Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Shreading belts

[schmerster]

I just got done killing my KDP and replacing the radiator, hoses, and belt. The old belt had 2 ribs shreaded off, and the new one is riding on the back of the AC pulley. It looks like the AC compressor is lined up OK, and the tensioner pulley bearings are tight. The pulley is worn a bit, but turning it around didn't help.



What is wrong? Is the tensioner twisting? Or should I be looking elsewhere?

 

[tp0d]

check the alignment of the belt on the tensioner. with the motor off the belt should be almost 1/8" in from the front side of the pulley. If you havent changed it in ~50k miles, its a relatively cheap part, and easy to replace. The belt can also ride off the pulley if the sleeve bearings in the arm are worn. Getting stuck because of a 50$ part isnt worth it. Make sure the replacement has a 1/2" square drive instead of a 3/8" cus the 1/2" is much easier to work with...



good luck



-j

 

[schmerster]

Is there an after-market tensioner?

 

[BV]

Is there an after-market tensioner?

Practical Solution Diesel Products has the pulley available.

 

[RVPILOT]

shredded belt

This sounds obovious but are the count on the ribs on the piulleys all the same? I bought a rebuilt alternator recently and the pulley was 6 ribs not 8 needlsley to say it shredded the two ribs of the belt, the parts house where I bought it says the book calls for a 6 rib and that's all they stock. had to buy a pulley to replace the one that came with the alt. guess what? the alt went out at about 10,000 miles went back for a exchange, no problem except the 2nd rebuilt had 6 ribs, so much for rebuilts, I hope this one lasts. stormy

 

[schmerster]

I checked that when I was laying under the truck scratching my head trying to figure it out. I'm going to pick up a new tensioner on the way home tonight. I'll post the results.

 

[schmerster]

Got the new tensioner today. Everything lines up great, so the sleeve bearing must have been worn out. Now if I can just get the track bar to stop moving...

 

[tp0d]

This sounds obovious but are the count on the ribs on the piulleys all the same? I bought a rebuilt alternator recently and the pulley was 6 ribs not 8 needlsley to say it shredded the two ribs of the belt, the parts house where I bought it says the book calls for a 6 rib and that's all they stock. had to buy a pulley to replace the one that came with the alt. guess what? the alt went out at about 10,000 miles went back for a exchange, no problem except the 2nd rebuilt had 6 ribs, so much for rebuilts, I hope this one lasts. stormy

Hmm. . sounds like theyre givin you an alt for a gasser. . the new alt should come with the exact same pulley as your dead one, or i`d take it right back to the parts shop,... Youre paying for the pulley/alt, it should be the right one, no?





schmerster:: did you get a Dayco replacement with the 1/2" drive lug for adjustment? I picked that one up a few months back, very painless job. .



-jerry

 

[Joe G.]

My idler pully is still the original with 231 K miles on it. I have rigged up a simple home made tool to make changeing the belt easy. I use a 3/8" breaker bar, a short piece of steel tubing (about two feet) I happened to have in my junk, and a piece of PVC pipe. I cut the PVC so that the end with the bell for the joint is on it. So I pull the pully over with the steel tubing as a cheater on the breaker bar. Then slip the piece of PVC on the end of the tubing so that it goes up past the side of the hood. That holds the idler just fine and the PVC doesn't mar the paint on the hood.

 

[schmerster]

schmerster:: did you get a Dayco replacement with the 1/2" drive lug for adjustment? I picked that one up a few months back, very painless job. .

I used the OEM part. It was cheaper ($100) than the aftermarket parts ($130 - 150), and faster to get. The 3/8" drive is fine for me - 1/2" would be a little easier to use, but not worth the extra $$$.



-Doug

 

[tp0d]

100$? wow... I got mine from my local auto parts store (i no like chains), for about 50-60$. . my original said 'dayco' the replacement was the same, but the name was stamped in a diff place. .



By OEM, do you mean you went to the $dealer$... ?



-j

 

[JohnE]

Got the new tensioner today. Everything lines up great, so the sleeve bearing must have been worn out. Now if I can just get the track bar to stop moving...

Local (to me) diesel shop has noticed the problem lies in the tensioner failing not the plastic pulley & bearings.



Original still tracking true at 115k miles.

 

[Willie G]

Changing the belt without a breaker bar.

I do not have a 3/8" breaker bar, mine is a 1/2". I also did not have a cheater pipe with me yesterday when I changed my belt. So I used a 3/8" drive ratchet, yes the small one. I find that it is really quite easy to move the idler from underneath the truck! Just lie under the front and with your right hand lift the idler with the ratchet and put the belt over the A/C pulley with your left hand. Even with the small ratchet I doubt I had to push up more than about 70-80 lbs. The advantage is that there is plenty of room and it is easy, if you do not mind being on your back under the truck.