Simple Do-It-Yourself Instructions For Changing an ISB 6.7 Fuel Filter

[HBarlow]

It is not necessary to remove the left front tire or even the left front fender inner lining.



From below the truck reach up and disconnect the water in fuel sensor wiring plug from the base of the fuel filter cannister.



Place a catch pan under the filter to catch fuel. Using a 1/2" ratchet and a 1/2" extension long enough to reach the bottom of the cannister, insert the 1/2" drive tip of the extension in the slot in the bottom center of the filter and back it out one turn. Remove the drain valve on the bottom of the cannister by twisting the 2" plastic "star wheel" counterclockwise and allow the cannister to drain. When cannister is drained remove the cannister.



The replacement cannister contains a new filter element and the water in fuel sensor. Simply apply the supplied replacement O ring to the male end of the cannister and screw it in by hand. Hand tighten it. Reconnect the water in fuel sensor plug.



Cycle the key twice just enough to bump the starter but do not turn the engine over. This will cycle the fuel transfer pump in the fuel tank to refill the cannister.



Start the engine and test for leaks.



Record the date and mileage in your truck maintenance record book.



If your truck runs and doesn't leak fuel you did good!

 

[Austin Diesel]

I read somewhere on this site that there is a supplemental OEM fuel filter kit that was or is released for Bio Fuel usage for 6. 7 engines does any one have the link or part number,TSB for that kit ? so i can contact my parts dept to get it ordered ?

 

[TDRadmin]

The kit has yet to be released.



Great tip from Harvey Barlow. You'll want to follow the Fron Page News for the announcement of a new contest based on that common-senseical tip



Regards Robert Patton

 

[Cattletrkr]

This looks like a good thread for the FAQ section. Easy to find that way.

 

[gsbrockman]

The replacement cannister contains a new filter element and the water in fuel sensor. Simply apply the supplied replacement O ring to the male end of the cannister and screw it in by hand. Hand tighten it. Reconnect the water in fuel sensor plug.

The only thing I might add is to coat the new o-ring with some diesel fuel and make sure you have the new filter threaded in properly; with the fuel filter being made of plastic, the chance of cross-threading is very easy..... especially with the fine threads.



Great write up, HBarlow !



Greg

 

[Jim W]

I would recommend that you follow the directions that come with the filter from Cummins/Mopar that state to cover the O-ring with engine oil. Please do not use diesel fuel I do not think that the O-ring material is compatible with diesel fuel. You would need to see the material spec chart to see if the O-ring is compatible or not. Some O-ring material will not tolerate the additives in the diesel fuel.

 

[gsbrockman]

Please do not use diesel fuel I do not think that the O-ring material is compatible with diesel fuel.

So... ... ... ... ..... what exact fluid is the fuel filter o-ring designed to prevent leakage of ?

 

[Austin Diesel]

#ad




Racor 500 FG /12 volt Diesel fuel heater and water separator SVO/ WVO/E-Bay



looking for BIO Fuel filter info Setup and a possible mounting point for my 08 2500 that will retain warranty status



I have been looking at this unit as it has a preheater for winter use and some of the other Racor units have fuel sensing bypass valves that pushes the fuel back to the tank for recirculation seems to be some great technology as it works for big rigs (Volvo) in the winter cold climate operations

This unit might be a better choice that the proposed oem bio Filter set up



I would like a pic of the proposed Dodge OEM 6. 7 Bio Filter set up or more info maybe it will coming out on the 09 models ?

 

[Jim W]

If you look where the O-Ring is placed I believe that the purpose of the O-Ring is to prevent air from entering thru the threads. Therefor if the O-Ring material is not compatible with diesel fuel then using diesel fuel to lube the seal this may cause it to fail. Just my $0. 02

 

[TDRadmin]

Yeah Harvey!

Check it out:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/



Robin

TDR Admin

 

[HBarlow]

Check it out:

Turbo Diesel Register

Robin
TDR Admin

Wow, what a deal! A check in the mail and it's not even Christmas yet.

Thank you Robin and Robert. I think creating a reward for helpful tips that can help all of us members is a great idea. There are a lot more handy tips floating around in the heads of all the TDR membership. I read a similar tip for engine oil changes in the TDR back in 2001 shortly after I bought my first Dodge and joined TDR.

Harvey

 

[Austin Diesel]

I had to do the first service to the 08/ 6. 7 fuel filter and could not turn it without fear of breaking or twisting something in half laying on my back looking up into the engine compartment. called the dealer he said the mechanics cuss the first time filter removal (overtightened from cummins). Pulled inner fender couldnt really get a good bite on it from a strap wrench without pulling the wheel and loosing the skin on the top of my hand if it let go. got a rigid strap wrench from home depot pulled like heck and it finally started to loosen, dealer said to pre prime just to play it safe , hand tighened it all worked well and no leaks .

