Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Shutdown solenoid or relay??

[Joe G.]

That will work fine. You have to cut the mounting tab off so it will fit in the holder. You should be able to get one at a local electronics components store.

 

[JGheen]

You should be able to get one at a local electronics components store.

That would be easier but I don't know of one anywhere around here.



Joe

 

[Joe G.]

I thought that since you live on the edge of the L A mess all kinds of stores would be handy.

 

[JGheen]

Not too much up here in the Santa Clarita Valley. I hate going down to the San Fernando Valley and they usually have just about everything. It's almost easier and worth it to just order it than dealing with all the complete idiotic drivers out here in So. Cal, even for only a 20-30 minute drive there and back.



Joe

 

[GAmes]

Thats was one thing I did a while back when I replaced the boot. Coated the inside of the solenoid with a bit of WD-40 and put it all back together. Is there some other kind of lasting lube I can use this time around when I get time to pull it apart?



Joe

WD40 is not a lube. I sprayed mine down with silicone lubricant, but I'll bet there is a better lube out there.

 

[Howard Durand]

I think it is best to clean it, replace the boot if it is bad and leave it alone. Any liquid lube will just attract dust. There are dry lubes available but I don't think they are necessary.

 

[JGheen]

Went searching this morning around the driver side battery and the only wires coming off the positive are going to power my winch, connecting the passenger side battery and some wires going to the grid heaters. There is only a fuel heater relay and fuse inside the fuse box, so it definately has to be the relay on the firewall that is probably bad. Gonna be on the local search today for a new one.



Joe

 

[Joe G.]

There has to be a fuse or fusable link for the fuel solenoid somewhere. It's a high current circuit. You need a service manual.

 

[JGheen]

I have a service manual and I believe there is a fuse in the fuse box somewhere but I think it is labeled as a "spare. " Does anyone know how many amps the fuse should be for the solenoid?



Got a relay coming from Larry B's just in case it is not the fuse.



Joe

 

[Joe G.]

The service manual will show where it is and how much it is rated for.

 

[JGheen]

Found it..... it was not the fuse but it is a 50 amp fuse in the jnuction block on the driver side under the hood. Shoot, thought I had it! :-laf



Well, guess I will be waiting till my relay arrives on Friday. Hopefully that will fix it and save me $200 from buying the solenoid.



Joe

 

[Howard Durand]

Joe, if you have an ohm meter you can check the solenoid. Unplug it and check resistance between the Black/Tan wire and each of the other two solenoid wires.

You should have a relatively high reading on the hold up coil (Light Green/Black wire)and a much lower reading on the pull up coil (Red/Violet wire)

The pull up coil is the one you are concerned with. No reading would indicate an open coil. If you get readings on both coils, the solenoid is most likely OK.

 

[JGheen]

Thanks Howard, yeah, don't own a multi-meter but I got a relay comin' tomorrow, so one way or another I'll get this figured out. Gettin' tired of poppin' the hood before starting the engine. :-laf



Joe

 

[JGheen]

Relay not the problem?

Well shoot, I got my relay today, replaced it and still the same symptoms! :{ I turn the key and try to start it and the solenoid still doesn't pull up on the lever when I crank the starter over, so I am still poppin' the hood to lift it up manually to start it. So what now?

All my fuses are good..... I got a brand new relay on there... . is it really the solenoid that is bad? It holds up fine while driving after I manually pull it up and it shuts down just fine when I turn the key off, how could it be bad if the only thing it does not do is pull up and all the other electronics are fine??

I think I am gonna pull it off, inspect it, take it apart, clean it and see what happens but any other thoughts on what the issue is? I am just out of ideas on what it could be and I really don't think it could be the solenoid since it holds in the up position and shuts down fine. Any other thoughts you guys have, fill me in and I will see what happens when I get it off tomorrow and clean it up..... maybe that will fix it.....



Joe

 

[Joe G.]

You can test it on the truck. Disconnect the three wire connector. Use jumper wires to test it. If it does not pull up take it off and test it on your work bench. If it works on the bench and not on the truck look for a bind in the lever it pulls. If it pulls up on the truck then look for an electrical problem like a bad connection. You can also test to see if the relay connects when the key is turned to start by getting a 12 volt LED from Radio Shack. Use it to jumper the connection pins in the connector you disconnected from the fuel solenoid. If the LED lights (make sure the black lead of the LED goes to ground) when it is on the white wire and the key is turned to start then take a close look at the solenoid. If the LED does not light then you have an electrical problem.

 

[JGheen]

Guess I need a new solenoid

Well, this must have happened in the last couple of days cuz I didn't see this until now. Top of the friggin' solenoid is broke open and oozing out some stuff like it melted down and got overloaded somehow.

Has anyone ever seen this or had this happen before? If I get a new one, will it get overloaded and meltdown again? Wondering if there is a bigger problem with my electrical system. I am just stumped on how this happened. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you guys think... . guess I will be getting a new solenoid sent down from Larry B's first thing Monday. :-laf



Joe

 

[Joe G.]

My first reaction from seeing that is to ask is your starter sticking? Did it stick? Have you looked at the starter contacts? A stuck starter will cause what you are looking at. It may not be sticking all the time, but once could do it.

 

[JGheen]

Read some other threads on starter contacts and solenoids. The one most interesting was that long thread on "crap, that starter contact thing doesn't give you any warning. "

Anyway, how can you tell if your starter sticks? I would think you could hear it and am wondering if mine stuck or sticks when I drive it. I installed those Larry B's super contacts a while ago, but could it still stick even with the new contacts and plunger installed??

Wondering if a new starter along with the solenoid is a good investment as well. Definately going to have Larry B send me that solenoid saver diode to prevent the new solenoid from buring up ever again in the even of another possible starter stick.

So now, I guess I shouldn't drive the truck until all the new parts are installed cuz I am sure I could either burn up the starter ir cause a fire with my already toasted solenoid. Any agreed thought on that?



Man, this sucks, when these trucks get old they really start to throw parts left and right. First it was my headgasket, then my power steering gearbox housing cracked, now the solenoid is toast and probably the starter too, what the heck is going to go next! :{ #@$%!



Joe

 

[Joe G.]

Mine is a '95 with over 240K on it. So far no real problems except with the trans about 130K miles ago. Of course, I'm kind of a nut about how I do maintenance. The fuel solenoid, lift pump, starter, front end stuff are all original parts except for one axle U-joint. The brake pads have been replaced a couple of times but the rotors are still the originals.

 

[ttbird]

when you order your solenoid from larry b get his diode to prevent this from occurring again, even if you have to get a new starter. Alot cheaper than starters or solenoids. I also have a 95 and only starter contacts and diode as a precaution so far.