shift kit

[SRehberg]

I am in the process of installing TransGo's shift kit for the 47RE auto, (TFOD/518) and have been unsuccessful reaching TransGo's product support for a question. Has anyone installed one of these in their stock truck? In the instructions, the TV valve has a spring which is replaced by the kit; it comes with 4 springs, each of which alters the WOT shift points by about 200RPM. I don't know if the springs start above the stock shift points, or is somewhere inbetween etc. Any help would be appreciated. I am running a completely stock '96 pulling a 7000Lb. 5th whl. Thanks in advance to any help.



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'96 2wd auto 27'Apenlite 5th whl.

 

[Extreme1]

I thought that DC used the RH through '97?



Anyway, I installed the TFOD/DIESEL kit. I think the 518 kit might be for the gasser application. I installed a TFOD/JR kit in mine initially and redid it with a DIESEL kit.



In the DIESEL kit, it says to use the red spring for the 24 valve and the white spring for "all others".



Also, when you install the tapered bushing, drive it deep enough to be below the hole at 9:00. The instructions spec a depth and it wasn't quite deep enough on my truck.



One thing I did different from the instruction, I didn't drill out the holes in the seperator plate. I did it the first time and it made the truck shift too hard. That would be OK in a light weight car but on a heavy vehicle, it is hard on parts. I actually had to buy a new plate which was the current update and actually had a few holes smaller in some locations than the original. A new plate is $6 and a dealer in Milwaukee had it, I got it in the mail the day after I ordered it.



Try calling Dave Goerend, check the phone number in my sig, he might be in his shop.

 

[SRehberg]

Extreme1 thanks for the info. The kit I have says it's for the diesel, but it also includes every trans Chrysler ever built I think. The 47 is a RE in the '96 up (?) as it is now an electronic governer rather than the hydraulic (RH). I would prefer the tried and true hydraulic, but not much I can do about that. Thanks for the tip on the holes, I don't need any further problems than this trans generates on its own! I'll start out with the white spring and go from there; I just want to do it one time if possible.



You mentioned an "update" plate? I'm not familiar with that; is there an update that should be installed? As long as I'm in there, might as well do whatever it takes.



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'96 2wd auto 27' Alpenlite 5th wheel

 

[Extreme1]

The updated plate I'm refering to is the seperator plate that goes between the valve body halfs. If you didn't drill yours, it will be fine. I looked for the part number but I couldn't find it easily.



Call Dave G. with any questions, he'll help you out, I'd hate to steer you wrong.

 

[SRehberg]

Thanks, I'll give him a call. I haven't drilled mine yet, so I'll hold off for now. Does the update do anything for the valve body that I should change up to?



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'96 2wd auto, 27' Alpenlite 5th wheel

 

[Snow man]

I put m=one in my 96,and drilled the plate,it shifted perfect,not to firm,not to sloppy.

 

[carson6]

drilled out?

My valve body was drilled by the trans shop and turned to trash!

 

[Extreme1]

There are a couple things you can do while installing a kit that aren't in the instructions. Dave G. helped me with mine based on use, HP etc.



The update I'm refering to is just that the seperator plate I purchased to replace the one I drilled out when I installed the original kit had been updated. A couple hole sizes had been modified and the DIESEL kit actually partially blocked a hole that got drilled out in the JR kit. The seperator plate hole sizes can make a huge difference in shift firmness.



The stock plate will be fine.



Call Dave, he will help. If you install according to the kit instructions, you will not be satisified. I sounds like an old kit someone had laying around for a while.

 

[SRehberg]

Thanks for the input. I sure hope the kit I bought isn't an old one, as TransGo would really catch a verbal #@*$!. I looked and the one I have definetly doesn't have a "JR" anywhere near it, so I don't know where I stand with the age of it.



What did the trans shop do that "trashed" your valve body? Was it their installation mistakes, or was the kit the problem?

 

[mperkins40]

I have one and so far so good. I had the same question called Tech support they said to use the minimums for all changes for your vehicle (i. e. Springs, drill hole sizes etc. ) . I did all the recommended changes except the shift on demand change. (Used for competition models only)



A different number for Tech support is (626) 443-0100 (Sales gave me this #) I called both simultaneously and finally got through.



Here is a few links I found on the net that helped tremendously. Especially when adding a spacer the shift downshift accumalater piston.



http://www.geocities.com/robertballard_22655/my_shift_kit_installation_page.html



http://hometown.aol.com/gnkim/transgo2.html



One thing though. Initially my truck shifts slipped a little. When I called TransGo they said that the fluid was low.



They advised for me to check the fluid different than Dodge's owner manual said to. They wanted me to place the truck in drive with the O/D off and increase idle to 1,000 RPM. Sure enough it indicated low on the dipstick and added fluid. All of the problems went away.



They said I could score new lines on the dipstick if I wanted to check the fluid the old way. They said it was a liability issue which is why Dodge does not state to check the fluid this way.



The job took about 9 hours to complete. Messy but not difficult.



Caution: As directed by one of the links I gave you. Use the service manual specs for adjusting the bands and tighten the valve body screws to Dodge Torque specs. Contact me and I will give you that info if you need it.



Good Luck



Mike