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Shifting Issues After Transmission Fluid Change

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More help for P0107 problem

Addition to P0107 error code request

This is going to be a somewhat long post, so please bear with me. I've done quite a few searches and nothing quite like this has popped up.

My sisters and I inherited a 2006 Ram 2500 4x4 Megacab 5.9L Automatic from our father, for the most part of the last year the truck has been parked but driven at least once a month as we wait for the estate to be settled. I finally received the title two three weeks ago and we've all decided to sell because it's more truck than we need plus everyone is tight on money because of the covid mess. Has had maybe 500 miles put on it in the last year.

I've been in possession of the truck since February and have driven it sparingly, basically starting it and driving 15-20 miles every couple of weeks. Three weeks ago I noticed a slip going from R to D and a little hesitation on shifts between gears. Ended up being three quarts low, looked under the truck and the pan is covered in fluid, filled it and drove 15-20 miles and everything worked fine. Did not want to sell it with a leak so did some research and saw that the pan and filter change was pretty straight forward. Sidenote - my father had already bought a Mopar filter for what I would assume be to go ahead and change it. As I was removing the pan, two of the bolts were much looser than the others (this is probably where the leak was coming from), I think what may have happened was that he got under the truck to do the swap and decided he couldn't get it done and probably tried to retorque the bolts. He was alot weaker because of the illness and the meds than he would admit to.

I decided to proceed with filter change because by the time I got to the two loose bolts most of the others were already out and fluid was already draining. Got the pan off and let the fluid drain for about an hour. Ended up with 10 quarts in the drain pan, everywhere I've looked it's said 5-6 would drain out. Put the new filter on, put the pan back on and started by adding five quarts instead of ten just in case it somehow was previously overfilled. Eventually took ten to fill, drove around the block several times and checked the fluid twice to make sure the level staid consistent. Everything looked good so took it out for a longer drive, took it up to 70 mph with no problems. Drove back into town and had to stop at a redlight, From a dead stop, the engine revved and then truck jumped forward, kept doing that at every dead stop. Parked it and had a good fluid level and no fluid under the truck or on the pan. Had to move the truck but only used reverse and seemed to work fine, about an hour later had to move it back forward and would not move until rpm's got up to 1500, I'm guessing it was stuck in 3rd.
Fast forward to this morning, started the engine and check the fluid cold to make sure it was still good. Check the pan and no leaks. At first would not go into gear but let it sit in neutral for a minute and shifted fine. Drove it around the block several times and got it up to 45 mph, everything was working fine until it warmed up again. Then the rev and hard start from a dead stop started again. Parked it and checked the fluid and was still good.

Truck has 177k miles, engine is completely stock and runs fine with the original injectors. Previous owner installed a shift kit, trailer brake and fifth wheel. Besides that I don't think there are any other modifications. Only thing my father ever towed with it was a camping trailer, decent sized but nothing that truck couldn't handle.

Fluid was dark but still red, a little over an eighth inch of extremely fine sludge on the magnet. So fine that I couldn't feel anything when I rubbed it between my fingers.

Not a diesel guy and definitely not a transmission guy so please forgive the long post, wanted to make sure I gave all the details.
 
How did you check level, in P or in N, idling?

Level on this transmission is most of the time very difficult to read as is smears the fluid all over the dipstick pulling it.
 
Did you happen to check the valve body bolts when you had the filter off? 10 quarts in an hour seems like way too much fluid unless the valve body is dropped down.
 
Did you happen to check the valve body bolts when you had the filter off? 10 quarts in an hour seems like way too much fluid unless the valve body is dropped down.

Did not check that but seemed tight. Nothing moved or changed when I put the new filter in...only thing in hindsight that I may have done was overtorque the screws that hold the filter.
 
DavidC - tried that, added a quart. Made no difference.

By the way, my father, who the truck belonged to, was a Bombardier/Navigator in B-52 G's in the 70's.
Very Cool. Met another at the VA clinic. I was an aircraft electrician, Loved my job and SAC, still do and would do it over again if I could.
 
All VB bolts are set to torque, if you over-torque them you can wrap the valvebody, make internal leaks. Bad things.
 
You changed the fluid and disturbed the crud in the gov housing. Best practice at that age and miles is drop the gov housing and clean it out or replace it with the DNC piece and a new gov pressure sensor. Should have done a fluid exchange also if there was any question about the age of the fluid. Could also be a sticking TV valve as they are a bit finicky about any sludge build up in the VB.
 
You changed the fluid and disturbed the crud in the gov housing. Best practice at that age and miles is drop the gov housing and clean it out or replace it with the DNC piece and a new gov pressure sensor. Should have done a fluid exchange also if there was any question about the age of the fluid. Could also be a sticking TV valve as they are a bit finicky about any sludge build up in the VB.

Ten quarts came out of it, plus the three I put in before the filter change. Granted I didn't get all of the old oil out but it's almost all fresh now. Don't what the DNC piece is.
 
10 quarts is only a little over 1/2 the total, you still have that much more old possibly contaminated fluid in it. Usually use 20 quarts when I do a fluid exchange without a machine.
 
Was finally able to change the pressure transducer and solenoid switch, now I'm getting a P0686 code and driving for five minutes gives me a transmission temp light on the dash. Transmission is in limp mode and starts in third unless I shift down to first or second. Will not downshift when I accelerate. Also getting a P2509 code, knew one of the batteries was on the way out but have not changed them yet. Could the P2509 issue cause problems with the transducer and switch?
Don't have a separate temp gauge on the trans but using a cheapo temp gun that's been accurate gives a temp of 165 on the pan and cooler lines. Outdoor temp here is 85-90.
 
Anyone recall a different Ohm value for the temp sensor on these?

They had two different ranges at some point.

Maybe you got the wrong type?

You should be able to check that via the plug from what I recall, or someone will correct all the above, and it's something with the power to the plug or connector it self.
 
Transducer and solenoid were the same from 1999 thru 2007. Transducer was different prior to 1999 and needed a resistor to function correctly.
 
Fixed the P2509 code with the new battery. On top of the P0686 also got a P0713 plus the temp warning light on the dash. Put the old transducer back on today, drove it and cleared the codes. Downshifting fine now and smooth start from a dead stop. So looks like the verdict is that the old solenoid was bad and the new transducer was bad from the factory. Everything is working like it's supposed to, thanks everyone for the help.
 
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