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Set those valves

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06 Valve adjust??

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I know this has been posted before, but FYI, I set my valves today at 40k miles and some were way off from the . 010/. 020. 2 of the intakes had no clearance at all. Anyway, definitely is quieter and perkier(if that's a word). Well worth the hour it took.
 
Only took you an hour to set your valves? Mine seems to have a random knock and is also a lot noiser than most others I've heard. Almost all actually. Anyway, so it's pretty easy to do, is the "procedure" covered in the service manual along with all the specs? I'd like to look it all over before I decide to start messing with it.
 
What did you use to align the dampner w/ the TDC marks? In the manual it says to use a special tool to rotate the crank.
 
I have set the valves in several 3rd gens and every one of them has been way out of spec and they all made a difference in noise and power. just my 2 cents.
 
I have rotated several 2nd and 3rd gens, with a socket on the Alternator pulley bolt. It will only rotate in one direction, the other slips the belt. One person turning the wrench, the other watching the marks helps. If you miss and go too far, you have to go all the way around again. Go slow when the marks are almost aligned.
 
stick a pry bar on her she will move. Valves done at 37K and much better since then, although it did take a week or two to really smooth out.
 
Why not just buy a barring tool if you want to rotate the engine?

Its only about $50 and you can turn the engine precisely either way and can also use the barring tool as an engine brake if you want to install something like a fluid damper.
 
Jengle said:
I have rotated several 2nd and 3rd gens, with a socket on the Alternator pulley bolt. It will only rotate in one direction, the other slips the belt. One person turning the wrench, the other watching the marks helps. If you miss and go too far, you have to go all the way around again. Go slow when the marks are almost aligned.

THAT IS HOW I DO IT ALSO, PRETTY EASY. :cool:
 
jwilliams3 said:
Why not just buy a barring tool if you want to rotate the engine?

Its only about $50 and you can turn the engine precisely either way and can also use the barring tool as an engine brake if you want to install something like a fluid damper.



Barring tool is great for holding the engine tight, but not necessary for valve adjustments. I prefer the socket on the alternator so you can turn the motor over a lot faster. It's not like you have to be exactly at TDC when adjusting valves like you do when timing a 12-valve. If you overshoot a bit no big deal, as long as you're within 5-10 degrees of TDC on either side you're good to go.



Vaughn
 
Amazing...



At 50k, I thought I was good to go on valve adjustments till 100k...



Heck, I'm kinda excited now I get to do something that is close to free and make a difference!
 
Tomeygun said:
Amazing...



At 50k, I thought I was good to go on valve adjustments till 100k...



Heck, I'm kinda excited now I get to do something that is close to free and make a difference!





Weeelllll, while your at it these 24V springs ARE a little weak... ..... :-laf :-laf
 
Same here. I did mine around 20K chasing an engine knock. The exhaust valves were good, but the intake valves were all over the place with several almost out of tolerance. The service manual says as long as they are within spec it will make no difference in performance or noise level. Setting them all to . 010/. 020 made a huge difference in noise level and ran much smoother afterwards, especially at idle.
 
Stab said:
Are the top dead center marks obvious??





Look around the dampener, the TDC mark is a line scribed in the dampner, with TDC marked to one side of it. Do yourself a favor and put a dab of paint on it (I used touch up paint for the truck).



Put the TDC mark so it is in the 12:00 o'clock position (straight up). Take off the valve cover, if both of the #1 valves have movement you are at TDC. If they do not move at all, then you are at BDC (? is that right?)



Just get the mark straight up, and if it's at TDC you do one set of valves, and if it's not you do the other set. Then rotate so TDC is back at the top again and do the other set.
 
Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend...



I haven't even looked to see how hard the 3rd gen valve cover is to remove...



steved
 
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