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Short Bed to Long bed conversion,, Who can?

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I will have a truck soon that is a short bed, and would like to convert it to a long bed. I would rather not hear "get a long bed to begin with", it is not a possibility.





I would like to use the factory long bed, I just need the frame, suspension, fuel lines, brake lines, electrical, etc. etc. to be dealt with so I can put a long bed box on a truck that was previously a short bed...



Any ideas?





Merrick
 
MCummings said:
I would like to use the factory long bed, I just need the frame, suspension, fuel lines, brake lines, electrical, etc. etc. to be dealt with so I can put a long bed box on a truck that was previously a short bed...

Any ideas?


Merrick
Man! That's a helluva lot of trouble/expense to go through for an extra 1. 5ft in length.

Ever see those bed extenders frame thingies ??? Looks something like a cattle gate.

You let your tailgate down and then install it. It makes your tailgate part of the bed. Not a permanent fix, but it would be ALOT EASIER and less expensive than the route your talking about!

I'll try to find a pic of what I'm talking about.
 
No matter what or how you extend the shortbed box, if you ever plan on having a goose neck or fifth wheel hitch installed it will still need to be mounted over the axle and wouldn't provide the turning clearance a true long bed does. Just food for thought.
 
JStraw said:
No matter what or how you extend the shortbed box, if you ever plan on having a goose neck or fifth wheel hitch installed it will still need to be mounted over the axle and wouldn't provide the turning clearance a true long bed does. Just food for thought.





cut & splice the frame... a little harder to do with the hydraform frame, but not impossable [C channel frame is piece of cake to do. . ]
 
("get a long bed to begin with", it is not a possibility. )



There obviously are some circumstances going on that you choose not to state,

which is fine, but limits our thought processes on your options.



But unless the truck is damaged or wreaked, It would seem to me that

finding a trade would be a much better spent time/money option.



Rich
 
nickleinonen said:
cut & splice the frame... a little harder to do with the hydraform frame, but not impossable [C channel frame is piece of cake to do. . ]

I think for whatever reason, he is just looking at attaching a longbox bed to a shortbox frame. He states "so I can put a long bed box on a truck that was previously a short bed... "



Stretching the frame would be the only safe way to allow adequate room for in-bed hitches. It's just weird to hear of using a short bed truck to mount a long bed box onto. But, if it's a quad cab, he could hack the quad and with a little welding, enclose the cab. And then the long box would easily fit.
 
JStraw said:
But, if it's a quad cab, he could hack the quad and with a little welding, enclose the cab. And then the long box would easily fit.



I don't think so. The location of the rear axle is different on the long box vs the short box. The long box has more overhang. I'm still trying to grasp the intent of this project. It's like trying to make a standard cab truck into a quad cab. Yea, it can be done. There are companies that will take a 2nd gen quad cab and stretch it into a full crew cab, at a huge price. The only reason that they accomplished this is because it was not available any other way. Who would spend the money to develope a short bed to long bed conversion when you can buy a long bed truck from Dodge? I'm not suggesting that Merrick do this as he plainly stated that it's not possible, and I respect that.
 
My guess is MCummings bought a smashed-in-the-rear newer truck at a wrecker price, and needs to replace the bed and frame, so he wants to go long bed.



You need long driveshaft with center support, exhaust pipe lengthening, and all wires, brake lines, fuel lines, lengthened. I dont know if the steering knuckles are any different to compensate for the longer wheel base or not.
 
I go to work, and come back to check on this thread, and look what happens! LOL



I want the frame stretched, and axle moved to accomodate an OEM long bed.



Here is why,



Later this year, with my current income status, I will be able to put a sizeable down payment on a 2007 Mega Cab Dually.



Make more sense now?



I don't want to have to do any modifications (besides some mounting brackets) to an OEM long Bed. I want to pick up a Take Off Dually bed, and put it right on my Mega Cab and have it look factory.





Thanks,

Merrick
 
MCummings said:
I don't want to have to do any modifications (besides some mounting brackets) to an OEM long Bed. I want to pick up a Take Off Dually bed, and put it right on my Mega Cab and have it look factory.



The frame is curved above the springs so you need to splice in an extra section up front where it's straight, and a custom driveshaft. The driveshaft should be lengthened in the short section. If you lengthen the long section it may start to flex into resonance and blow up on the freeway. If in doubt, you may need to go to three sections.

The frame stress in the middle part of the wheelbase becomes tremendously higher when you lengthen it (even 20 inches). Talk to an engineer or a limo stretching place for recommendations, but I would suggest you use a spliced-in section at least 50% thicker (wall thickness) than the stock frame, and overlap with gussets for a foot or two on each side of the splice.
 
betterthanstock said:
The frame is curved above the springs so you need to splice in an extra section up front where it's straight, and a custom driveshaft. The driveshaft should be lengthened in the short section. If you lengthen the long section it may start to flex into resonance and blow up on the freeway. If in doubt, you may need to go to three sections.

The frame stress in the middle part of the wheelbase becomes tremendously higher when you lengthen it (even 20 inches). Talk to an engineer or a limo stretching place for recommendations, but I would suggest you use a spliced-in section at least 50% thicker (wall thickness) than the stock frame, and overlap with gussets for a foot or two on each side of the splice.



X 2 on this. i agree fully.

Grant
 
betterthanstock said:
Talk to an engineer or a limo stretching place for recommendations, but I would suggest you use a spliced-in section at least 50% thicker (wall thickness) than the stock frame, and overlap with gussets for a foot or two on each side of the splice.





Good info, exactly what I was looking for, and that is exactly what I need to do! :D I am not going to do this myself. I will be doing all the motor work because I know how, but I don't know how to stretch a frame, and all that is involved, all though I am heavily interested on everything that needs to be done.



Who is a good Limo stretching place? Distance is not the biggest issue, as I can have the truck delivered to a nearby dealer, and have the limo company pick it up. I just want a good job. I hate driveline vibrations, and have seen what they can do in the long run,, and the long run is how long I plan to keep it. Exhaust system,, well that's a given. Single 7" stack in the bed with an ultra low profile. Fuel system,, probably pushloc lines with a RASP. Brake lines,, I'll let the Limo company deal with that, electrical,, same thing.



With the Exhaust system in the bed, do yall think I should put a fuel tank along the pass side frame as well? That should give me another 20-25 gallons... It would be great to have a 700+ mile range on a tank, but refilling would require calling my loan officer, LOL.



I was thinking of doing a custom long arm (control arm) conversion in the front and putting it on airbags, while 4-linking the rear with air bags,, not so much for show, but for leveling and height adjustment. If I could have it sitting low on the highway for mileage, and higher for what little offroading the truck will be able to do, that would be the cats meow.



The only other thing I am seriously looking into is suiciding the rear doors and removing all door handles.





Merrick
 
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