Here I am

Set those valves

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06 Valve adjust??

anybody know what cracked injectors look like??

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steved said:
Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend...



I haven't even looked to see how hard the 3rd gen valve cover is to remove...



steved



4 bolts to remove the plastic cover (10mm)



2 bolts to remove the plastic breather box (8mm)



6 bolts for the valve cover (10mm)



valve cover is off, VERY easy.



Also, since I'm giving sizes. The adjuster nuts are 14mm. I forgot the allen size, but metric seemed to fit best in it also.
 
CIverson said:
Put the TDC mark so it is in the 12:00 o'clock position (straight up). Take off the valve cover, if both of the #1 valves have movement you are at TDC. If they do not move at all, then you are at BDC (? is that right?)



Thanks! I could not find a reference mark to line the TDC mark up with! Straight up should be easy enough!
 
Stab said:
CIverson said:
Put the TDC mark so it is in the 12:00 o'clock position (straight up). Take off the valve cover, if both of the #1 valves have movement you are at TDC. If they do not move at all, then you are at BDC (? is that right?)



Thanks! I could not find a reference mark to line the TDC mark up with! Straight up should be easy enough!





I was confused too, until I re read the Service manual page I printed on how to do it. I was looking around for a mark on the block like on a gasser.
 
CIverson said:
Look around the dampener, the TDC mark is a line scribed in the dampner, with TDC marked to one side of it. Do yourself a favor and put a dab of paint on it (I used touch up paint for the truck).



Put the TDC mark so it is in the 12:00 o'clock position (straight up). Take off the valve cover, if both of the #1 valves have movement you are at TDC. If they do not move at all, then you are at BDC (? is that right?)



Nope, you're still at TDC, but instead of being TDC of the compression stroke (when the valves are closed) you are at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke/the beginning of the intake stroke.



Either way, your method it correct, just a terminology difference Oo.
 
i was just thinking about this today as i noticed mine was ticking a bit more with only 36k on the clock... . a hard 36k but still 36 k...





Grant
 
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GWBourne said:
i was just thinking about this today as i noticed mine was ticking a bit more with only 36k on the clock... . a hard 36k but still 36 k...





Grant



Yeah, anyone have a picture showing the difference between the intake and exhaust valves from the top so we know which is which... or are they set the same?



steved
 
steved said:
Yeah, anyone have a picture showing the difference between the intake and exhaust valves from the top so we know which is which... or are they set the same?



steved





The very frontmost valve is an intake, then exhaust, then intake, exhaust, etc.



Also, if you look at the rockers, one is noticeably shorter than the other. The short one will be the intake for that cyl. long one the exh.
 
CIverson said:
The very frontmost valve is an intake, then exhaust, then intake, exhaust, etc.



Also, if you look at the rockers, one is noticeably shorter than the other. The short one will be the intake for that cyl. long one the exh.



Cool, I know what I'm doing this weekend... truck maintenance...



steved
 
GWBourne said:
i was just thinking about this today as i noticed mine was ticking a bit more with only 36k on the clock... . a hard 36k but still 36 k...





Grant





Hard 36K? What do you just drive to church on sundays? I'm at 60,000 with my 04. 5 :)
 
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JasonCzerak said:
Hard 36K? What do you just drive to church on sundays? I'm at 60,000 with my 04. 5 :)

I dont mean to change the subject, but how do you like your truck. My sig is same truck but not bombed
 
RVTRKN said:
I dont mean to change the subject, but how do you like your truck. My sig is same truck but not bombed



Love it. Works well, does what I ask it to.



Drivers door has an annoying rattle at 80mph + in the window. And anohter rattle developed lower in the door at lower speeds. Chrome bumbers have rust spots a ready, and the clear coat is to thin.



Other then that it's fine



As for after market stuff, I like the edge, but as soon I get a bigger turbo, I'm dropping edge for tst (keeping the ez when I get one). ConFE is breaking is nicly, Did my first 3rd gear burn out and race last night, the burnout was cool, seems easier on the truck. The 2nd gear 4x4 launch need adjusting on my end, not used to a clutch grabbing so quickly
 
BTW, I reset myu valves, 1000miles after the first time I set them

Yep, they were off a little bit.



First time the coolant temp read 140--ish by the time I started to turn screwes and tighten nuts on the rockers.



This time, she was cold for 4 or 5 hours before I crack the valve cover, Just to check where they were. Also maked TDC with some paint and a secondary mark 180 from TDC so I can easly view it from underneath the truck as apposed trying to guess where it's at between the fan and stuff.



So, this time around, I know for sure I was at TDC and the truck was at out side temps. I adjusted every one JUST A LITTLE BIT more, maybe like . 005 more tighterl, not sure eactly how muich, didn't check, just made them all . 02 and . 01 and was done with it.



Started her up and ZERO chatter, sounds like a really really really quite 24v.



took about 1. 5 hours to get it all done.
 
Since there has been unanimous findings that properly set valves lower noise and increase power, has anyone found an increase in fuel mileage? I'm not worried about mileage on a 7k lb truck, just curious what the result is. :)
 
Did mine today finally for the first time at 131k miles. They were all over, loose , couple too tight, some right there! :confused: Engine appears to idle smoother now, also seems to start just a hair quicker also. Was glad to see that A oil stuff is not leaving any deposits behind, clean as a whistle in there!! :)
 
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