Slid the stock plate. WOW!! transmission slipping now...

[Jim Guidry]

Well, I finally did it! Slid that pup all the way forward. I wanted to see what it felt like before I dropped the bucks on a TST plate. Gobs of power and smoke! But, when I stomp it at 70, the clutch starts slipping. So, I'm not getting much benefit from the power increase. Bummer!

I don't have the bucks for the full transmission re-do right now. Is there anything I can do to cut down the slipping? I'm considering just putting the plate back where it was.

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'96 Regular Cab, 116. 5K, SLT 2WD auto 3. 54, Vista topper, Pillar-mounted Autometer Boost/Pyro, transmission temp and oil pressure guages under dash, starwheel spun

 

[Forrest]

Jim,

Glad to hear you discovered free torque. There are some fixes for the slipping out there with Bill K & BD up in Canada & others, but consider sliding the plate just a little back twords center. No reason to ruin all the fun. #ad
Just measure or eyeball the distance & only drop it back 1/4 of the way back to center & try it out. 1/32 makes a lot of difference. #ad


Of course, there are those businesses out there that don't like plate sliding. After all, it's free torque & if everyone did it, not as many of the 1st level plates would get sold. #ad
Also, you may want to leave that pesky knock off screw out if it's a pain, until you get done messing around.

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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, HX40-16, TST #11/280 slid 3/4 way, 300 HP Injectors, Scourge BD 4200rpm Governor kit, McLeod, 4", CATless, straight out back, chrome turn down, ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, Michelin 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One.
#11 plate days are numbered, custom grind in hand.
Dutchmen 27' 5th Wheel.
GoldWing.

 

[Koa Man]

You could also consider doing just a valve body for now. A friend of mine did a a v-b on is Y2K with 275s, VA, and BB set at 15% and he said it stopped the slipping. It will still slip if the BB is set any higher.
A v-b shouldn't run more than couple hundred if you do the labor yourself. A TFOD is much cheaper but the install is pretty difficult if you are not a trans guy.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psychotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, Walker 21471, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn, PowerVision mirrors.

 

[Jim Guidry]

#ad
Thanks guys! I'm going to leave it all the way forward for now, and just "soft pedal" it. It does feel SO much better!

A while back, there was a post by Bill K. , complete with pix, about turning up line pressures. Would this help?

 

[WHOLEHOG]

Jim,
Do you have a brother Rodney?
Jeff

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Jeff Swiney
98 SLT QC 4X4 Auto LWB Rhino Liner
Just Fixin To Be Bombed

 

[Jim Guidry]

Jeff, no brothers. But Rodney and I are most likely related. You know us Cajuns... .

 

[HerbW]

I have a '96 DC also and would like a little more power than the stock 180 HP. I have the 7100 pump on the 12v engine. Is there any pictures and discription on the plate movement on the website? I would consider moving the plate if I knew how. It would be my first BOMB attempt! Thanks for any help. Herb

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'96 4x4 Dodge Cummins Truck,Smitty built running boards,AT,CD plr,Gemtop steel canopy basically stock and Polar white in color. Only 50 k miles and I'm spaying my cat soon and adding gauges, plates and other money grabbers!!

 

[cumminsturbo95]

JIM hear the post you were lookin for https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum3/HTML/002412.html HERBW hear a link with a pic. of the pump + the plate ..... http://www.dynosources.com/install_dodge_59.htm HOPE THIS HELP'S.

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95 CUMMINS W/AMSOIL 5W-30 CC 2WD AUTO W/AMSOIL ATF+4 +GENO'S COMBO GAUGE + SONY 10 disc + 1 CHAMBER FLOWMASTER +LOST cat + silencer ring + slid stock plate & k&N so far... ! member of the SETDR

 

[WHOLEHOG]

I just did it myself and its easier than you can imagine and it really works. All I did was go to the instructions on plate kit installs on the TST page and used it to get to the plate. It has good illustrations to follow along with. It also shows you how to turn the wheel. I pushed the plate all the way forward and clicked the wheel 75 clicks towards the engine. YEEEHAAA!!!! What a Rodeo! All the stuff these guys have been writing about it is true. Low end is greatly improved and it seems to wind up twice as fast. I was a little apprehensive about messing with this sort of thing at first but after reading so many other positive posts about the ease of operation and the gains to be had, I decided to give it a try. Thanks to everybody who wrote about the fun First Step with my new toy. Now I'm just like everybody else here, waiting on parts for the next upgrade.

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Jeff Swiney
98 SLT QC 4X4 Auto LWB Rhino Liner
Just Fixin To Be Bombed

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

#ad
bout time you guys started listening #ad

 

[Jim Guidry]

My6: I'm a slow learner! #ad


WHOLEHOG: Are you slipping at all? If I step into it at 1700-1800 rpms, my lock-up clutch slips pretty bad. But, HOOBOY! If I can keep it locked, it REALLY scoots!

 

[JConley]

After reading this, why do I have the feeling that my extended warranty is going to bite the dust #ad


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98 QC 2500 2WD 12 Valve Automatic, 3. 54 Mag-Hytec transmission pan. No silencer ring. Wrap around black Grill Guard (BIG solid steel one. AFC controller adjusted, Mopar mud flaps, Camper package, 2001 Tow mirrors, Cat ran away, No Muff
My Mustang
My Ram
Go Aggies!!!

 

[WHOLEHOG]

Jim,So far so good for me no slipping that I can tell. If I can just hold out till the 17th I have new transmission parts coming from DTT.

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Jeff Swiney
98 SLT QC 4X4 Auto LWB Rhino Liner
Just Fixin To Be Bombed

 

[R.ebel]

I hope you guys that are sliding the stock fuel plate have a egt gauge installed. The reason being is that on my stock 97 5spd with the cat MIA I could pull 1150*F while towing and pulling grades in 4th and 5th gear. With the plate slid forward you are likley exceeding 1300*F, better safe than sorry. IMHO

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1997 2500 Ext Cab 4X4,5 spd,3. 54's,Pac brake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce clutch,K&N airfilter, Isspro gauges,TST #11 plate (280hp/680tq),AFC medium spring, Jardine 4" exhaust, 370 Diamond B marine injectors and 16cm turbine housing.

 

[Jim Guidry]

After sliding my plate and housing, I've never seen over 1000 degrees. Boost is at 20-22 lbs. But, in all fairness, I can't really "stand on it" because of my slipping transmission.

 

[The patriot]

My boost stock is as much as 24 psi. Never saw the pyro over 900, even with a winter front on.
Question is, do I need to "adjust" anything else to gain more boost if I slide my stock plate forward?
Just seems like I HAVE TO add boost if I ad fuel? Right? #ad

TIA Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 275 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

when i do this for people i always eith wire the wastegate shut or block the actuator hose/tube. I would expect at least 27 to 36 from these mods.
I also slide the plate all the way forward to within 1/16"(the farthest the afc housing will fit) by cutting the adjustments off the back, turn the hi idle screw all the way in, flatten the washer behind the afc diaphram(worth 20hp), take the afc spring out, and slide the afc housing all the way forward, and turn the star wheel all the way forward. These are always worth 80 to 120 rwhp. Smoke control is with your foot as it should be and egts need to be watched.