to put the steel blend doors in soon. I'm running the old trucks till they die, putting the money saved in a late model CRV for daily driving. My early 160 hp 12 valve has been very good, no big issues. One mechanical fuel pump recently, love the old 12 valve, its been pushing around 400 hp for many years now. I tuned it down recently to stay under 35 psi, I figure 45 psi WOT was pushing it with a stock head gasket.... fun truck. :)
 
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