Shutdown solenoid burned up Again

[MDW]

Whats the deal?
These things are too expensive to be going out every six months.
Does anyone know what burns these things up?
The only thing that is malfunctioning on my truck is the starter doesn't start every time.
Some times I have to hit the key a few times to get the starter to hit.
Was going to rebuild the soleniod soon.
Hope yall have figured this deal out because the first shutdown soleniod cost me $360. 00 from Dodge (and only lasted 6 months), this time I ordered from Cummins at a price of $260. 00, but it has to be shipped down which will take 3 days.
Does this part# sound right #3936026?
Thanks for all your help in advance #ad



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95' 2500 5spd, 2wd reg cab 131,000
TST #4 plate kit, 370 Diamond B injectors, Afc spring kit, Gov. spring kit,TST's fuel pressure adapter and 2 guage pillar mount, SPA EGT/Boost guage. Joe D's Sachs clutch is in.
K&N Re-0880 & Prefilter. Cup Smoothie.
To be installed: MagHytec, 16cm2 Housing from Sportbike(thanks). Royal Purple oil, Finger Touch drain plug.

 

[Jeff Burke]

Your solenoid is tied directly to your starter. If you are having problems with the starter, then you are probably frying your solenoid too. Fix the starter before you put the new solenoid in or you'll be replacing it again fairly soon.

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'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor

 

[danandamy]

Have you replaced the double relay on the firewall yet? I replaced the fuel shutoff sol. on my 2wd '95 and shortly there after the problem started popping up again. Ordered the double relay (available from NAPA) and it fixed it. I tore apart the old one and the points were totally fried in the one that activates the fuel shut off solenoid. I'd bet a dime to a dollar that's where your problem is and not the shut off solenoid.

Daniel

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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54 automatic JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N chunked, AFC adjusted, "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
Just aquired 95 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 automatic, innocent, stock and anxiously awaiting being defiled by bombing... .
"Don't be scared V8's, it's only a 6 cylinder"

 

[MDW]

Ok, I removed the starter and pulled the end cap off the solenoid.
Found the contacts were bad and will be ordering a rebuild kit as soon as figure out where to get it.
What my question is: when I was disconnecting the batteries I found a Blue wire coming from the drivers side battery that was completely burned up.
I wasn't able to trace it because it goes into the wire loom.
Does anybody have a guess as to what it does???

 

[Joe G.]

MDW,

On page 8W-30-45 of my '95 service manual (if you don't have one you should) shows the blue wire going to a splice and then to the Fuel Shut Down Relay as a red wire with a black tracer. On the firewall there are two relays on the engine side and above the master cylinder. These are the relays that are in the way when you change the fuel filter. One of them is the Fuel Heater Relay and the other is the Fuel Shut Down Relay. The latter relay is probably bad. I don't know which one is which so you will need to check the colors going into the connector. I suspect that what is wrong is that the "pull on" contacts are burned so they are made all the time. This would overheat the solenoid and cause the burn up. The "pull on" coil in the solenoid is only supposed to be hot when you start. Then the "hold" coil keeps the solenoid pulled with less current until you turn off the key. The "pull on" circuit is supposed let go as soon as the engine is started and you let the key return to the run position. Of course, you need to check for burned up places that are shorted in the wiring harness involved with this and repair all wiring damage. Make sure you solder all wire joints.

The starter relay is involved since it supplies power to the Fuel Shut Down Relay so it may have caused the problem by burning up this relay. I missed that in my first look at the wireing diagrams. If the starter doesn't "hang" when you let go of the key that relay is probably ok.

I hope this helps.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver


[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 04-14-2001). ]

 

[Missouri Mule]

MDW,
As per Joe G instructions, the larger of the two relays is the fuel shut of solenoid (nearest the fender).
The starter relay wires split( are spiced) after they leave the relay. One wire goes to the fuel shut off relay the other one goes the starter solenoid.
Check the relays/wiring/connectors.
Also see if a near by starter/alternator shop or auto electric shop will sell you the contact points. This will keep you on the road until their re-build kit comes in.
Look in the archives for address of the Diesel electric shop in Arizona.
You should be able to conduct a few easy test on the relays, also you can unplug connector for fuel shot off solenoid valve run a hot wire ot it to test it out.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

[MDW]

Thanks, going to check it out Monday.
Will change the relays that were mentioned and track that blue wire until I find good wire and will solder in a splice.
Found a starter rebuild shop not to far away, so I will be stopping in Monday and talking to them about a complete rebuild.

Where do I get one of those good manuals??
Dodge or Cummins??? If so whats the part #??
All I have is one of those cheap POS ones you get a the parts house #ad


Hope to get this problem solved, would rather be spending my money on BOMBING not repairing "again".

 

['956Wheel]

Theres a "1-800" number in the back of your owners manual, you can order from them. Joe is right get that book... ... you can study it while Mom watches T. V. , ain't nothing worth watching anyway!

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9535hundred

 

[Joe G.]

You should be able to order the manual from the parts department at Dodge. I ordered mine when I ordered the truck. It's getting kind of ragged. In fact the cover came off and I had to glue it back on. There is a number on the back cover that is probably the part number: 81-370-5108.

 

[Missouri Mule]

MDW,
Don't play hit and miss, check the relays make sure they are bad before you replace them. There not that hard to check out.

Also I was having starter problems. Finally gave out. Took it off, removed the solenoid cover found a burnt up contact point(battery terminal). Hunted down auto electric shop the owner did sell me a point for 8 bucks a whole lot better than 400 to 700 Dodge wants.
Starter acts brand new. This shop says he can get new starters for around 300 or was it 200. Sorry memory is going, cheap anyway but what the heck as I recall the starter was made in Japan anyway.

I would check for that wire grounding(shorting out) some where before it gets to the relay.

 

[illflem]

I think if I ever have a problem with my fuel shut down system I'm just going to rig up a choke type cable setup for shut down. Works just fine on a tractor. Anyone see a problem with it?

 

[R.ebel]

If you are in the need of a service manual you can order them here>>> http://www.techauthority. daimlerchrysler.com/

 

[Jeff Burke]

I like illflem's idea, why pay $300 when the problem can be fixed with a $15 part. It would probably make a good anti-theft device too.

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'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor

 

[MDW]

You guys are great #ad

I am thinking of putting a cable pull shutdown, myownself #ad

I ordered a starter rebuild kit from Diesel Electric Service and have a new shutdown solenoid coming from Cummins, but I'm considering putting it aside and rigging up the cable shutdown instead.
Was wondering if it could be hooked to the emergency brake cable, set the brake and kills the engine, release the brake and start the engine #ad
hehehe, the stuff that pops into my head #ad

 

[illflem]

MDW, the e-brake idea is good except that you never know when you might have to kill the engine and coast to the side. I'm remembering the time my frayed throttle cable stuck at WOT when I was going 95 mph, sure didn't want to put on the e-brake that time!!! Another problem is if you stop to let the turbo cool down before shut down, you might have to sit there with your foot on the brake for awhile, same goes for warm-ups.
My idea on the cable was to use a spring to hold the fuel cutoff lever in the on position. A stranded rather than a solid inner cable wire would be the best, they can make turns without binding easier, but will need a spring to pull back. I wouldn't doubt that Cummins may have the cable setup needed, I've seen backhoes with the 5. 9 that have it.