 

[GPangrle]

once I got diesel on an o ring for a fuel filter for my 97 and the ring expanded and I could not get it to seat properly

 

[archer2500]

o-ring and diesel fuel

If you look where the O-Ring is placed I believe that the purpose of the O-Ring is to prevent air from entering thru the threads. Therefor if the O-Ring material is not compatible with diesel fuel then using diesel fuel to lube the seal this may cause it to fail. Just my $0. 02

Jim, Im a helicopter mechanic in the Marines and when we install a new fuel component we coat the packing (O-ring) with the mil-spec equivalent of vaseline. Someone else below mentioned that they experienced an o-ring swelling up when exposed to diesel and that has always been my experience. The fuel breaks down the o-ring, makes it softer, it tends to expand and swell. All of these cause the o-ring to loose its ability to properly seal the component. And yes, it is my understanding that the purpose of the o-ring is to keep would-be contaminants OUT of the fuel system more than keeping the fuel in.



I have fulled fuel cells out of aircraft that have been in service for 20-30 years and the o-rings are still good as new, good enough to be re-used even. But if a fuel cell is leaking and the o-ring has been exposed to fuel, you can tell immediately because you constantly find contamination in the fuel (sand, water etc) and when you remove the o-ring it is elongated, and weak.



so, imho I offer my $. 02 as well.

 

[Jumbo Jet]

Are the instructions for a 2WD? What a PITA on a 4WD. Easier to remove the left wheel.

How does the wire disconnect? I am still tryinf to figure that out. You can't see how it connects very easily.

 

[HBarlow]

The instructions are for both. My truck is a 2wd but it's a cab and chassis which uses a complete 4wd front end except for the differential assembly and front axle shafts.

 

[Jumbo Jet]

Here is what I did on my 3500 4x4:

Tools used - Flex handle filter wrench and a small pick

#ad



1. Removed left front wheel (in hindsight, I would not do that next time. I needed to SEE the filter better).

Picture of filter from wheel well
#ad



2. The Mopar filter wire latch was on the back side where I could not see it. (Reason I took the wheel off to begin with) I used the pick to release the wire.

3. Loosen the drain valve to drain fuel in canister. My shop floor needed a good cleaning and the fuel ran down the front differential and other axle components. Some made it into the drain pan placed on the floor.

4. Use the flex handle filter wrench to loosen the filter. I was then able to remove by hand. I tried the 1/2" ratchet (took about 15 seconds to realize something else would work). Too many cables, wires, parts in the way for a fat hand like mine. The flex handle on my filter wrench was easy to manipulate around all the obstacles.

5. Remove the filter through the inner fender opening - I was able to remove and replace by flexing the lower portion plastic inner fender at the bottom of the opening. Make sure the donut rubber gasket was removed with the filter.

6. Check the new filter for the donut rubber gasket. Put a little motor oil on the o-ring and install on the filter canister

7. Install by screwing the filter canister by hand and then snug (instructions that came with filter canister say 1/2" after contact is made with the lip just below the o-ring and the filter mount.

8. Cycle key (bump start, but DO NOT start engine) two times (I did three for good measure), then crank engine to check for leaks.

The "user friendly" Fleetguard fuel filter (from Geno's Garage 4/2 filter kit Item Number : MK2007DG !!!) has the wire latch visible and will be much easier to remove next time!

#ad

 

[Austin Diesel]

First find a nice brite halogen work light to shine in there to see everything 2 wd was still a pain on the intitial filter change.



just pull the elect. tang back a little and it should slide out i used a small snap on pick between the tang, and push down a little ,spray with a little silicone lube upon reassemble into the socket, the 2 wheel drive filter acess was still a pain, but standing on a crate leaning into the compartment looking into the shadows makes it more difficult



find a good light and shine it up into the fuel filter area and see if it will turn without rounding the 1/2 square drive from the bottom of the filter can maybe 30" of 1/2" extensions to reach up in their and push up on the can so it wont walk out of square socket remember it doesnt have to be that tight upon reassambly just so it doesnt leak.

the viton seal is fuel resistant is the green color coded just like ac o rings

 

[Lil' Dog]

For whatever reason, the engine mount was in the way for the 1/2 drive from the bottom and I had to wrestle with it from the fender well. Also being the OEM filter on there, it was a bear to get loose, must have been assembled dry on the stand.

 

[BobTaylor]

Me too on the "hell to get off. " Great instructions Harvey, too bad I couldn't get them to work. I think that the filter was just on too tight to loosen with the extension. Being a little guy, my arms are barely long enough to reach up to the filter to begin with. I had to take the tire off and use a filter wrench, but the hardest part was getting the darn thing out of the cavity. There is NO place to get it out through. Finally, dumping diesel fuel all over myself, I got it out and back in from underneath, but only by brute force. I thought my '97 was the worst possible design, but I think that they have reached new heights in "difficult to change. " Dammit, why can't they design the frequently changed items to be semi-convenient?