Slide in camper tie downs?

[DPelletier]

Thanks again Dave. The interference with the door is a question that I had as well. I'm having my shop make me a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" U Channel 3/16" thick and 17" long and I'm going to install that between the swing-out bracket and the camper jack mounting bracket. It's being powdercoated white right now. I Have two kids so, it would suck to have to get out of the truck and swing out the bracket to let them out. With this "U" extension, I am hoping to have enough clearance. If not, I'll see if I can mount the swingout backwards (switch pass for driver) and swing the jack back against the camper. If it works, I'll post some pics but I haven't figured out how to run my digital camera yet!

But, back to the tie down tube, you made; what thickness of tubing did you use? I have some 1'x1" 100 wall stainless steel that I might try. It may flex too much though.

Cheers

Dave

 

[DKlimas]

Dave,



The tubing is 3/16 inch walled 1-1/2 inch square steel.



Dave

 

[TowPro]

I made my own. I have the 2" tube slide into the rear hitch for the back, and a belly bar for the front that mounts to existing holes in the frame.

check it out



Got about $28. 00 into it (not including the drill press I always wanted and my time for making it)



I also use the spring loaded turn buckles to hold the camper in.

I had to add a couple links of chain to the turn buckles because they have been shortened to fit bed mount ears.

 

[AKsmoker]

Hey Guys Ive got a torklift kit with the camper mounted bracket. $90 looks just like Daves. Torklift dealer suggested it to relocate the camper tie downs for more clearence on the dully fenders. works great. Had happijack with previous camper, like the torklifts better on the 03.

 

[JRG]

If I do use my own tubing in the hitch for the rears; like Crazy Horse and BV,



* How do you put a set screw in the hitch? (to hold in the tubing)

* Can you buy just the TL for the front only?

* I am concerened with the fuel door clearance. Is it a real prob?

* If the TL is removable, does it hide well?



JRG

 

[BV]

JRG - I sent you a PM

 

[TowPro]

I drilled 2 holes (one on each side) all the way through my factory hitch, and I put these pins through with a spring clip to hold them in place.



I think they are like 3/8" holes. I know, "you should not drill holes in the hitch" but after Dodge proved to use you could when they had there recall to add support to the hitch, I just went ahead and did it. Plus I only haul small trailers with the hitch, the big one uses a reese classic 20K hitch

 

[Crazy Horse]

Here is a photo of the current set I'm making since my new camper is on order. What I did on my last truck (2000 Dodge 3500), and I'm doing to this one (2002 2500) is:



Run the tube about 5" into the reciever. Drill a 5/16" hole out near the verticle brace that runs up to the frame through the reciever and extension and run a 5/16" grade 8 bolt through from the rear. Install locknut. This will prevent the extension from pulling outward.



With the extension in place drill up from the bottom approx. 1" in from where the end of the extension is. Next step I'm drilling and taping for a 7/16"x1. 25" fine thread grade 8 bolt and lock nut. Drill through the reciever and extension. Pull the extension out and tap the extesion for 7/16" fine thread. Slightly enlarge the hole in the reciever to allow the bolt to freely go through the reciever. Reinstall the extension, install the 5/16"x3". Reinstall the 7/16" up from the bottom threading into the extension and lodk down using the jamb nut. You can use a little bit of removable lock tight on the jamb nut.



Doing it this way with the 7/16" bolt provents the extension from rattling around when the camper is on.



Doing it this was has been proven to hold up as my old Lance was in the bed of my dually for almost 21,000 a couple of years ago. I also seriously doubt this is going to compromise the strength of the reciever.

 

[JRG]

O. K... ... Now what about the front, can you buy them seperate? And is the fuel door really a problem?



Thanks,



JRG

 

[Crazy Horse]

I'm going to the front of the box with the new happijac setup and using their struts for tie downs.

 

[Double J]

Crazyhorse - you getting the 820?



Great idea for the rear tie-down location versus the bumper mount!

 

[Crazy Horse]

Double J are trying to stur it up? I'm putting a Northern Lite on this time.

 

[Double J]

Originally posted by Crazy Horse

Double J are trying to stur it up? I'm putting a Northern Lite on this time.

Who me? LOL



Where did you get that piece of stock for the receiver.

 

[Crazy Horse]

Greer Tank, corner of Int Airport Rd and Spenard. I found 1/2" eyebolts this time at Home Depot.

 

[Crazy Horse]

Here the pair ready for the paint booth. #ad

 

[JRG]

Those look great and simple. BUT the factory reciever on the 3rd gens don't have a st8 across square tube. It is some bent round stock like you would see on a late model blazer.



JRG

 

[DPelletier]

JRG,

We welded on 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" steel sleeves to the "pocket" on the bottom of the radius tube factory hitch in order to use slide-in pces similar to what Crazy Horse has built (except in stainless steel). More of a pain than on the 2nd gens, but the factory hitch does look way stronger. Done this on two 3rd Gens so far.



Dave

 

[JRG]

Dave,

Thanks, I was thinking of running a 5' piece of tube bolted to the back of the hitch but still not sure. Prob buy the fronts, but still concerened bout the fuel door issue a little.



JRG

 

[DPelletier]

Yeah, the fuel door thing is a pain. I still haven't fully decided what to do about it yet. At this point I'm considering 3 options;



- 1) The square tube solution that Dave Klimas had utilized in this thread. I already got the steel and everything. My only concern: With my frame mounted tie downs, I won't have as much angle on the front turnbuckles as DKlimas does with his bed mount ones and less angle = more chance of camper moving rearward on rough roads.



- 2) Geno or Mopar fuel door (painted body color). These alum fuel doors have a smaller opening and don't have the offset hinge arrangement of the factory fuel doors. I think I'd gain 2 or 3 inches of clearance this way. Even better if the door frames could be rotated to open up or down. Downside: $153. 00 Canadian for the door (Mopar) plus paint will be $200. 00 - 250. 00. Compared to $0. 00 for me to do method one.



- 3) See how difficult it is to remove the fuel door completely when the camper is on. No $'s, but a bit of a pain probably.



I'll probably investigate #3 and if it is a pain, go with method #1.



Dave

 

[JRG]

Just got the Torklift system on. I am impressed as to the stoutness. Everything you need came in the kit, including a wire with a spirial thing on it to easily thread bolts through the frame. Believe it or not, the bed bolts were the hardest to loosen. Factory locktight was used.



JRG