Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Should I dump my DD clutch?

[MrDiesel]

The truck: 98 QC-SB-12V w/ NV-5600 6-speed. Custom plate, custom injectors (370s or better), 191s, AFE, HX35 w/18cm housing (for now). It has an EEP dual disk clutch in it right now.



The problem: Does not engage into low gear/reverse very good. Feels like clutch is dragging. After talking w/ EEP and the previous owner (who did all the mods) it sounds like the center disk is probably broken. I have purchased another.



The question: Do I need this clutch? How about a SBC Con-Fe? I've been reading some posts about the SBC and I think it might be for me. I don't like the jerky engagement of the EEP dd, and the pedal is just a little stiff. I'm not set up to (nor do I have the knowledge) to change the center disk myself, and I'm having trouble finding some one to work on it (that I trust). I don't plan on doing much (if any) pulling, just the ocasional towing of 5-10K pounds. If I do switch does my EEP have any value used? Whatcha think?

 

[bmoeller]

Have you tried bleeding out any air in the hydraulic setup? Wouldn't be able to fully release the clutch if there was.

 

[zstroken]

I might be interested in that clutch if you don't want it. PM me and we can talk about it

 

[Matthug]

The con FE is good for 550 HP which you aren't even close too, and is nice for towing and pulling also.

 

[RLaMarr]

at your power level the con FE would be a great clutch I run the EEP DD and love it but my power level is up there. I would sell the DD and get the South Bend.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Mr Diesel you might try pumping your clutch pedal rapidly about 10 times then try it. I have to do that every 2-3 days with my '96 otherwise shifting gets a little difficult.



BTW is your truck 4x4 or 2-wheel drive? I'm joining the 4x2 club by picking up a '98 12v shortbed 4x2 this Sunday



Vaughn

 

[MrDiesel]

I'm hoping to try bleeding it as soon as I get a Sat. off, but I'm pretty sure it's the center disk after talking w/EEP and the way it acts. I'm going to look at SBC right now to get some more info on them. ALSO... If I keep this truck I'm thinking about a Sled Puller 66 to get those EGTs down (they are out there) this won't put me too high on HP will it?

 

[MrDiesel]

BTW is your truck 4x4 or 2-wheel drive? I'm joining the 4x2 club by picking up a '98 12v shortbed 4x2 this Sunday



It's a 4X4... ... .

 

[MrDiesel]

After my "research" I'm a little confused... SBCs site says early 6-speeds should up grade to a 13" disk. EEPs site says their DD set up fits all 6-speeds (dosen't specify a year that would need the 13" fly wheel up grade).

 

[Todd T]

Call SBC direct. How does the pedal feel for engagement? does it engage right off the carpet or do you have about 1-2" before the truck starts to move/it grab. That's a good indicator your dragging or not fully disengaging if it right on the carpet. they (SBC) sell an adjustable linkage rod for this problem or you can upgrade to the newer slave/master cylinder kit if havent already.



Hell you're right there, drive it by and let Peter hot lap it.

 

[MrDiesel]

It's more like all the way out as opposed to right off the floor. I see no way of bleeding this thing out? Ya their not too far from me maybe 20 mins. I just want to be heading down the right path here before I knock on some ones door. The guy I talked to at EEP says it's the center disk b/c of the way it acts and it has no chatter with the pedal pushed in. Also I don't want to get rid of a good clutch if I might need it to hold when I get a new turbo (leaning towards a Sled Puller 66/14)...

 

[Highfinance97]

If the center disk is not the problem i would really recomend the master and slave upgrade that SBC sells. i put it on mine after i put in my SBC 3850 DD and it improved my pedel A LOT i love it Heavy duty adjustable

hydraulic assembly



(scroll at the bottom of the page)



Michael

 

[pwerwagn]

Wow, I bet your EGT's are freekin hot with that setup!!!



A Con-Fe should hold even when you go to the SP66. You will probably be much happier with it than the DD for a driver. If the hydraulics have a lot of miles on them, you may wanna replace those too while you are doing the clutch. Nice peace of mind, if nothing else.



And about the 13" 6-speed thing, I *believe* all 6-speeds do have the 13", but some of the 6-speeds dont use the 1-3/8" input. (someone correct me if i'm wrong... ) So, you can get the same DD clutch for the 1-1/4" or the 1-3/8", depending on what you have. Although, if you have teh 1-1/4" and the need for a DD clutch, the 1-1/4" probably wont last long under hard use.



--Jeff

 

[MrDiesel]

Wow, I bet your EGT's are freekin hot with that setup!!!



--Jeff

Ya I have heat issues right now! I'm still learning about all this stuff. I talked to the previous owner he said it's an 1-3/8 shaft but a 12" clutch, and the fly wheel is drilled for it so I'll need a new one of those too. The truck has 150K on it now. I need to look at the numbers I don't want to spend a bunch of $ to get rid of a great clutch... what kind of value doen my DD have used?

 

[DPS]

It is worth what ever you can get someone to pay... . that being said most used eep or hmr clutches are usually about 1000-1200 well used and needing some repair if you would get it out and get it repaired its probably worth 1200-1600 depending on the condition of the discs. If it only needs a floater plate and the rest is in reasonably good shape it shouldn't cost more that a couple hundred to have a nearly new clutch.



Josh



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