Several More Questions

[Mopar Man1]

Howdy once again



Well some may have noticed I was trying to sell my '93,I was looking for a '94-up 5sp but it ain't happening. So I reckon I'll be keeping my truck,lately I've been able to drive it a good bit more and I've noticed more things I'd like to ask if yall don't mind.



I have a whining,quiet grinding noise at low speeds,about 20-30mph and it's coming from the a$$-end of the truck,I'm thinking its the bearing in the two-piece d-shaft,it sounds like a bearing that is wearing out I haven't looked under it to see. Could this be my problem? Do they have grease fittings on them to grease this bearing?



I'm not a fan of automatic trannys but I'm just going to live with this one. I keep hearing bad things about autos though people saying they will burn up etc etc. Mine has the aux. trans cooler mounted on the side of the frame(drivers side behind the cab). This will help it,having more fluid in the lines,wouldn't it? Is there anything I can do to extend the life of the trans or just help it out?



I've also noticed when I let off the gas coming to a stop(stop/go traffic here in town) then it takes a long time to slow down. I know its a big truck so that will happen,but is there anything I can do to use the power from the motor or the transmission or something to help slow it down so I won't eat up the brakes?



What would yall suggest for a good tire to go on this truck? It has a set of Hankook Dynamic M/Ts on it but I just want a street tire because it'll only see mud if I desperatly have to pull someone out. I'm selling the Hankook's to my buddy hopefully,so anybody got any ideas on a good priced long lasting(Load Range E or higher) tire,street or A/T tread.



Thanks a lot,sorry to write stories everytime I post!!



Jimmy

 

[dpuckett]

Jimmy-

It seems those with great minds are long winded, to boot. We need the information to make a proper assessment of your condition, uh, I mean, situation.



The auto sounds like it may have a weak torque converter. Not that the stock ones were anything to brag about. Do you have or have access to a tach or photo- optical tach? Do a stall test on it, and see what that is. Book calls for 1775RPM for 1990model autos. I wouldnt worry about the transmission temp unless you plan to do some heavy duty towing with it. And, a 5000lb trailer doesnt qualify as heavy for these rigs. transmission temp gauge would allow you to monitor it, though. One other thing to check for your coasting is throttle rod/ cable binding or getting stuck somewhere. Mom's accelerator pedal (inside the cab) gets stuck once in a while on a nut sticking through the firewall in the cab for the pedal bracket.



As for the sound from the south end (as you're heading north) of it, I'd guess U-joints off the top of my head, though it could be wheel bearings, LSD clutches (only if you got LSD, though), differential bearings, or the center driveline suport bearing. As far as I know, that one is sealed, with no greaseable alternative. Start by checking the less costly thing, then move up as you eliminatr the possibilities. Doesnt necessarily mean replacing, everything either.



Godd luck with it all. I'm casually looking for a 96-98 5speed equivalnet to mine- 913 P-pump, good transmission, good brakes, comfortable seat (I'm 6ft, 38" inseam), etc, etc. But then, the 1st Gens have their perks, too.



Daniel

 

["Mad Max"]

Jim -

The whining could be your carrier bearing, but it could also be a badly worn ring and pinion, bearings, etc. Have a pro dif shop check out the rear end.



The 1st gen auto's are well known for not getting all the Cummins power to the ground because of the non-lock-up converters. Stock units will feel sloppy and slow, and the engine will feel like it's gunning its heart out and there won't seem to be the right amount of 'go'. Best thing (IMO) for our transmission's is a good aftermarket converter - lots of options with this. Heat is bad and bad = blown seals, clutches, etc. Keep the heat between 220-240 on the hard hills and I think you'll be fine for a long while. And lastly, frequent fluid changes (every 20k or so).



