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shift knob, help

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I know this might sound dumb, but I almost sprained my wrist trying to twist off the nv5600 shift know on my rig. Is it attached a different way?? I just bought this cool shift knob and want to attach it.
 
You have to pry off the cap that has the shift pattern on it and then remove the retaining nut that's there before you can unscrew the entire knob.
 
Nick,



Thanks for the thread size info. I've been looking for a shift knob like they used to have in the early 1950's, for trucks. They are kind of flat/round, sort of like the shape of a "flying saucer", with small, vertical lines around the outside perimeter (for better grip, I presume) & black in color.



My Grandfather's old Dodge (Fargo in Canada) had one of these knobs & I just loved it as a small kid.



If anyone knows where you can find one of these, I'd sure like to know about it.



Also, the threads would probably not be right on the new knob. How would you re-thread the knob for the M10X1. 5?



Thanks.



Joe F. (Buffalo)



PS: Happy Canada Day, to all you Canadians. I was up there in Wasaga Beach, ON. , last year, at this time. Had a great time.
 
Also, the threads would probably not be right on the new knob. How would you re-thread the knob for the M10X1. 5



if the threads on the new knob are 3/8"NC you can just chase the threads down with a 10x1. 5 tap and it will work... if they are larger than that, you can get a keencert or helicoil to make up the difference???



sort of like the shape of a "flying saucer", with small, vertical lines around the outside perimeter (for better grip, I presume) & black in color.



that sounds like a nearly identical description to the independent brake valve handles on the newer locomotives we have at work...
 
Boonieman,



That's EXACTLY what I've been looking for!!! Thank You, very much!!! Do you happen to know what tractor that knob is off of?



Nick,



Thanks for your suggestions regarding the tapping & helicoil. I probably will have to do something like that.



You guys have been a big help.



Thanks, again.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
Buffalo said:
Do you happen to know what tractor that knob is off of?

That style knob also came stock in (some?) 67-72 Chevy pickups. I've got one in my '69. Mine has the shift pattern etched into the top of it. You might want to check if the one you're buying has any shift pattern on it...
 
MDepot,



The one in the picture doesn't appear to have a shift pattern, on it.

However, that does bring up another question. If you wanted to engrave a shift pattern on the knob, how would you have it done?

Someone suggested a bowling ball engraver and a trophy engraver. I stopped by a bowling supply and a trophy shop & neither one could do it.



Any Suggestions?



Joe F. (Buffalo)



PS: Thanks for the Chevy tip. There's an old Chevy truck parts store near me.
 
I think the shift knob is for a Ford tractor. They don't etch the pattern onto the knob normally on a tractor because the shift patterns are different on different tractors on the older ones. The shift pattern on tractors is normally cast into the metal at the base of the shifter, so the knob is usually blank. I had a 73 GMC truck manual shift also, but it was a five speed, not a six, so the shift pattern on the knob wouldn't work for our Dodges. Good luck with your project.
 
That knob looks just like the one on my 1959 Ford 601 Workmaster tractor. I think the Ford 8N also used the same one. Tractor Supply may sell them, otherwise do an Internet serch for "Ford tractor parts" and you will find hundreds of sites selling Ford parts, and they will sell that knob.
 
There is a laser-engraving shop here that will take graphics and apply them with a laser to any kind of surface. Flatter is better though as there will be some distortion at the edges if the surface is curved. It probably should not be a big deal for an item that is less than three inches in diameter as long as it isn't a sphere.
 
that knob in the above pic is identical to the locomotive independent brake valve knob on the 30a-cdw brake valve assembly... looks ok i think, but i am going to stick with my #2 ball
 
Found Shift Knob!!!

Well, I found the shift knob, here in Phoenix, AZ. , at So. Cal. Speedshop. It is $8. 00. The knob didn't have the M 10X 1. 50 threads, so I purchased a tap with the proper threads for $6. 69 at the local Ace Hardware Store. It worked great.

While I had the shifter out, I took it to a tube-bending shop and had 2 bends put in to move the knob about 2-1/2" closer to the driver. Cost $14. 00.

Bending the shifter causes the paint/powder coating or whatever coating is on the shifter, to pop-off. So, I took it to the Dental Lab. I used to own, and sandblasted it. I then painted it, 4-coats, silver.

I just finished installing the new shifter/knob combo and it works well. I'm happy. Finally got the shift knob i've always wanted.

To be honest, having the shifter 2-1/2" closer to me doesn't make a big difference. Nothing negative about it, though, either. I'm not unhappy I did it, at all. It just doesn't make a BIG difference. Some folks are REALLY happy with the difference.

One word of caution: If you do this BOMB, make sure you open the ashtray and make your measurements with first gear position and the ashtray being open, in mind. It can get very close.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
RBattelle,



Due to the fact that I am "Technologically Challenged", & have no clue how to post pictures, I will be unable show you what I did. Furthermore, I do not own a digital camera & I'm not sure if my computer is powerful enough to do something like that.



You already know what the shift knob looks like from a previous reply, here. If you go to profinishinc.com & look for the "Whiplash" shift lever, you will have a good idea of what I built.



I'm really sorry I can't post a picture for you but, I just don't have the proper equipment or knowledge, to do so.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
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