slide in camper tie down question

[TowPro]

Somewhere I read where one of you guys was using the factory tie down's, inside the bed, on the rear of your camper. Now I can't find it.



My camper sits about 4" higher then the bed because of my 5th wheel hitch rails, and I can access both the front and rear factory tie down locations.



I remember that comercial where they picked up the ram using those same tie down's, so I would guess it would hold up to a camper (1800 lbs, 9. 5' alunimum over wood construction)



I will have to move the camper mount "eye bolts" but I will call the camper manafacture first to see what they have to say.



I have read every thread about the "happy jacks, and torque lifts" but they would cost more then I paid for the camper.



Right now I have a front bed ear system I build myself, and the rear bumper mount in the rear (the camper came with the good turnbuckles).



I took it out about 20 miles of twisty roads last night and it worked well, nothing moved, but the factory tie down holes in the bed are a lot stronger. If I can move the camper eye bolts, I want to use them.



This is a 2wd truck and I will not be going "off road" except some stone roads to get to the campgrounds.



What do you guys think? Maybe add more eye bolt and use the factory tie downs plus the ones I already installed?



I read the rear should be kept kind of loose anyway, so use the bumper mounts in the rear, and both factory and ear mounts in the front?

 

[dewdo]

I used the stake pocket tie down once on an old 72 Ford. (it wasn't too old when I did) and it worked out fine. Of course they put metal in the body of trucks then. I gave it tow my daughter and it still has the stake pocket tie downs, but I noticed one was bent.



I bought a 2000 11. 5 Arctic Fox a couple of years ago and the dealer insisted the "Happijacs" were the best. I drove it about 300 miles and was ready to turn around and go home. The camper was rocking and rolling something terrible. I was having to crawl around curves.



I stopped and called Tork Lift and found a dealer with the frame mount tie downs in stock and had them put on. Now I take the curves at the posted safe limit or slightly above. They are a bit pricey, but worth it for safety and comfort.



Dewdo in the other Washington

 

[TowPro]

I called the manafacture early this morning and talked to the owner!, he was very helpfull, he also drives a Dodge.



He explained how the eye bolts are installed and was very helpfull, as well as wanted to here what I was thinking.



I think I may pull the inside panaling off the front wall and install 2 additional eye bolts that line up with the factory bed tiedowns, and use them as well as the ACAR front mounting system (ears that mount onto the front of bed from camping world), then leave the back tie downs attached to the rear bumper (also comes in the kit from campingworld), and keep them sort of loose as there only to stop the camper from jumping (as others have pointed out)



Keep in mind I only have $500. 00 into the camper, and can't afford to buy the torque lifts.

 

[dresslered]

TowPro-

I can't comment on your planned mounting methods, but I do believe that you have it backwards on which end should be firmly seated. The back of the camper should be fairly rigid with the end of the bed (this is why the rigid turnbuckles are used back there). It should almost act like a hinge in the back while still allowing the front some movement. It is the front that should be allowed to move around (thus sprung turnbuckles are used here)which allows for frame flex and the camper hopping.

 

[BV]

Rear Bumper Mount

I have seen many bent bumpers from mounting the buttons on the ends. It would be better to find a different mounting point for the back end.

If you have the factory hitch then you can make (or have made for you) a couple of mounts like the Tork Lift for around $50.

Email or PM me if you want more details.



EDIT: I found the old . bmp drawing that I threw together for someone else if anyone want's to get a visual. It's very easy and cost is minimal - $40 for 2" tubing and a six pack to the neighbor for welding. Other tools needed are a drill, 1/4" bit, electric grinder, hacksaw (or cutoff saw), couple of 1/4" bolts/nuts and some time.

 

[dresslered]

I definitely agree with BV on this one. Even if your camper was cheap, mount it properly or you'll damage the truck or more.

 

[Cobra]

may need help

Hey guys,

I bought a 2000 Coachman Ranger from a dealer that I believe is the worst camper dealer in the U. S. Anyway, I have a box beam that is mounted to the frame for my front tie down and the rear attaches to the bumper. I have been reading on the forum about different makes of tie downs but I have no idea what make I have. I really thing it was just made by the dealer, and has no name. I bought it in Delmont Pa. and I would never recommend any body to go there.



I'm going to Muncie this weekend. Staying at Big Oak Campground. If any of you guys are going I'll see you there and maybe you can look my rig over for me.

 

[dresslered]

Cobra-

I can't say for sure without seeing your system, but I have seen other front box beams that looked very nice. The important thing is that you are mounted on the frame. You might want to investigate making the change to the rear as BV suggests because these dodge bumpers are really only a step above tin foil.



What kind of springs are you using? Maybe the Happi-Jak spring loaded turnbuckles would be a good solution.

 

[rrl989]

TowPro,



The Happi-Jac system works fine on Dodges. Been using it for years without a problem with one of the heaviest Lance slide-ons. I have the older bed mount tabs with a stabilizer bar. The sytem was not expensive. They have a newer system out now that ties to the frame. Check out thier website for more info if interested.



