2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Setting Caster & toe In 2001 4X4

[rootmanslim]

Although I have the factory workshop manuals they neglect to say which way to turn things to change settings.



1. If you move the caster adjustment pointer forward (toward front bumper) are you increasing caster ? (moving the front wheel forward) or to put it in us old boy terms, increasing the kingpin inclination ?

2. Which way does one turn the threaded sleeves (after losing the lock bolts) to increase toe in?



I have a 2001 4X4 with 19. 5 Rixons and tires that very alignment shop says is "in specs", but has always pulled to the right (even with OEM wheels and tires). After 6000 (36000 total) miles there is no tire wear to note but driving along with 3 degrees of left trim cranked in all the time is a pain in the butt. There are just no artistic front end shops in NW WY. They all have the computer and what it says is the word. thanks! Larry

 

[Brand-X]

Check this out

 

[rootmanslim]

Brand X, thanks for your post but while it's interesting it's of little use as I don't have a 1500 (no offset ball joints are made for the 2500), There is no upper caster adjustemnt on 4X4s, toe in is not covered as a factor whereas the factory manual says it is the largest factor in "going down the road straight". I did take the step (before posting) to set both casters the same (the right had been way behind the left) and doing that no effect on tracking although a slight improvement in return to center. (never had the shimmy or bounce he speaks of). He is right that specs are nice but... These kids today don't seem to have learned that alignment is as much an art as a science. thanks, Larry

 

[fox]

My opinion is the camber is the cause of the pulling to the right.

My 02 2500 has an offset top ball joint. Right side only. I loosened it and using a cotterpin, turned it. No more pull to the right.

 

[rootmanslim]

caster & toe in

Interesting, according to my local alignment shop, offset ball joints are not available for 2001 4X4s and the factory manual says camber is not adjustable. I'll have to follow up with the shop/ Thanks, Larry Root

 

[Brand-X]

I best pay more attention next time I will try to find the specs I was looking for...

 

[rootmanslim]

caster and toe in 2001 2500 4X4

As I was installing my "Luke's Link" today (You would have not believed the slop in the oem unit after only 36,000) I called him with a question and we got into my front end issues. He said move the left wheel caster to the rear extreme setting and the right to the front extreme setting. I did and it's 50% better. I also increased the left toe in a tad and plan to increase both sides as those 19. 5s are so hard I doubt scrubbing will be a problem. Still it's just bad engineering not to have a fully adjustable front end and of course, although never wrecked, the frame isn't square (most trucks are not) But better than the stupid Hydroform frame on the 03s on that you can't mount anything to.

It can be done right, my wife's 91' Madza Miata (bought new) with now 56,000 miles is 100% original except tires, shocks and cam belt. Never been aligned once and OEM tires lasted 40. 000 !!! But of course it cant pull my all up 6000 lb horse trailer. Dodge are you listening? The folks from Japan, Korea and soon China all have their eye on the truck market and based on the folks I know who have Toyota and Nissan trucks you may be in deep s--- already and , as usual, "you don't know what you don't know"! The way the 03-04 have been cheapened up (no fender liners HUH?) and the mileage sucks. Do the numbers the biggest Chevy 2500 with the big gasoline mill has about a 70,000 mile breakeven with the Cummins and in the meantime you have a good transmission and more interior room. And who really keeps a car more than 70K ? Just us Cummins lovers! Enough from "The Winds", would welcome more ideas. thanks, Larry