Should I or shouldn't I have the rotors turned??

[RamThatStroker]

I'm getting ready to do a front brake job on my truck and was wondering if I need to get the rotors turned or not. Also, I wondering if I need to do anything special with the calipers and other brake components while doing the brake job. I've done brake jobs in the past on my old 73 GMC but this is the first brake job for my 95. Any info would be appreciated.



Thanks,

Joe

 

[illflem]

My feeling is that the only time you need the rotors turned is if they are scored. I just take the graze off with sandpaper. Turning them otherwise just shortens the life. The only thing I've found different on the Ram brakes is that it's best to open the bleed screw when retracting the piston, if you force it closed with a c-clamp you run the risk of damaging the master cylinder.

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Turning them otherwise just shortens the life.

I agree 100% with illflem. I expect this truck to be arround a long time. Once you turn them,that metals gone . Don't do it unless absolutely needed. Make sure your rear brakes are adjusted properly. If the rears are out of adjustment ,the load will be on front rotors/pads all the time. Mine were way out of wack when I first checked them . I now pull drums and check them every oil change [5000 miles]

 

[Tom W]

I talked to Sam Peterson yesterday about my truck with 90K miles. He advised turning the rotors even if it only required . 003.

This was my first conversation with Sam and he impressed me with his knowledge and advice. He sounds a lot like Bill Kondolay, straight talk- no B S.

I ordered pads, caliper rebuild kits for less than $50, he pays the shipping. TDR member special. His phone # is 360 357 4958.

It would be hard to beat a deal like that.

Tom

 

[Bob Wagner]

Tom W is right on!

Sam Peterson is the brake system Guru of the TDR



If you have any questions regarding brakes check the TDR archive and use sam peterson in the member search box.



Always great reading

 

[Joe G.]

I have never turned mine and I have 172K miles on it. Two pad replacements so far. It still stops straight. If I find I need the rotors turned I will replace them instead. If you have not replaced the stock rear wheel cylinders with the ones the fit the 3500 you should do so. That helps a lot. It's a direct bolt on replacement. Keep the rear wheel brakes adjusted, don't depend on the so-called automatic adjusters. I adjust mine every oil change.

 

[RonaldLarson]

No rotor turn?

Ain't a real brake job. There is not a rotor which has been used that is still flat. There is not used rotor surface that is compatible with new pads. Rotors which are turned OFF the axle are not compatible with the truck.

Our dealership turns all 4X4 front brakes on the truck, and we turn all rotors (even new ones) before we will mount pads. New rotors are usually NOT flat. We have learned from thousands of brake jobs: do it right, or refuse to do it.

Ron

 

[illflem]

RamThatStroker, confused yet? Flip a coin

 

[RamThatStroker]

Dazed and Confused

Guys,



thank you for the advice but like illflem stated I am confused and still don't know if I should have the rotors turned or not. I never new that they could turn your rotors while there still on the truck and that it matters if there turned on the truck or off the truck. I think I need to get a beer to help me make a decision



Joe

 

[Bob Wagner]

Why be Shy?

Instead of flipping the coin use it to call sam peterson 360 357 4958



The call should be less than $1. 00

 

[CharlieMiller]

Confused

Joe,

I can see why you are confused but I would give Sam a call - What do you have to lose? And have a cold one for me.

 

[Joe Mc]

RamThat - If they aren't pulling and the rotors aren't scored/really glazed or don't have smooth ridges in em` don't do it. I had a severe pull to the right on mine, rotors looked excellent (bought truck @ 75 k might have been replaced? unsure) but anyway, purchased loaded Wagner reman'd calipers $50 each and both l & r hoses didn't cut rotors. Stops very straight. I agree with the rest as far as cutting shortens life if they are not gouges etc. Also I agree with the one fellow to cut new ones regardless and definitly have them cut on the truck if you must cut.



Heck grab another beer

 

[illflem]

Though I highly respect Sam and Ron's opinions I wouldn't turn them unless they need it. 162k and on the third set pads without turning for me. To be done correctly they should be done on the truck, not something every place can do. For turning on the truck you may be stuck with the dealer, you know what a mess they can make of things.

