Serpentine Belt: the Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V

[tajensen]

My old belt was looking pretty shoddy, so I ordered the Gatorback and replaced the belt yesterday. This belt is BEEFY! I am sure it will hold up much longer than the last one, and as an added bonus, no more chirp on shut-down (I know some of you like the chirp, but it was getting bothersome to me). This post is just to reaffirm what others have said about the Gatorback belt; it's the best one out there.



-Tim

 

[John]

Sounds good...



I just ordered one from the new Auto Zone in my area... $22. something plus sales tax.



I've always changed out the serpentine belts long before they are due for cheap insurance. I've always used the OE Mopar belts, rotating stock with the extra one I keep under my rear seat...



just in case.

 

[MCrossley]

I replaced mine some 40k ago and my gator back isnow starting the traditional chriping so I guess I got about 5k more of no chirping over the stock one... But I do think the belt has warn better than the stock one they are a beefy belt

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Just out of curiousity, about how many miles are you guys getting out of the OEM belts and the aftermarket belts?

 

[wyosteve]

I'm at 91k on my oem belt and it still looks good. I do have a Gatorback in reserve though.

 

[GFoley]

I had 50k on the OEM and went to the Gatorback. Now over 120K total miles and it still looks good, no chirp developing.

 

[Okie-Go]

I have the gator back and like it a lot so far.

 

[Piston Slapper]

OEM Belt

I have 114,000 on my OEM belt... I'll change it one day... still looks decent. I like the chirp.

 

[John]

Just picked up my Gatorback belt today after work. Wow! That is one knarly belt compared to the Mopar belts I've previously purchased.



That along with my new Practical Solutions Heavy-Duty Idler Pulley... I should be in great shape when my TST KDP kit arrives.

 

[slo-ryde]

What's the trick to getting the belt replaced? Do I simply force the idler assembly in towards the center to release the belt?

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by slo-ryde

What's the trick to getting the belt replaced? Do I simply force the idler assembly in towards the center to release the belt?

That's it. Remove the belt by inserting the drive nose of a 3/8" ratchet into the square hole in the idler pulley. Use the ratchet to unload the idler tension from the belt by rotating the ratchet counterclockwise as viewed from the front of the engine. The best position for the ratchet is almost straight up in front of the alternator. I like using a cheater pipe on the rachet then you can hold the tension off with your left elbow while you fool with the belts. Take note of the belt routing before removing, the underhood diagrams on some models are wrong.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

... Bill is right. Use a cheater bar in your left paw - but please be sure to always keep an eye on where your left arm/hand is while you have that tensioner sprung - they'll bite you if you're not careful.



Matt

 

[Snow man]

I put a Dayco belt on my CTD, my Napa dealer had them,and couldnt get the goodyear for me. I think they are the same belt as the goodyear. The part # is the same with one extra number,and it looks to be identical. It hasnt chirped on over a year since I put it on either. Its an option for someone who cant get Goodyears in there area.

 

[slo-ryde]

Originally posted by illflem

That's it. Remove the belt by inserting the drive nose of a 3/8" ratchet into the square hole in the idler pulley. Use the ratchet to unload the idler tension from the belt by rotating the ratchet counterclockwise as viewed from the front of the engine. The best position for the ratchet is almost straight up in front of the alternator. I like using a cheater pipe on the rachet then you can hold the tension off with your left elbow while you fool with the belts. Take note of the belt routing before removing, the underhood diagrams on some models are wrong.

Just swapped out the original for the new one. Piece of cake! I used a breaker bar with 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to pull the idler assembly over. Thanks!

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by Snow man

I think they are the same belt as the goodyear. The part # is the same with one extra number,and it looks to be identical.

The numbers are almost the same because most relate to similar properties such as size and material, it goes like this with a 4 08 081 0 belt for example (our trucks)



1st digit (4) represents a K section Poly V-belt.



2nd and 3rd digit gives the number of ribs.



4th, 5th, and 6th digit are the length in inches.



7th digit is tenth of an inch.



Part number 4060495 would be a K section Poly-V belt, eight ribs wide, with a length of 81 inches.



Many times when you ask for a belt by number all they do is cross it and give you the house brand, if you specifically want a Gatorback you have to ask for it.

 

[shendren]

my last gatorback lasted 40k mi.

 

[The patriot]

I still have the stock belt on my 98. I have 95K miles on it. It dont look bad in any way.

When I reach 100K I will replace it. I have a Gatorback in the garage. It was something like $22. 00 at Autozone last year.

Eric

 

[Josparkz]

Originally posted by tajensen

My old belt was looking pretty shoddy, so I ordered the Gatorback and replaced the belt yesterday. This belt is BEEFY! I am sure it will hold up much longer than the last one, and as an added bonus, no more chirp on shut-down (I know some of you like the chirp, but it was getting bothersome to me). This post is just to reaffirm what others have said about the Gatorback belt; it's the best one out there.



-Tim

What he said I've been using them for 5 years or so.