Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Should Crankcase Vent Filter be serviced?

[TMoran]

I see the crankcase Vent Filter at Geno's and on the truck.
Should it be serviced?
How is it removed?
PapaTom

 

[JR]

A quarter turn CCW to remove it. They are really nothing more than wire mesh packed in the housing. If your tube vents right in front of your radiator you may want to think about relocating it. It is a poor set up and the fan kicks the oil vapor around and packs oil/dirt in the back side of the radiator. In extreme cases it will cause overheating. No way to tell how bad it is without pulling the rad from the truck.

 

[Sticks]

No, you can actually look in from the top of the shroud and see how bad it is. Good thing is that with the right tools, it's a 30 minute job to R&R, and another 15 at the car wash to clean it.

A lot of threads here on the crank case vent. Some put a sock over the puke bottle, some add a hose so it gets lower to the ground and away from the fan. Do a search and read up on it.

The only time one would have to service the "filter" is if they have not changed the oil in some 30k miles and it's not so much oil as it is sludge.

 

[TMoran]

Thank you for the accurate "over night service" on the vent question. I cleaned the vent and hose then extended it with two feet of 3/4 radiator hose to the driver side frame. One hole is big enough. PapaTom

 

[JR]

No, you can actually look in from the top of the shroud and see how bad it is. Good thing is that with the right tools, it's a 30 minute job to R&R, and another 15 at the car wash to clean it.

I wouldn't want to have to deal with the owner of a car wash and have to explain why I felt it was necessary to wash an oil saturated radiator over top of his drain, but to each his own.

 

[Sticks]

I wouldn't want to have to deal with the owner of a car wash and have to explain why I felt it was necessary to wash an oil saturated radiator over top of his drain, but to each his own.

And they put the engine degreaser in the switch options for washing why?

 

[SAndreasen]

Not only that I always blow any grease oil off the wall and clean it up so you cant tell I was there no worse than when somebody leaves 2 feet of mud on the floor

 

[SAndreasen]

I had one that looked clean but it wasn't it plugged so tight the fan clutch wouldn't work and didn't look bad at all buy doing the look test

 

[SAndreasen]

A big can of ether works good to clean the breather then let it dry and reinstall

 

[JR]

And they put the engine degreaser in the switch options for washing why?

What you get away with and what the owner is unaware of is not the same, I'm sure. If you get away with it, more power to ya.

 

[JR]

I had one that looked clean but it wasn't it plugged so tight the fan clutch wouldn't work and didn't look bad at all buy doing the look test

My point exactly.

 

[KATOOM]

The blowby vent catch catching design was not thought through very well. As the oily blowby air is pumping out, the engine fan blows it all over the place. And because the engine fan isnt as efficient as you'd think, the oily air circulates back around the radiator and clings to the fins, attracting more dirt and debris. Over time this can literally clog a radiator but is very difficult to see since the shroud and the intercooler prevent easy access to viewing. You really have to remove the radiator to get full access.

That said, I'd shy from using a power washer on the radiator since power washers arent good for delicate surfaces. Power washers build immense water pressure for blowing oil, grease, and dirt away but they also use very little water volume too. For this reason you have to get the tip of the washer very close and thats when you easily blow the radiator fins over, flattening them out. And thats obviously bad. With the radiator out, spray a can of engine degreaser on the fins and give it a few minutes. Not too long either as degrease will eat thin aluminum, and then just use a garden hose to wash the fins clean.

Running an extension of 3/4" rubber hose back away from the fan is best and there's no need to use a catch can either since a properly running motor and functioning vacuum pump will have very little oil exiting the hose. So maybe a single drip may be all you get over long periods of time. But the main thing you want to take care of is assuring that the length of hose is running flat or pointing downward with no dips or sags low enough to allow the oily air to puddle and collect moisture or oil and eventually block the venting. That can cause engine seals to pop.

 

[TMoran]

Thank you for the complete run down on this system. PapaTom

 

[gtwitch]

I did the extension to the vent tube on my 99 2500 when I got the truck used 2003 and used a piece of 1/2 emt which fits exactly into the rubber tube that was extending from the vent housing and with some minor bending with a conduit bender, one can get the vapors to go where you want. I have the most well lubricated front diff cover of anyone, but there is hardly ever a drip on the pavement.

gtwitch in wyoming

 

[TMoran]

I used the "no bottle" method also but with a 3/4 inch radiator hose to the driver frame rail. PapaTom