On your deceleration issue - that's the nature of the beast. The reason our diesels don't decelkerate like a gasser is because diesels don't make any internal engine vacuum like gassers do. Our diesels don't have a carb or evena throttle body, and as such the intake stroke doesn't have a butterfly valve to pull against on the intake stroke. Because of this our engines don't have anything to slow the engine down, really, except friction, valve train, etc. Our rigs make vacuum via an external vacuum pump, which provides vacuum to the brakes, solenoids, etc, but with the open air intakes and no throttle bodies to suck against our engines tend to freewheel. Only way to make the engine slow the load down is to (and I'm doing this to mine during the retrofit) install an exhaust brake. This is literally an on/off valve, installed inline in the exhaust system, usually after the downpipe, that is set up to close completely, shutting off the exhaust flow, so that the exhaust stroke ends up slowing down the piston travel, which slows the crank, and the truck. Works great, BUT, the achilies heel for the 1st gens is that because our transmission's don't have a lock up converter (like a regular clutch on a manual transmission), the engine will waste the braking capability that you want because the transmission's converter will 'slip' it all away. Only way to make THAT work in a first gen... (and I'm also doing this to mine) is to install a 2nd gen transmission with the lock-up converter. Sounds hard, but it's just nuts and bolts, and some electrical devices to engage the ex-brake. Long and involved explanation, but there it is. I have changed rotors on my rig twice. Brakes are just a part of the 1st gen equation...



Tires - I like the Firestone Steeltex radial A/T's, 235-85-16. Work great, quiet, not real $$$, track straight, and wear pretty good. I guess as good as any others.



Wow, talk about a story... I wrote a book. Hope that sheds light on some of those issues - good questions by the way.

- Sam

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Well, you got lots of good advice in here ... . the only thing I'd suggest is work on one thing at a time.

Tackle one issue till it's fixed and move on... otherwise you'll never know which of the 6 things you did caused the new problem and fixed the first problem. .

There ya go... that's all I'm good for tonight...



pastor bob..... "... . and it came to pass that no longer could he deny what was to be; instead he rejoiced in the truth that fuel was good and he sayeth unto me... matt the sucker or you'll git beat by the heathin Ford'ites... ". . the end. .





Oh, ps: I actually heard from the apostle Case500D today... he is in the land of rollers of hay and making big round hay things as we speak. .

 

[Mopar Man1]

*breathes in*



Well boys lemme see if I can understand what everybody is saying.



On the rearend,I crawled under it,no slop in the d-shaft,u-joints look to be in really good shape,carrier bearing doesn't seem to be in bad shape,but I did notice when I put it in gear this morning it clanged:-{} Which in the past vechiles I've owned usually means the rearend. I'll just leave her be for now unless it starts to sounding worse cause I ain't got the $$ to fix it really LOL



On the transmission,I reckon here soon I'll be buying a set of gauges(pyro,boost and trans temp) hopefully I'll be able to keep more of a check on everything. When you said a good aftermarket converter I went looking,went to DTT and looked at there converters and valve bodies and about choked on my mid-night snack:--) $650 for a conveter. On the fact of checking to see if I had any top in RPMs between shifts,a tach would be in need for this correct? But I ain't got a tach... don't really have the $$ to spend on a good one either... damn itOo. Any other way to well if the conveter is getting weak on it,other then just kinda noticing the slipping as I've already asked.



On a cosmetic issue I've been thinking of,hoping yall could possibly help out on this one. Now the truck has the Hankook M/Ts which will hopefully go and be replaced by the Firestone Sam told me about(good looking tire,thanks Sam) or something similar. The truck also has the fancy chrome simulators, they are in really good shape(until my pappy went and dinged the heck out of one of em by dropping a piece of wood on it He said oh no problem,they are cheap we'll just get another one HAHAHAHAHAHA He about died when I showed him the price for a set of new ones. Anyways I don't really fancy them because they are moreless hubcaps and I just don't really like the way they look. I was wondering about possibly just painting the wheels,that the truck is black with a grey interior I was thinking either paint them black(to give the truck the evil look) or possibly paint them silver(this will be spray can paint either way ) Which would yall suggest? Black or silver wheels.



