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Shut down temps. Pre turbo & post

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Bomb Run #1 (Edge EZ Box) Results

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Just wondering if anybody with pyro's in both pre and post turbo could tell me what the EGT's are pre turbo once they've lowered to 300 post turbo?

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2001 3500 4x4 Q. C 6spd H. O Patriot Blue 3. 54 l. s. d
Greig
 
Not sure, but a good rule of thumb is no longer idle time than 5 minutes on the extreme runs, and no less that 3 minutes on average runs.

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2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, DDI's, straight piped, boost, pyro and fuel pressure gages, Hot Power Edge, EZ box, race transmission, Barry Grant fuel system, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires, Snap On diamond tool box, Marine Corps window sticker, Semper Fi!

1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple Black, 340 car w/air. Good clean car, super stock springs, Weld Prostars, shaker hood, strong 340 with a 727/4000 stahl, 4. 56... . Bombs away!
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I recall an earlier post from someone who had both gauges. His biggest surprise was that the pre-turbo cooled off much faster than the post turbo. So just give it some amount of extra time (1 to 3 minutes???) after your pre-turbo numbers are acceptable before you shut down. Suggest you search for that older response if someone doesn't step forward with exactly the info you need.
 
MagIf you are stock that should work. Problem is that the pre vs post turbo temps vary with the amount of boost the turbo is producing and it is not linear. In higher boost apps the differential may be up to 350-400°F. The amount of work the turbo does determines the temp differential.

J-eh
 
Rather than guess when the turbo is cool enough to shut down,would it be better to install the pyro post turbo and add 250-300 degrees for my pre turbo temps when I'm running hard?

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2001 3500 4x4 Q. C 6spd H. O Patriot Blue 3. 54 L. S. D U. S Gear exhaust brake
Greig
 
I have my Westach EGT gauge installed 'post' turbo. I was surprised to find, after my gauge intall, that the temps took longer to get to 300 degrees than I had been leaving it idle before the gauge install. It hovers around 350-325 degrees for about 30-45 seconds, then drops to 300 when I then I shut it off. It does takes longer to get to 300 since I installed my 'EZ. '
 
I noticed last summer that with my pyro installed pre turbo and the AC on, it sometimes was impossible to drop below 300*, the SPA indicated a steady 310 -320*. I learned to turn off the AC and then let her cool down.
A second thought on turbos. Don't touch the throttle for the last couple minutes prior to shutdown, you want the turbo to be turning the slowest it can (it is still turning over 10,000 RPM if it is like the turbos in the planes I used to fly behind). Once the engine is shut down, no more oil flows to the turbo bearings.
Just my $. 02, Gene

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'96' 3500, 5-speed, 3. 54 LSD, Ext. Cab, 180,000 plus miles, relay controlled back-up alarm and rear facing fog lights, K&N air filter, TST #11 plate . 010" forward of stock, AFC spring kit, lost cat, SPA digital EGT and boost gauge,20 yr. old marine air horns, bed liner, 5" monster exhaust tip, Geno's manual trans. filter.
 
Thanks guys. I guess if I want to have accurate temps in both places I'll have to install two thermocouples.
 
I noticed last summer that with my pyro installed pre turbo and the AC on, it sometimes was impossible to drop below 300*, the SPA indicated a steady 310 -320*. I learned to turn off the AC and then let her cool down.

I ran into the same issue, with my post-turbo mount. Even with AC off, idle times were excessive; often greater than 10 minutes if I stuck to the 300 degree rule. Everyone please forgive me for bringing this up, but this is one of the reasons I decided (for me personally; yes I know Dello is fine, yes I know others have driven 70k "with no problems", yes I know OTR truckers don't do this) to use synthetic oil and sometimes allow myself to shut down at 325 or even 350 (maybe 1 out of 10 shutdowns) if I'm in a big hurry. #ad
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