 

[BK]

For all my time as a shade tree mechanic I've found that the real answer was. .



If they're cracked or deeply groved past their min thickness or heat scored badly or run out exceeds the specs... and the cutting the run out - out , exceeds the min thickness ,,,,, get new rotors. .



If you check run out with the rotors on the vehicles and the surface is lightly grooved and not near the min thickness. . and no cracks are seen and no over heating. . keep em as is.

Even if you have them cut to just get ride of the lite scoring, in 5K miles you'll have new lands... and less meat on the rotors. .

The new pads will set into the lite grooves in 100 miles or soo.



If run out is over spec, and they're gonna be close on min thickness, get new rotors.



If run out is over spec, and there's plenty of meat on the rotors and you'll have plenty of meat on the rotors left afterwards... cut them... . which I hate todo, but these things arent cheap on our truck.



The rotor needs to get rid of the heat generated during braking... to thin and it can fail on a hard stop... crack, or just wrap badly ruining a long trip.



I know our rotors (hub assy) arent cheap. .

On my cheapo trucks I've had in the past. . the rotor disks were so cheap that I made them the part of every other front brake job. I've never had a set of new aftermarket rotors have bad run out.



just my $. 02 about rotors and what I've found that contributes to a good brake job for me.

 

[sam peterson]

Thanks for all the kind words again guys---Turning the front rotors on these trucks is strickly a judgement call. If they are in good shape, leave them alone. I recommended that Tom W turn his because it is a 2x4 and they are easy to pull off. Lets face it if you want a perfect job you can't beat a nice smooth surface for the pads to seat into and if you use carbomets you won't get much wear anyhow. Have a great Thanksgiving everyone and give thanks that we all own CTD----Sam

 

[Koa Man]

The Dodge factory service manual says NOT to turn the rotors unless they are scored.

 

[1tuffram]

This is dumb question, but how do you know if the rotors are scored. What's the difference between scored and glazed??? What does each of these conditions look like. I noticed a patchy "build-up" of some kind on my rotors. I was thinking they where glazed, but maybe not. Maybe they are scored?

 

[Koa Man]

I usually run my fingernail across the rotor and if I feel any imperfections in the surface I would have them turned. I assume this is what "scored" means. Otherwise, I would just get some sandpaper and sand off the "glaze. "

 

[Lube Man]

Scoring is good!

Gotta get my 2 cents in! I have yet to replace the brakes on my 99 at 50K miles. Probably will go to 75K. However, my 1982 Peugeot turbodiesel died at 269K with rotors never turned. My 1980 Mercedes diesel has 250K with rotors never turned. These cars along with the Dodge have beefy rotors that do not warp like many of the Japanese cars. Yes they do score but the new pads soon adjust to the scores and you actually get more braking surface. So I will never turn a rotor unless it shows indication of warping. Lube Man's Web Page

 

[RKohn]

Took a lot of work to get mine turned...

Driver's side caliper stuck. Thanks DC, for not using enough grease. Left me a couple small grooves but plenty of rotor to turn.



Took the rotors to Pep Boys cause they had a good price. Came back to pick them up and they said they were out of spec so they couldn't turn them. I asked them to show me the spec. It was in their raybestos(they wanna sell new ones anyway) book, in metric. I showed them the min thickness cast in the rotor which was in inches. Their caliper wouldn't read inches. I wouldn't have suggested they try doing the math to convert. Out the door I go.



Next went to a local parts shop. The guy looks at the rotor, but they didn't have a micrometer that would open that big. Lucky I brought my own calipers. He takes a reading and says sure we'll do'em. 15 minutes later he's on the phone, can't do it. Didn't have a big enough center adapter.



3rd time works like a charm and NAPA rules!!! Dropped'em off. They said a couple hours and they were a 1/2 mile from a golf course. I had no problem killing 2 hours. Came back and they were turned with no problems and metal to spare.



Even better was lifetime premium pads were 20% off. Took back the ones I bought at Pep Bozos.