Shock install help

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Got the rears on without any problem. But the fronts? Removed the air filter for the R side and will be able to get to the top of the shock.
Two questions:
1. Do you have to remove the 3 bolt top support?
2. How do you get to the driver side top part? Pull the engine?
Thanks!
p. s. Changed my signature for a new gentler image and also to comply with the rules of engaugement for this BBS - that is to limit your signature to 2 lines so we don't overload Rob's server.



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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.

 

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Last I heard Rob asked that our signatures be 4 lines or less. Did this change to two??

I know the Ford Website says only two lines (they sent me a nasty email when I made one post) #ad


Sorry can't help you with your shock problem as I still have the stock shocks.

 

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tlippy,

You have to remove the three bolt upper shock mount. The driver's side is a PITA for sure. It's easier if you can push the shocks down as far as possible and wire them that way before taking off the three bolt mount. That will give you some clearance so you can rassle the mounts around until they are free of all the brake lines, wires, hoses, and whatever else lives there.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Originally posted by tlippy:
Got the rears on without any problem. But the fronts?

I did the shocks on my '98 a couple years ago. The rears were, of course, nearly trivial. The fronts, while not trivial, turned out to be fairly simple. And I didn't have to remove anything not directly related to the shocks.

IIRC, I placed the front axle on jack stands, turned the wheels fully to one side, and worked on the side opposite the turn (from the rear of the well).

Remove the bottom bolt. Remove the top nut.
Remove the three nuts/bolts holding the tower in place. Compress the shock and quickly remove the tower. Pull the old shock up and out through the engine compartment; there is (at least on the '98 with RWAL), room to ease the shock upward without needing to move any wiring or lines.

With the new shock still strapped in the compressed position, lower it into place. Bolt the shock tower back into place. Connect the top of the shock to the tower. Cut the strap. Using some convenient lever and fulcrum, maneuver the bottom of the shock into place to install the bottom bolt.

Now apply the proper torque specs to the top and bottom shock mounts and the mounting tower.

Turn the wheels to the other extreme and repeat the above procedure for the other shock.

Remove the jack stands, put your tools away, dispose of the debris, and you are done. If you don't try to rush, and take liberal smoke and beer breaks, it might take a couple hours.

This is essentially what I did, and the shocks are still solidly mounted and tight after 50K miles. Also, IIRC, I used the old nuts as lock nuts on the top of the shocks.

Good luck!

 

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KatDiesel, it's 4 lines, not 2.
Andy

 

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Tom - Do it like fest3er did or pay Les Schwab's and then join us at Wickiup Reservoir on Friday 8AM for the beer and smoke break.

 

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TLippy, fest3er had an easier time with the left front shock on his RWAL equipped Ram than I did with the 4WAL system on mine. If I remember correctly you have the 4WAL system as well. To compound the problem, I installed Edelbrock IAS shocks that are restrained with banding in the compressed position as received from Edelbrock (this is necessary on ALL mono tube high pressure gas shocks). Actually, after removing the three nuts holding the top of the shock tower in place, you can carefully remove the old shock by removing several of the clips between the metal lines and carefully spreading these lines, replacing the new shock between the maze of lines in the same manor. Make sure you tighten the bottom bolt of the shock to spec. first as there can be an excessive amount of play at this location (OR NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO INSTALL THE SHOCK BETWEEN THE AXLE MOUNTING EARS)... having the top unrestrained helps In shock alignment within the mounting ears. Tighten the nut on the upper stem until you have crushed the neoprene or polyurethane bushings to the approximate diameter of the upper and lower washers provided with the shocks. After completing this, install a jam nut atop the previously installed nut on the stem.

Have fun Tom! #ad


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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, plus many other trick modifications

[This message has been edited by John (edited 06-14-2000). ]

 

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Thx Andy, thats what I thought it was. I am currently running about 4 &#189 lines. But I don't use it but about every 5th post.

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (edited 06-14-2000). ]

 

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I put Bilsteins on mine last Oct. I too just loosened a few of the brackets on the driver's side. Fortunatly, I did the right side first because I had to pull the shock back out and file the lower bushing as it was to wide to slip into place. PS, I had just got my 3500 at 62K so I don't know how stock was but the Bilsteins seem to work okay.

 

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Here's the secret for doing the front shocks:
1. loosen/remove the upper shock mount. Important to do this first as the shocks are the limiting factor for droop - see step #2.
2. Jack up the front end and support the truck from the FRAME. This allows the front suspension to fully droop. Remove the front wheels for access.
3. remove the upper shock towers.
4. remove the lower shock bolts
5. remove the shock - I did not have to move/remove anything thing to get the shocks out.
6. install the new shocks - fully extended shouldn't be any problem.
7. install the lower shock bolt
8. install the shock tower - the upper shock mount stud should stick thru the hole in the tower.
9. Lower the truck from the jack stands.
10. Install the upper shock mount bushing.

It's really easy - it only took me two times to figure this out.

Brian

 

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OOPS! After reading Brian's post I forgot to mention that I also elected to jack up the front end with the wheels removed to extend the suspension as far as possible to facilitate easier shock R&R. It's kind of hard to remember every little step taken to accomplish this as I replaced my OE shocks on my '98. 5 Ram at about 3k miles... just as soon as Edelbrock released their IAS shocks for our application, about August 1998. 31k later, I'm still very satisfied with the IAS shocks. As mentioned in a previous post, the Bilstein (high pressure mono tube gas) shocks are another extremely well made shock! They would have been my next choice, as I've used many pairs of these over the years on various projects with excellent results. The trick IAS valving and Edelbrock's excellent customer service are swayed me to try theirs.

Maybe I'm wrong but, I believe both of the front shocks had to be removed and replaced from the top, I don't believe there was enough room to extract them from the bottom.

 

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John,
The shocks are inside the coil springs - the shocks must come out thru the engine compartment.

Tlippy - I forgot, I removed the airbox (& hose to turbo) from the passenger wheelwell to give me a little more room.

I was swapping a set of Edelbrock IAS shocks between vehicles so they were fully extended - no trouble. When I installed them originally I did not jack up the front end and had a heck of a time getting the shock towers installed.


Brian

[This message has been edited by Brian Meadows (edited 06-14-2000). ]

 

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Tlippy. . Just did this with rancho 9000 a week before I Killed ol'#1. . Did not remove the towers at all [not even losened]
I had no problem snaking the right side out the bottom. . left side I jacked and used the stand then put the jack onder the left front axel took off thr sway bar link lowered down the axel so spring came loose and removed the old installed the new in reverse process
was not hard just reaseat spring carfully. .
Gary

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OL' # 1 [now deceased] 98 24v 5sp Qcab 4x4 3500 4. 10, SLT em. grn. , alum. rims235/85/16's. .
Scotty system. . DDIII's & 4 wire box,McLeod Dual Disk,pacbrake,Isspro ga. soon 4"exhust,HX40cm2...
NRA

 

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Thanks to everyone! I'll take this advice and tomorrow to get the job done!

BV - if I get the job done, I'd like to meet with you guys. Nice drive to check out the shocks! Please let me know where you'll be on the lake!

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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.

 

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Come on Brian, give me some credit, I know the shocks are inside the coil springs. #ad
It's been darn near two years since I replaced them.