2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Skyjacker 2.5" leveling springs installed!

[Gizmo 007]

I installed a set of Skyjacker springs on my truck saturday night. The springs work GREAT! Truck sits nice and level, and ride is improved slightly.



Now for the question. How do I straighten the steering wheel back to center? It's now at about a 45* angle with the wheels straight. Do I just adjust the steering link between the axle and steering box, or what?



Thanks

 

[Got Smoke?]

Gizmo did you just install springs and nothing else? Or did you have to replace anything else? How much did the springs cost?

 

[CJ Lagos]

You need to lengthen your draglink, which is the bar in the steering that attaches to the pitman arm on the steering box.

 

[Kalaehina]

I wonder what caused the steering wheel to go crooked, I just installed the same springs on my 96 about a month ago and my wheel stayed straight?? Got smoke I paid about $140. 00 from Summit racing for the springs only, I also got Rancho 5000 in front for 2 inch lifts and Pro Comps in the rear from the local 4 Wheel Parts store, ride is alot softer. I did find out that almost every bushing under there was worn so I'm going to Lukes Link it soon, got all the parts just gotta make the time .

 

[Gizmo 007]

I installed springs only. But I'll be replacing all the shocks before long. One didn't work quite like it should have when I had them out.



I bought the springs from an individual who tried them, but didn't like them, and I paid $100 for them.



The steering wheel is crooked because the steering linkage is now at a different angle because the axle is now 2. 5" farther away from the body, which moves the axle toward the driver side about an inch. I'm going to have the front end re-aligned this week, so I'll get them to center the steering wheel then.



Thanks again.

 

[Red360]

Gizmo 007,

Did you change out your upper and lower control arms? If not, you do not need a front end alignment, as you did not change the geometry of the front end. By raising it 2 1/2 inches, you moved the axle 1 inch toward the drivers side. To re center the steering wheel is very easy. First, locate the drag link. This is the rod/arm which goes between the steering box and the passenger side side steering knuckle. Loosen the two 15mm bolts and either lengthen or shorten the bar by turning the collar After getting it close in the driveway, tighten the bolts and take it for a test drive. Keep making the adjustments until centered. If you changed the upper/lower control arms, you should get an alignment, as the lower control arm affects the caster adjustment. I have this same setup on my truck. I do recommend that you get a new track bar, DT is what I'm running, so you can re-center your axle in relationship to the centerline of the truck. Also, you should also get a dropped steering arm. All this does is relocates the drag link balljoint on the bottom of the steering arm vice the top as stock. This relaxes the angle on the drag link. Good Luck!!

 

[Gizmo 007]

Finally got some time today, so decided to recenter the steering wheel. I crawled under the truck and adjusted the steering link. 1. 5 rounds on the adjustment and wheel is now straight.



Just for the fun of it, I checked the toe-in which is about 3/32". Is that pretty close to what it needs to be? I haven't adjusted anything other than the steering arm.



Thanks for the help guys. The truck drives a lot better now that the steering wheel is where is should be.

 

[MJawsman]

Spec for toe is 1/16" + or - 1/16". Hope it helps!

 

[Clinton]

jacking and drooping

Hey Gizmo007,

I've got mine prepped and ready to swap the springs (DT trac bar bracket on and ready to go). I'd like to know a couple of things:

1. Where on the truck did you jack from?

2. Where did you put the jack stands?

3. When you drooped the axle, how did the spings respond? Nice and easy or violently?

4. Did your axle seem to rotate much while drooped?

5. Did you disconnect the drive shaft? I've heard of some doing it and others not.

Thanks, I hope to finish mine early next week.

 

[KatDiesel]

Anyone buy these from anywhere other then Summit?

They are backordered until 9/20 "estimated".



The two "Truck shops" here are clueless... . one shop said he could get them for about $225. The other shop said I gotta buy the whole kit and then tried to sell me some spacers, when I clearly stated I didn't want spacers.



I have a feeling I will "need" them to run my Nitto 295/75/16 with my airdam.

 

[Clinton]

I got mine from Jack-It. Best price and good service. Don't have the contact here, just search and they'll come up.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Clinton

I got mine from Jack-It. Best price and good service. Don't have the contact here, just search and they'll come up.

Thanks I'll email them.

 

[KatDiesel]

They quoted me $132. 99 plus shipping @ Jack It. Thats cheaper then Summit lists.

 

[Gizmo 007]

Clinton,



1. There is a cross member under the radiator that I jacked the truck from. It worked really well, but you will need a jack with a fairly long stroke. I jacked the truck until the tires were about 3" off the ground. I then jacked up the fron axle and removed the top control arm bolts. This allows the axle to roll forward and out of th way.

2. I put the jackstands along the frame rails, to keep it nice and steady.

3. Axle droop was fairly smooth. The springs won't just fly out. Mine were imbedded into the top mount.

4. I took the drag links loose, so the axle did rotate.

5. Nope, I left the driveline attached. It never even came close to binding.



Hope this helps. Good luck with the install!

 

[Clinton]

Thanks Gizmo

Yes, it will help. I've been searching on this subject for a couple of days and it seems, from what I can tell, that there's a couple of acceptable ways of going about the task. I won't be able to get back to mine until next week (econo car to the rescue) but I'm better prepared now. Thanks again.