Shocks ? Which Ones And Part #'s

[seafish]

1-858-386-5900



I have some experience with wireless (not shocks) but with airbags. I installed PacBrake bags with wireless in cab remote control, its an awesome set up but a funny thing about all that is later finding it was overkill for my needs so its all packaged up for someone who could use it, my loss will be their gain after working out the custom install.

Matt, Thanks for the phone #. Im gonna call them some time next week to check out my options. Why dontcha pm with details on your Pac Bag system. ONE OF MY CONCERNS when I add the HID's to my OEM headlights is that when I am loaded, I will need to level the back so that I don't blind other people, so I am curious as to how your air bag kit worked and what you think of the quality of it and also what you want for the system.



I'll probably pm you with more questions aftre you describe it to me:-laf



OOOOPS... I might have to break the promise that I made in the 2009--what is on my NOT-to -do list; https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-list-2009-ends-01-04-09-a-3.html#post2011591 Oh well..... :-laf:-laf

 

[Matt400]

What I did was use the AirLift WirelessAir #ad
as the control for a set of PacBrake air bags. I mounted the wireless module, relay and air solenoid all on one bracket and attached it just forward of the fuel tank here:

#ad




The 2 lines you see to the left are going to the bags, all fittings are push-loc so its all plug-n-play. The air source/input goes to my existing Air Brake tank.

You can program settings into the remote or control it manually as needed. Has a handy visor clip for the remote or just leave it in your console.

 

[ENafziger]

You can program settings into the remote or control it manually as needed. Has a handy visor clip for the remote or just leave it in your console. <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Matt, that's a slick setup! Can you program for a specific ride height? i. e. does it have a ride height sensor?

ENafziger... Those 9100's are a REALLY nice shock, and they DO come with one free revalve from Bilstein. Probably overkill for me , BUT I am wondering--

How do you MOSTLY use your truck?? On road or off road, loaded or unloaded, towing or not??
Are they hard or soft riding, smooth or jarring on pavement and poorly maintained pavement??
Did you have them custom valved??
Bout how much did they set you back??

Well, I MOSTLY drive my truck on road... but as I've found out, you have to have have shocks that can handle your most severe driving. The 9100s come in 2", 2. 5", and 2. 65" diameters... I have the 2. 65s.

They are being marketed now through Carli, but you can purchase them online from various vendors as well.

The valving from Carli is set to handle the worst case offroad you could probably ever through at it. Street manners are firm, but much improved over stock. I'm sure they would valve to your individual needs.

The Carli setup is around $2k for the shocks, and include their special valving and clear powdercoating. You can probably purchase elsewhere for around $1800 and valve them yourself. The shims/plates/etc to valve differently can be purchased VERY cheaply... about $1 - $2 each if I remember right. The downside here is the labor to do so until you get it dialed in right.

I don't tow heavy often, but I do on occasion. I don't offroad aggressively often, but I do on occasion as well. My truck weighs in at around 8,800 lbs, so I really appreciate the extra dampening of these shocks as well.

Just a side note, the 9100s have so much valving, that you have to upgrade the 3-bolt shock tower stud ring, or you stand a good chance of failure.

The other thing worth mentioning here, is it's ALOT easier to bend a front axle housing if you don't have enough shock... and that can be more costly to fix than a good set of shocks in the first place

I'll get some pictures when I get it cleaned up...

--Eric

 

[Grumpy John 4x4]

3" Kings Shocks

I love mine put on by Carli Suspension

 

[LCartier]

which shock should one go to?... oem or aftermarket. aftermarket shocks one brand better then the other? doubt it. if your into offroading getting air hen you install the correct suspension system ie Carli or Kore etc... these kits usually include new coil springs, leaf springs and (key thing here) longer travel shocks. if your current shocks are hooped and you toss on some brand new bils or ranchos or elds or fox or what ever... you can bet the house that your going to see a huge difference! same as you would see if replacing old worn out bald tires for brand new ones!

as for loading up a truck and hitting a small bump and having it bottom out... is that the fault of the shock? hardly, ( you need to add some oveload springs or airbags ) shocks are just that shocks their job is to absorb the bumps etc and give the truck some stability, they don't add lift nor do they allow you over load your truck!

if you have a wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket buy the over-hyped shocks!

you guys with 40k plus miles with bad shocks that have been replaced with the highly rated aftermarket shocks, give us some feedback when get 40k miles on the "highly rated" shocks tells how much better they are.

been there done that... . have run all kinds of "highly rated" shocks they are all the same.

