Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Sell the 12v and Buy a Great 24v?

[MGosciewski]

My buddy Steve is wanting to buy his friend's '04, but needs to sell his '01 to do this. He's offered it to me. I have a '94 that I got in December that now has 153k miles. I have done some upgrades, but still close to stock under the hood. I want speed and smoke.



Steve's '01 is a true pullin' truck with 99k miles on it. Chipped, FASS, new transmission, other upgrades and well cared for. He wants 18k for it. Bought it for 20k a few years ago and has spent at least 6k on it.



Dropped it off here for me to drive for a few days. MAN is it fast compared to my old dog. Smokes BIG, too. It was dark and I still got the looks from people and smoked the freeway up taking off.



Any thoughts/concerns/opinions?

Thanks

 

[RKlaassen]

I am sure you will get as many opinions as there are members out there, so here is mine:

Had I known how much the electronics are involved in the reliability of the 98. 5 on up CTDs, I would never have traded in my 94 on the 01. 5 I own now. I put 190k on the 12v and it never left me stuck on the side of the road. Can't say the same for the 24v. Yes, the 24v runs sweet when all is well, but ... VP44, lift pumps, APPS, vacuum pump, power steering. What's next? Wish now, I had put the extra bucks into the old simple 12v. I was able to always get it home running on its own.

 

[PRout]

Ditto. .

Thought the 2nd gens were going to be the hot thing. . Didnt know cummins was going to cough up a hairball on us with the VP44, Lift Pump, APPS & #53 block situations.

Would choose a good 12v anyday over a 2nd gen.

3rd gens are fine if you want to give DC more of your BIG dollars. I wont be a return customer from what I've seen recently.

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

I am sure you will get as many opinions as there are members out there, so here is mine:

Had I known how much the electronics are involved in the reliability of the 98. 5 on up CTDs, I would never have traded in my 94 on the 01. 5 I own now. I put 190k on the 12v and it never left me stuck on the side of the road. Can't say the same for the 24v. Yes, the 24v runs sweet when all is well, but ... VP44, lift pumps, APPS, vacuum pump, power steering. What's next? Wish now, I had put the extra bucks into the old simple 12v. I was able to always get it home running on its own.

Well Said...

 

[MrDiesel]

I'll bite, i"m thinking about the same thing. I have a 98 12V QC that I spent tons of $ on and I love the truck, but I want the fuel milliage of the 24V or HPCR. I hear a lot talk about the electronics on the 24v, but I have NEVER personally known one single person that has puked a VP44. One buddy lost a lift pump, that's it. On the flip side I have (and have known people) who have puked fuel shut offs and other small things on the 12V. There is absolutely no agrument that the 12V will be much easier to work on. But some times I feel the 24V gets a bad rap. To top it off the best I have ever done with an auto 12V 4X4 is 18-19 as where I've heard 20+ consistantly on the same truck with a 24V, with some getting much better. In the end lots will com into play making the decision. I put mine in the classifeids, but it will still take the right deal for me to jump.

 

[JTHosler]

MrDiesel,



If you want to get rid of that 98 let me know, I want a 12V, but need the quad cab to get my wheelchair in and out. I love my 02, but am about ready to fix the 0216 code, and don't want to do it again.

 

[elandon1201]

I'll bite, i"m thinking about the same thing. I have a 98 12V QC that I spent tons of $ on and I love the truck, but I want the fuel milliage of the 24V or HPCR. I hear a lot talk about the electronics on the 24v, but I have NEVER personally known one single person that has puked a VP44. One buddy lost a lift pump, that's it. On the flip side I have (and have known people) who have puked fuel shut offs and other small things on the 12V. There is absolutely no agrument that the 12V will be much easier to work on. But some times I feel the 24V gets a bad rap. To top it off the best I have ever done with an auto 12V 4X4 is 18-19 as where I've heard 20+ consistantly on the same truck with a 24V, with some getting much better. In the end lots will com into play making the decision. I put mine in the classifeids, but it will still take the right deal for me to jump.

Hi you know one now It is just so much more expensive on repairs for a 24V I think that is the real issue. Having to fork out over 1K when the VP goes out (and it will) is just alot to stomach.

 

[PRout]

Exactly. My truck is on its 3rd APPS. The first and second both died the same way (drop to idle unexpectedly). At almost 400. 00 a pop, and no word of an improved part is not what I call respectable or desired.

Hey, no sour grapes, just saying it like it is.

 

[bmoeller]

Mark, that is a tough one. The engine itself, is good, but the fuel system leaves a lot to be desired. Some guys have very few problems, and others, it is a constant headache.



