Setting Timming

[Bob V]

I got the timing kit today and hope to reset it this weekend. Does anyone have any hints that might make my first attempt go a little easer?

Thanks.

 

[DieselB59]

Break the gear loose from the shaft when the dial reads zero, so that the injection pump will not spring back to the low spot on the cam. At a given mm of lift, the injection pump will want to spring back to zero when you break it free from the gear. Then clean the shaft really well with brake cleaner before you re-torque it. I suggest you go through the spectrum of lift and mark the balancer with every mm of lift, so that you can get an idea of how far you're gonna have to turn the engine when you break the gear loose to get the desired result. Otherwise, you'll be working blind and that's no fun at all. Our race truck slipped timing at the Muncie event and we worked blindly in the field and got her timed the very first try. We do this everyday, so it was a little more than luck. Just think ahead and take your time.

 

[Bob V]

Chris, thank you for replying . I have a few more questions. First, why do different CPL's have different advance for the same lift? Second, do you have to replace the washer under the delivery valve? Third, do you use the Thrust bearing tool to reseat to gear on the shaft or can you do it without it?( it's the only tool that didn't come with the kit)

 

[DieselB59]

First of all, the bearing tool is a piece of garbage. It only complicates things, especially cost! You need to use washers with the new delivery valves. If you don't get new ones, you have to re-use the original ones. If you have no washers in the pump, none are needed. Timing varies from CPL to CPL for a couple of reasons. One is piston type. Some CPLs have different piston bowl designs and need different timing. The second thing is the reason also for the different piston type, which is EPA certification.

 

[Bob V]

Thanks again Chris, I understand about the need for different timing for different applications but I don't understand how the plunger lift that is measured with the dial indicator represents different advance for different CPLs ? The instructions I have for setting timing says that you must replace the washer under the delivery valve on # 1 after you remove it to install the dial indicator. I asked a guy at a pump shop for one and said he would give me one, but needed the old one to mach up,and DC wants $14 for one. I guess I want to know if would hurt anything to use the old one?

Thanks

Bob V

 

[DieselB59]

In saying replace the washer, they're just saying "in case it comes out with the delivery valve, make sure it's put back there". No need to buy a new one. On different CPLs some pumps have different mm of lift and that's why in the chart there are a couple different lift to degree conversions.