*breathes out* Yep I'm long winded



Jimmy

 

[Greenleaf]

Just git you some wheel covers. I removed the factory units and picked up a set of stainless covers for a one ton, front wheel only. I paid a little more than $100 for them and saved like tons of cash as opposed to new wheels. The money I saved... I got a couple hundred worth of modsOo.



See my picks in Readers Rigs



-S

 

[Flexiheep]

I say hit the rims with some sandpaper and paint em black. But then again I like black steel wheels, like you said gives it a mean stance... .....

I would also look at the Cooper Discoverer A/T for a good tire that doesn't run too much cash if you have a dealer around.

 

["Mad Max"]

from past experience...



transmission:

Converter- So, from a stoplight you hit the engine and the engine goes to about 2000rpm, and just kind of stays there all day, every gear, and the truck just kind of 'catches up' to the engine? If so your transmission is 100% fine, and very stock, and also very normal. Mine did that until I got a converter. I spent about $350 on a TCI unit and the differnece was about as much as adding the new turbo, PODs and collar. Way better, and about 6 hours of easy work. Remember, there are 6 bolts holding the flexplate to the converter, not 4. And unlike every other 727 in the world, no, the converter won't come off with a gentle prying motion when you only have 4 bolts removed..... but don't ask me why I know that... .



Rear end: Worst case, yer looking at about $1300 bucks, but that included a new ring and pinion (mine was really, really shot all to hell - all 6 bearings, ring, pinion, posi clutches, seals... ). Can't get around it, and actually rear ends are almost as regular a maintenance item as clutches in some trucks.



Gauges: Surf around, have a look at other's pics - not bad money wise, prolly about $300 for a decent set of 4-6 gauges and the pods to hold 'em.



Engine: Check the throttle linkage, the little double ball socket link about 6" long between the throttle cable and the pump lever arm. Most of the time they're worn to hell and leave a lot of slop. When I replaced mine I gained 20 mph because the pump was now moving full travel - couldn't believe it. Dealer item, about $30, 5 minutes work. I think you have to drill out one of the original ball studs (on the throttle lever bracket) - not difficult just a pain in the a--.



Interior: Swap out your shifter lever for the second gen one. CHeck my readers rigs/diesel pics for the shifter arm. I have the instructions for the swap - finger-tip o/d operation, way sweet. Cost about $45 and an hours work.



Dude, yer gonna git bit hard, but yer rig is gonna scare the bejezus outta the other local rigs... .



- S

 

[dpuckett]

Dif prices

Man, I got new bearings, new carrier, and new spider gears for my open diff for right at $600. New R&P would have been another $200. That included labor, in the Springs, and not off Powers and Omaha.



-DP

 

["Mad Max"]

... yeah, I had to add new posi clutches, and, the expensive part - regrinding the bearing races to re-true them for the new bearings. It was really shot all to hell. I think the carrier was able to shift up to 1/8 inch side to side... . (ouch)...

I think the guy I bought it from never changes the diff fluid, and hauled a cattle hauler from Oklahoma to Sacramento... a lot.

- S

 

[RCCola]

standard check

try jackin up the rear axle and see if you can shake /move the tire up or down or side to side its the axle berrings failing/ making noise. If both sides are tight , get some gear oil and pull the rear cover off. This will show you how the diff is doing. I replaced the gear oil on my 91 and most of my rear axle slop was in the side gears to spider gears to axle shaft, i thought my ring and pinnion had loosened up but it had minimal slop. You can check the slop by blocking the wheels, setting the parking brake then put it in neutral and gently turn the drive shaft by hand while watching in side the diff to see where ,if any slop is coming from.



You got a cool Sharp truck, I had seen it in the classifeds and sicked a buddys on it who was looking for one.







hmrdwn

Roy