 

[JHMiller]

Stock to Rancho 9000

I broke my 03 in pulling a 3600# dry 19' tandem 5er. Around 13k I started noticing much up and down on the rear axle half way thru a day but the 5er was light and no marks on the bump stops, front or rear. Just after 20k brake in I upgraded to a 24' 5er weighing exactly twice, 7200# dry. Now the shocks were zero after a couple hrs on the interstate. No leaks, no misting even. The next morning the shocks were like brand new for a couple of hrs. On went the 9000s with out in cab control, worked pretty well but what a pain to stop and adjust. Added the in cab control and yahoo, man nice ride. Could adjust for road conditions, temp, load, speed, you name it. (1) BUT I did have to adjust for all of these conditions. (2) The biggest problem adjusting is the huge dump valve provided with the controller, it needs to be a much finer way of dumping the air to help tune the shock. Very easy to dump too much and then you repump and try again, also your pumping fronts and rears at the same time. So if you need to repump say the rears higher than the fronts that you have set, well you also repump the fronts and start again dumping air to get the fronts back to where you want them. You see the 9000s are now infinitely adjustable, there is no more a # of setting. I've got 100k on them and they are starting to feel weird, getting tuff to adjust. No leakage on the rears can't see any on the fronts. It could be the adjuster piston at the bottom of the shock is full of crud. I'll be pulling the covers soon to clean and make sure the pistons are free. I've done the rears before and yes there was crud so I'll pull the front shocks and do them also this time. The 9000s have never felt like they had progressive dampening, I've always had to adjust for all the varying conditions. Perhaps the new controller is more precise adjustment. When you hit them right, they're good. Overall if I had to do it again, I don't think so. I put the pump under the passenger seat and inclosed all the cab exterior air lines in small plastic hose, covered the junctions with underground electric cable splice stuff(aquaseal). I notice they bleed down over night now but no big deal except the big damn dump adjuster valve. One note, don't buy any shock that doesn't have boots or get some to fit or you'll be sorry... John

 

[SShafranko]

I put on 50,000 miles since my post on the first page of this thread, and it is time for new shocks. I myself have herd that Bilsteins are great but they ride a bit rougher that stock. I'm confused about which ones to get. I want a soft and comfortable ride. Don't know if i want to stick with Skyjacker. They were good overall but my stockers outlasted them by 25,000 miles. Any opinions on Skyjacker?

 

[steved]

Just installed skyjacker shocks and steering damper on my truck last night.

I have 100k on my skyjacker nitros, they are just now getting noticeably bad... leave the boots off, they only cause the tops of the shocks to rust.



I have a set of KYBs sitting downstairs for replacements this time... their struts did wonders on my Outback. They offered two kinds, a mono-tube and a twin-tube; and I went the mono-tube route this go around.

 

[WoodChuck]

I just read about some new Koni's in the latest TDR quarterly that might be worth a try.

 

[guldam]

I have KYB's on my 2000 Dakota 4x4. They are much rougher than the stock shocks but the truck handles way better and feels more sure footed. KYB's have life time warranty.

GulDam

 

[joe308]

I replaced the original shocks on my 03 QC 4x4 2500 at about 50k with the yellow and blue Bilsteins from Geno's. The stock shocks were not shot, but seemed to be getting a little soft. Well, for the first few days the Bilsteins seemed great but then the valving seemed to stiffen up and the ride got more harsh. My wife hates to ride in the truck anymore because they transmit rough jolts to the occupants in the cab. They may last forever, but I am not real happy with the ride quality on these units.