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Sensitive headlight voltage monitoring

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Truck back from shop to fix 2000 RPM Vibe

New Truck delima

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I've had the Silver Stars for about 20K now, only trouble had was 2 burnt out. Auto-Zone replaced both free of charge, but will not replace any more. If they blow again, I'm going to try something else. I'd like to try the PIAA Platinums, but they are a little pricey.



Larry
 
If you're not supposed to tie into the power to the high beams, where are we supposed to get power for a relay for driving lights? I'm wondering how the lights are connected on snowplows put on trucks with this stupid computer contolled lights?
 
Originally posted by Blakers

If you're not supposed to tie into the power to the high beams, where are we supposed to get power for a relay for driving lights? I'm wondering how the lights are connected on snowplows put on trucks with this stupid computer contolled lights?



On my truck for the snowplow wiring the stock harness is plugged into a pigtail which goes to a relay and that fixes it all up on mine. There is a relay for each light.
 
Reconnected everything, I bought what I thought was a better relay, it was some specific POS that didn't work. So I used the one I had. Rerouted the ground and now everything works! Moral of the story;don't mess with the factory grounds, find somewhere else for new grounding. The tie in with the highbeam hot wire is OK(so far)
 
When adding my lites & "special" wiring, I found out that the switch uses lo-voltage for control(s). Went to the relays and used various methods to rewire them for the way I wanted. The power to the lights should be OK to use as this is "full" voltage (vice the control volts to the module). I think if you have the DRL's active (and still dont know if thats possible on the US units) they would be "pulsed" for the lower output and this might mess up some of the wiring if you tap into the lites on the low beam side. Dont see how they work as the relay is still in between and the "pulsing" would overwork the relay (if I recall that the lows are on a relay).



SOTSU!!

\\BF//
 
My truck didn't originally come with the driving lights, but I had the dealer install them before I picked it up, at their cost... I asked if they could wire it in with the parking lights, the said the only way they could install them was with a separate switch, and they would only be able to come on when my headlights are on. . I think it has something to do with the style of switch in the I. P. (instrument panel).



I don't know if this info helps at all, but I thought I would tell you what my *******, I mean dealer told me.....
 
Originally posted by JPM

OK, Now its been two days, no highbeam disconnects. So I believe it was not a preexisting problem. I'm going reconnect the relay to the highbeam hot wire, , use a different ground path. Has anyone used Silverstars for headlight bulbs? Will they set a code in the computer?



The highbeam disconnects are back, maybe the cheap relay is to blame after all. It seams like the circuit breakers for the high beams trip when the truck is cycling the intake preheat the most. Although it still does it after the the preheat stops. Any ideas?
 
DRIVING LIGHTS & RELAYS UPDATE

OK... . Now I've replaced the cheap relay I bought from Autozone with a Hella,#87106. The cheap one must have been sizzling ,drawing too much power on the coil side and causing the computer to think something was wrong. Or it could have been defective. Anyway,no more circuit trips!!:D :D
 
I would bet on the relay. I have had a relay tied into my parking lights bringing on fog lights for 50K miles. Not one problem... CJ
 
Originally posted by COBRAJET

I would bet on the relay. I have had a relay tied into my parking lights bringing on fog lights for 50K miles. Not one problem... CJ

Cobrajet, I'm glad I have it figured out now, but I think its different on the parking light's circuit,that circuit has a fuse not a computer.
 
Back to square one, its doin' it again!!!

"Lamp out" on high beams, so the "good relay" DID NOT fix it!!
 
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