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Transmission service problem/

Ram vs Buck

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Trying to replace the belt on the 07. 5 6. 7. Read many posts here about how easy it was. Once I got the belt loose from all of the pulleys I find the tensioner had ot be removed as it was threaded in such a way that it would never come away from the pulley unless removed. Because of the number of "premature failures" of some of the tensioners/bearings, I decided to change the tensioner pulley while there. The pulley on the OEM tensioner is a smooth surface plastic unit. The part the local dealer provided by VIN is a larger diameter grooved pulley. This would obviously effect the routing of the belt. Which one is correct? The original belt routing appears to agree with the diagrams found elsewhere. :confused:
 
Sounds like you got the idler pulley, not the tensioner pulley. I may be wrong but I don't think the tensioner pulley is available seperate from the tensioner assembly.



Also, I've never heard of having to remove the tensioner, tensioner pulley, or any other pulley for that matter, in order to change a belt.



Did your belt fail? My '95 with a bit more than 400K miles on it is only on it's 3rd belt and I still have the original for a spare.
 
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Also, I've never heard of having to remove the tensioner, tensioner pulley, or any other pulley for that matter, in order to change a belt.
When they changed the shroud design (with the 600)it made it much more difficult to change the water pump or belt.
With the belt routing it must turn 180 to slip behind the tensioner,pulling the tensioner makes it faster than trying to work around it
 
Agreed, by removing the tensioner I can now see how the belt change is done in ~20 mins. Took a while for it to sink tho! I'm taking the idler back today and look into the tensioner roller issue.
 
Returned the idler to the dealer, no probs. Would not nor could not sell just the tensioner pulley. Ordered one from Geno's now I have a road spare.
 
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