Should We Install a Fuel Pressure Gauge?

[KWAYNE]

I didn’t know if anyone has had any problems with the 6. 7 transfer pump yet. Is it necessary to install a fuel gauge on the 6. 7 or do we not need to worry about it on this truck.

 

[WGoudy]

Don't know the status on problems, but for what it's worth i just installed Rail and Lift pump gauges today. Runs about 9psi on the supply side, with drop of a pound or so when on it WFO. Rail pressure runs about 22,500 max stock (with plug instead of rail relief valve) and up to at least 28,500 with the MP8 at max.

 

[jelag]

all of my 5. 9's have been changed to in tank pumps with several hundred thousands of miles on the trucks with no problems... we're not going to worry about the 6. 7... BTW, no pressure gauges...

 

[Cattletrkr]

There is no way you can change the fuel filter effectively w/o a pressure gauge. I have had one go 25,000 miles and one less than 500.

I will be putting one of mine if/when it gets here. I don't worry about the in tank pump so much as the fuel filter.

 

[JDiepstra]

Plus gauges are cool. I love the triple pillar mount.

 

[CKelley1]

cattletrker is correct change the fuel filter by the gauge it not only works better it saves money

 

[HWork]

What type and were are you guys getting these fuel psi guages?

 

[Cattletrkr]

Don't know the status on problems, but for what it's worth i just installed Rail and Lift pump gauges today. Runs about 9psi on the supply side, with drop of a pound or so when on it WFO. Rail pressure runs about 22,500 max stock (with plug instead of rail relief valve) and up to at least 28,500 with the MP8 at max.

RP in a 6. 7?

 

[CKelley1]

i assemble my own out of junk mostly just put a quad commander in one i start out with a 18 "greasegun hose to a banjo bolt from geno's garage then a home made snubber ,a oil gauge copper line kit and a 15 lb gauge of choice do a search on snubber and several suppliers will show up, i just added a hose and snubber to the commander because they are having large # of failures in the sending units because of vibration

 

[Cattletrkr]

I installed mine a couple days ago. I don't know if something's wrong with the gauge or what. No pressure with key on and engine off, ever. Once started, gauge goes up to 3psi. Instead of going down when I accelerate, it goes up. Maybe as high as 5 or so. I put the banjo bolt right on the CP3, same line I had it on in my '04. 5 just the other end. It's the one just above the FCA.

Did I somehow screw something up? Isolator is bled, line to the gauge is full of antifreeze. Not much else to go wrong.

It did take quite a while to bleed the line from the CP3 to the isolator. A few minutes. Methinks I might have a plugged filter already.

 

[Diesel Manor]

Hi Cattletrkr,

If you used the banjo on the CP3, that's the return line (fuel returning to the tank). The line above it is the supply line (from the filter). It has 2 STAR quick detach fittings on either end of the hose. Unfortunately you can not easily tap into it. We've been working on a replacement line w/ a "T" in it for this purpose, but it's not all that easy. We wanted to use the same QD fittings but cannot find a source for them. The std. Dorman fitting will not fully engage the nipple, so it will not stay on. Anyway, to summarize, we're recommending that you use a tapped banjo bolt on the other side of the filter housing (the feed to the filter from the tank). I realize what everyone thinks, that this will not help you with filter change intervals, as mentioned above, but it's so far the only solution. It will give you pressure from the fuel pump though. That's a bigger concern.



we're going to be doing this exact install tomorrow (6/13/08) and this weekend we'll have full instructions on our site here: DieselManor - Installation Sheets

to include all of the other information people have come to rely upon us for including Pyro t/c, boost connection, Trans sender location, and all wiring. In the mean time, if you need some info/pics, give me a push and I can email them to you or anyone else. My direct email is: -- email address removed --

 

[Cattletrkr]

If you used the banjo on the CP3, that's the return line (fuel returning to the tank). The line above it is the supply line (from the filter). It has 2 STAR quick detach fittings on either end of the hose. Unfortunately you can not easily tap into it.

Figures. Thanks for the info. Guess I shoulda looked a little harder as to where that line goes.

 

[Diesel Manor]

We'll have pics on our install sheets page today. DieselManor - Installation Sheets

If you need pics before that just shoot me an email.