Unless you are wanting to have a 4x4 truck, I'd probably hang on to the one you have, or get a '97-'98 12v. Although, if you want to spend a lot of dough for a P-pumped 24v truck.



153K isn't all that bad. I have 215k on mine, and have had very little to fix on it. Is due for some u-joints, though. Still all original joints on it.



As MrD said, the shut off solenoid can fail on a 12v, but you can still wire it in the up postion and drive home.

 

[MGosciewski]

Hey, thank you all for offering comments!



After driving the 24v around for the day, I indeed have a tough decision to make. It is a heck lot more fun than my dog of a stock 12v. I do love my '94 though. It is solid and I have had no problems over the 13k miles since December.

My big plan now is to convince my 72 old dad to adopt my 12v so I don't have to sell it! If he says "yes" then I'll get the 24v. Otherwise, I might just spend some on the 12v and call it my own - Steve's will always be Steve's to me and others.

All I've read up on, and like you all said here, the 12v is a GREAT truck and reliable. There indeed are more issues to face with the 24v. I think with that new transmission on the 24v I should be good... would put in a bigger turbo.



Aw man, I've gotta borrow it again before making the final decision.

 

[champspa]

the next one I'll buy is a 2007, maybe. to many problems with the 24 valvers who needs electronics in anything that has a Cummins in it

 

[MGosciewski]

Have the gauges for my '94 (not quite hooked up yet). If I add the #5 plate, 181 delivery valves, bigger injectors, and governor springs I'm thinking the trans won't last too long.

About how much for a new trans and bigger turbo? $5000-6000?



It's either that, or buy the 24v with everything ready to go for $17-18k... well, it does need a bigger turbo to go with the upgraded new trans.

 

[moneymuncher]

I made the mistake of trading my 95 for a 98. 5. only thing that ever happened to me with the 12v was broken throttle cable and I still got home with a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire. put 275,000 miles on it with only one clutch @ 95,000 due to trying to teach wife to drive a stick instead of riding on mine all of the time. She destoyed the pilot bearing which in turn ripped the input shaft oil seal. Old dog gave me 21mpg all the time on 33" bfg's. Now the 24v has 140,000 on it and so far 2 lift pumps, 5th gear mainshaft, Throttle position sensor, map sensor, constantly cleaning IAT sensor to maintain 17. 5mpg, and the ******* just dropped dead and left me stranded 15 miles from my folks house in virginia with the good old dead pedal/injection pump timing failure with my drag bike trailer in tow. Keep the 12v. just my experiences. Been driving diesels since 1989 started with fords, jumped to cummins as soon as 94 body came out. Went back to a power joke for three months in 2000 before finding this low mileage 98. 5. should have held out for a 98 12v instead. nothing better than mechanical motors. Have a great day

 

[MGosciewski]

Moneymuncher: Man, thanks for the advice. Sounds like you have had quite the experience with both the 12 and 24.



Checked with Steve and the injectors, lift pump, and vacuum pump have all been replaced. He didn't know what I meant by APPS.

Said there is no way you could break his block.

 

[DManey]

I can't say much for the 12V trucks being that I have never owned one and my 99 is the first CTD I have ever owned, but I have had very little trouble with mine. Replaced two lift pumps, last one got put on the frame and have had no problems with it since. Replaced the IAT sensor but it made very little improvement on fuel economy. The only other thing was a cracked manifold and I upgraded that too. The only thing I would do different is get a 6spd. instead of this dang auto. But all in all it has been a very good truck and I would keep it around for a farm truck to live out the rest of her days before I sell it.

 

[EMD-Run8]

P-pump that 24V!

 

[Alphacowboy]

I like my 24v. the option to tunr on and off the power with a switch is nice(with a fueling box)



I never owned a 12v, but unless you get the rare 98 model, I would hate them. the 94-97 interior sucks in my opinion.



I have 127k miles on my 24v, 2 lift pumps, and one Dead IP (didnt leave me stranded, was able to get home on limp mod) and a few small items. But since I moved my lift pump to the frame, its been golden.



I have the typical Dodge problems that occure in any 2nd gen model year, ball joints, trac-bar, hub bearings, steering box, and oil leaks.



I have a 5spd and never had a problem with the 5th gear. But it did have 64k on it when I bought it, so it may have been fixed by the previous owner.



I would have to say, go with the 24v. Keep a clean healthy supply of fuel to the VP-44 and you will be fine. People complain a little too much about this really, yeah the P7100 runs for ever, but I have heard of, and seen the after math of failed injectors in th 12v's too, and it aint pretty. I think, as long as you take care of it, it will last. my VP died after 3 months on the "box" and the lift pump was dead when I got around to putting gauges on it 2 weeks prior to the box. SO, I would say, it was probably my own fault.