Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) shutdown solenoid

[jlapeyrouse]

shutdown solenoin

Truck would not start, found that the solenoid would not pull in, but would stay in the "run" position after pushing it up by hand.



After further investigation, found that I am not getting any voltage to the "PULL" wire on the solenoid.



It has 3 wires labeled as follows " comm - hold - pull "



Any suggestions as to where this wire gets its signal.



Am at a loss.





Thanks in advance for any help.



John Lapeyrouse

 

[illflem]

I'm moving this to 12 valve where you'll get more response.

Jump 12 volts to the com(-) and pull(+) to rule out a solenoid problem. Don't leave it connected for more than a second, it will burn up your jumpers or solenoid. If the problem isn't the solenoid it is likely a poor wiring connection, relay or starter contacts.

 

[Joe G.]

John,



If Bill's test works, it's probably the solenoid relay. The pull coil draws too much current to go directly from the ignition switch like the hold coil does. There are two relays on the engine side of the master cylinder on the firewall. It's the big one I think. This is supper cheap to check and/or fix. Go to Radio Shack and pick up their 30 amp 12 volt relay. They only have one so you can't get the wrong one. It's about $6. Remove the solenoid relay on the firewall and stick the one from RS in it's place. See if it works. The RS relay is kind of funny looking, but if you want you can use it. I have a bunch of them for various things on my truck. None have failed yet.

 

[bmoeller]

I'm having the same problem with my truck. The solenoid is O. K. My problem is I have 12v to the pull-in coil (connector disconnected from solenoid) if I ground to the battery. When the 12v is supplied and have the meter connected to the ground wire that goes the solenoid, it drops the ground. Is it supposed to ground thru the mounting bracket or the connector?

 

[Joe G.]

It grounds thru the connector. If you don't have a gound on the connector and apply 12 volts to the pull on, then you will be seeing some voltage at the ground connector.

 

[bmoeller]

Thanks Joe G. , I'll check it with the connector plugged in this time and see what I come up with.

 

[jlapeyrouse]

Shutdown solenoid resolved

First let me thank all of you for the suggestions and comments.



As it turned out, it was the oldest gremlin in the book. Corrosion at the drivers side positive battery terminal.



The red/black wire that supplies +12v to the solenoid is connected directly to the pos. side of the battery terminal.

It runs through the wire loom and comes out just below the battery shelf. It is factory spliced to a orange wire that continues up to the battery post.



The ring terminal had completly corroded off. I could get a voltage reading at the solinoid connection, but no amperage.



After replacing the ring terminal and cleaning the battery connections, she started the first try.



I hope this is some help to anyone else with the electrical ghost.



Thanks again,



John

 

[Dan_69GTX]

John - This is similar to what happened with my truck, but most of the wire had corrosion in it too.



If you replace the wire, be sure to use the correct gauge of fusable link wire.



I know CarQuest sells all different gauges.



Dan