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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Shutdown solenoid or relay??

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JGheen

TDR MEMBER
So after over 160K with the original shutdown solenoid and relay, this morning the solenoid wouldn't pull up. Went ahead and popped the hood and manually pulled it up and engine fired right up but what is the most likely culprit?

The solenoid holds up while driving, so is it likely the relay or solenoid itself? I am going to try relay first, $20 over $180 from Larry B's, but what has everyone else experienced when this happens?



Thanks, Joe
 
solenoid

I just replaced my solenoid last week with 800,000 miles on the truck. the only reason the solenoid went out is that the cotter pin was out of the lever and it put a slight angle on the pull up lever causing wear on the part that snaps in the barrel of the solenoid, other than that it still works fine. I believe that these solenoids last a lot longer than reported and are replaced uncessarily. mine went about 300. 000 miles without a boot. if you want the old one I will give it to you. stormy
 
Well, if your solenoid lasted that long it's kind of telling me it could be a better chance it's the relay since mine only has 160K on it.



Joe
 
It's most likely the relay. If not then look at the blue wire in the positive post of the battery. It's a fusable link. It can corrode or get loose or burn up. You can get a 70 amp automotive relay at an electronics components store for $11 or $12. Except for Radio Shack.
 
ttbird has the right idea. Find out what is wrong before buying any parts. I some times wonder what ever happened to old fashioned trouble shooting. What I keep seeing on these forums is buy the most expensive part. If that doesn't work buy the next most expensive part. And so on.
 
ttbird said:
swap out the relay next to it and see if it works. If it does then the relay is bad. :)

I trashed that one a while back when I removed my fuel heater. :eek:



I think I will be going to the auto electric store. :)



Joe
 
Make sure you check the fusable link and count it out first. I replaced the relay and then the solenoid only to find out after spending the money I could have just replaced the fusable link. Good luck.

Robert
 
Joe G. said:
It's most likely the relay. If not then look at the blue wire in the positive post of the battery. It's a fusable link. It can corrode or get loose or burn up. You can get a 70 amp automotive relay at an electronics components store for $11 or $12. Except for Radio Shack.

I think mine doesn't have the fuseable link being it is a '98. I'll have to look.



Joe
 
Joe check the blue wire on the + battery terminal on the d-side battery. If its not corroded(sp?) and disconnected then move onto the relay. If you want a quick & easy way to check the realy then check my readers rigs. My old GM ASEP teacher taught me how to do that a few years back when I was in college @ Nash. State Tech. Comm. College. It has worked for several members on this site, and if you feel like taking the 20 minutes or so to do it you won't have to spend the $20-30 for a new relay. ;)
 
Before you buy anything take the solenoid out, take it apart, clean the barrel and plunger, reassemble and reinstall. That is all I've ever had to do to mine, but have done it 3 or 4 times. Boot has been gone for over 200k.
 
It's been a few years since I had to mess around with one but if memory serves the relay only activates the hold (or run) side which is working on yours since it holds once you manually lift.

The blue fusable link ,or the contacts in the starter, could be the culprit if it's not the solenoid itself.



dj
 
djbobo said:
the relay only activates the hold (or run) side which is working on yours since it holds once you manually lift.

dj



Wrong! The relay completes the high current connection to the PULL ON coil. The HOLD coil is directly connected to the ignition run circuit. No relay or fuseable link is involved with the hold. The hold coil is low current where the pull on is high current so must have a separate relay and fused circuit.
 
Whenever someone posts on fuel solenoid problems it tends to draw quite a crowd.

I don't have much to add. Most of the possibilities have been covered.

I don't know if the fusible link has ever saved anything from being destroyed but my solenoid certainly saved the link from any serious damage.

Due to the lack of knowlege and finger dexterity, I practically destroyed my relay getting it out of it's case. There was nothing wrong with it though. My starte was shot.

If your problem turns out to be the relay, replace it, check the starter contacts and get a diode in the line to the starter solenoid.
 
And don't forget to check/lube the linkages. I thought mine was bad when it wouldn't start this winter. I opened the hood and pulled it up manually to start a few times. Then it got to the point that it wouldn't shut down either and I realized it just needed some TLC.
 
Howard Durand said:
If your problem turns out to be the relay, replace it, check the starter contacts and get a diode in the line to the starter solenoid.

Got Larry B's starter contacts last year and starter has been working great ever since. :)



Joe
 
bighammer said:
And don't forget to check/lube the linkages. I thought mine was bad when it wouldn't start this winter. I opened the hood and pulled it up manually to start a few times. Then it got to the point that it wouldn't shut down either and I realized it just needed some TLC.

Thats was one thing I did a while back when I replaced the boot. Coated the inside of the solenoid with a bit of WD-40 and put it all back together. Is there some other kind of lasting lube I can use this time around when I get time to pull it apart?



Joe
 
Your right on Joe



Just looked at the diagram. The hold comes staight off the ignition from the fuse panel in the cab.



I love this forum!



dj
 
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