 

[Diesel Manor]

We'll have pics on our install sheets page today. DieselManor - Installation Sheets



If you need pics before that just shoot me an email.

 

[Diesel Manor]

BTW, with the gauge sender installed where we did it, you should be reading around 9-10PSI at idle.

 

[CUMMINZ]

I have waited a year to make major changes to my 6. 7L. 3 weeks ago I installed an MP8. Drove 2000 miles with MP8 wide open. My rig grosses 23k. My average figured mpg was in the mid 9s. Kicked an engine code running in 5th up a long WV mountain. Had code turned off in CO. "Low fuel line pressure".



Removed MP8. Loadded up to 26,440#s with load of red Colorado rock. Drove another 3000 miles and still averaged mid 9s mpg. MP8 has done nothing for my milage.



Went by TS Performance shop. Dennis replaced chip and harness. Ran 2 more tank fulls out of truck with this same load. Still averages mid 9s.



MP8 has done nothing for economy.



Kicked another code in TN. Same low fuel pressure code.

 

[Cattletrkr]

It has 2 STAR quick detach fittings on either end of the hose. Unfortunately you can not easily tap into it. We've been working on a replacement line w/ a "T" in it for this purpose, but it's not all that easy. We wanted to use the same QD fittings but cannot find a source for them.

The line is available thru Dodge, roughly $25. Not a real high demand item so it would probably take a few days to get one.
Do you know what size the line is? It's kinda tough to get in there and measure. Wouldn't it work to cut the line in the middle and attach either a compression fitting or simply a nipple and put the "T" there? I haven't tried yet because my truck is my only vehicle, makes it kinda hard to remove the line and drive to the parts store.

The std. Dorman fitting will not fully engage the nipple, so it will not stay on.

That's funny because the dealer parts guy had a box full of misc Dorman fittings. Nothing in any of his lists said what size goes on our trucks. I was hoping to buy a couple from him but he wouldn't sell them. "I don't know if I can sell these, they're not really for sale. They're just shop supplies. " Ummm... . OK, whatever.

 

[WStephens]

I installed my gauge after I finished the installation of a 2 micron filter and big hose kit from GDP. I had the line tapped after the second filter and used it to let me know that one or both filters are plugging up. My gauge shows 9. 5-10 psi at idle and most of the time cruising it will be around 8 psi and I can pull it down to 5 psi WOT.



My truck was equipped with the in tank lift pump and so far has not been a problem

 

[Diesel Manor]

We purchased those lines in an attempt to see if we could retrofit them with a "T". The problem is that they are rubber coated, w/ a nylon inner tubing inside. The Star fittings (dorman style) are pressed on each end. To get a "T" in this fuel line, we would have to press it in the tube, something not that easy to do. It's hard to explain w/o seeing it, but honestly, it's not easy or worth the trouble, plus, doing so would make a small restriction in the already small ID hose. I think the hose measured 5/16" inside. Real small. You wouldn't think so by looking at the outside diameter, but if you cut one open you'll see they are really small inside. A normal dorman fitting does not work either. We couldn't get them to push on all the way to make the locking clip engage. And if we could, you can't get a QD tool on it afterwards to remove the line. You'd have to unscrew the metal barb fitting and do it on the workbench. A real nightmare we've found. The right way to make a new hose w/ a "T" is to use the same Star brand fittings, something that we have been unable to source. The best way to connect a FP gauge is to go before the filter as in the image below. I'm sure someone will eventually come out with a big line kit for it, but for now the tapped banjo is the best way.



#ad




If you purchase a gauge kit with the fuel pressure gauge we'll make sure you get the banjo bolt with the right angle fitting to make this work.

 

[Cattletrkr]

I think the hose measured 5/16" inside. ... The right way to make a new hose w/ a "T" is to use the same Star brand fittings, something that we have been unable to source.

You are correct, a 5/16" hose is what is needed. Although you don't need new STAR fittings. I removed the factory hose and slid a 5/16" hose right over the nipples on the CP3 and the filter housing. 4" hose clamps, 1 T, 2 nipples, and one fitting to attach the gauge line to and I'm all done. It's not as nice and pretty as a simple T would have been, but no leaks so far.

FP at idle is about 10. 5psi