Ron

 

[Cobra]

Dresslered,

When you ask what kind of springs I am using, you lost me. I don't think you mean the springs on the truck. I don't have any other springs. My turnbuckles are just solid and tied up to chains.



BTW, coming back from Thunder in Muncie on I-70 I saw a Big Foot on a Dodge. I sure liked that slide in. Before I spend much money on my set up I am going looking at new campers. The Big foot is one I would like to see. I guess I will have to go to the Northwest to find a dealer though. Artic Fox and S & S are others. I never heard of them before I bought my Coachmen.



I'm Willing to go up there if I have to. Even to Canada.

 

[dresslered]

Cobra-

Regardless of the type of tie-downs that you are using, you are going to want a certain amount of flex so that the camper and/bed don't get damaged. A very popular system is happijac's spring loaded turnbuckles. These look like little shock absorbers that mount between the chain and the camper tie point. The fronts have actual springs in them whereas the rears (I believe) just have a type of Polyurathane bushing. These turnbuckles maintain a substantial downward force while also allowing the chain to "stretch" about 1 half-inch.



I have the "rigid" Tork-lifts so I am using the happijac spring-loaded turnbuckles. An alternate method is using the "spring loaded" Tork-lifts, which then should be used with the "rigid" turnbuckles as you describe. Definitely rectify this problem if you don't have some kind of energy absorbtion.



I do love the Bigfoot but it is extremely heavy. It has double pane glass and is rated to -40 degrees. There are dealers in the States, and I do believe that it is also made under the name of "Oakland". Good luck,



David

 

[Cobra]

Dresslered,

Thank you very much for the info. I will research and find something that works with regard to your recommandation. I felt all along that it wasn't a good idea to tie that camper tight, and I mentioned it to the dealer when I bought it. He said yeah just leave your turn buckles loose and it will be fine. This guy is a big dealer and I was hoping he knew what he was talking about.



Thanks again

Bill

 

[WyoJim]

I spent a good many years logging in PA. We never bound a load of logs with a spring loaded anything. I don't think a load of logs would travel safe tied to the truck with springs.

I began hauling truck campers in 1969, fastened with ridgid turnbuckles to the truck bed. Never had a problem untill I moved to the Rocky Mountains. Then I started running in wind and began worrying about the camper blowing off, bed and all.

So I installed frame mounts with solid buckles. I don't want the wind getting even a 1/2 inch start at blowing me over.

Put your shoulder against a locked door and it won't move. Back up a little and hit it, it will break open. Same deal as a spring loaded turnbuckle.



I ran into a problem going back east with my torque Lifts. They wouldn't hold the camper from sliding around. It would slide back 6 inches and all I had to do to get it back was stop quick, but it would slide right back. Never had that problem in 34 years of Happy Jack type hold downs. I bought a rubber horse trailer mat in Mitchell SD and installed it at a rest stop. Problem solved.



Would I install frame mounted hold downs again, you bet. All I had to see was a few tractor trailers blowed over and I knew I needed all the help I could get.

 

[dresslered]

WyoJim-

First, you definitely need a frictional surface between the bed and the camper or no tie-down will hold it in place. A tie-down merely keeps it from bouncing or blowing out. A tie-down is only suppose to offer 200-300 lbs of force. It is the camper's center of gravity and the frictional surface that really keeps it in the bed.



Secondly, a logging truck with a load of logs is a little different than a camper in a light-duty pickup truck.



Third, it is the Happijak turnbuckles that I am recommending?



I would imagine that you are using wood-framed campers as well as aluminum siding. They flex quite a bit and are a little more forgiving than the aluminum framed/rigid siding. However, I would rather use proper tie-down techniques regardless.

 

[WyoJim]

dresslered... . You are full of *****. I hauled 11 ft. cab over campers around for 33 years without frictional material in the bed of the truck. I always used Happy Jack type hold downs and never had the camper slide around untill I put on the frame mounted hold downs.

Several years of this hauling was with a Holiday Rambler which I think was an aluminum frame. Same deal. The Happy Jacks held it.

I am not recommending any hold downs, I am only stating 33 years of facts.

The reason I switched to frame mounts is because of the wind. I got hit with a cross wind one time that the people behind me said they thought it was going over. And they said the camper was over way farther than the truck. Scared the ***** out of me. Hense the frame mount and Rancho 9000's.

But the first trip with the new mounts over the US 14 switch backs in the Big Horn Mountains, the camper would slide side ways and clunk against the fender wells. It never did that before these mounts, in 100's of trips over this same route. Hense the rubber mat.

When the wind gets so bad it is blowing me around I want my camper fastened on with more than springs.

Oh... and I have never damaged the bed of a truck, but that one blast of wind did pull my rear bumper up about 2 inches.

 

[dresslered]

dresslered... . You are full of *****

Sure trying to think of a five letter word that would fit? Glad that you've had success with your set-up.

 

[drives mopars]

cheap camper tie downs

i have a welder friend who makes them for 1 st gens



iam sure he can do some for 2nd too



mine work great not sure exact cost

but ide say around 175. 00



bill -- email address removed --

emaiil me if interested