Slider Hitch or not

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how level should a trailer be?

I have 03 CTD with a shortbed or shortbox which ever you want to call it. I was told by one of the service techs where we have our trailer serviced that as long as I bought a 5ver with a extended pin box that a slider hitch was not nessecary. In the near future we are wanting to go to 5ver,looking at the Keystone Couger 281 model. Gotta! sell that 2000 Prowler 26T TT first though. Could anyone comment on this set up without the slider. :)
 
Extended pin box lets you hit the cab more to the front of the truck get the slider and you will not have to guess if you can make the turn into a tight spot . Some getaway with out a slider and will say not needed but if they could get a free one they would take it in a hart beat. You can make a mock up of a truck and trailer fiver out of cardboard and see four your self how it works just use one inch for one foot use a pin for a pivot . Ron in Metro Louisville KY:confused: :confused: :confused: :D
 
Tony,



You probably know that the pin for a fifth-wheel trailer should be directly over, or slightly (2") ahead of the truck's rear axle when it's all hitched up. With the pin in this location, most fifth-wheels will hit the cab of a shortbed truck when the rig is jackknifed, as when backing into a difficult spot.



There are two ways around this, a sliding hitch, and an extended pin on the trailer. Either will work.



The sliding hitch is a more universal solution, since you can pull any trailer with it. They are expensive, and I know of only one company that makes one that works automatically. The other brands require that you get out, unlock the hitch, slide it aft, lock it in that position, and then you can maneuver the trailer. To tow on the road again, you have to do the whole thing in reverse. The Pulliam SuperGlide hitch uses a cam and a plate mounted on the trailer's hitch to slide aft automatically when the truck turns. I have one of these and I like it a lot.



The extended pin moves the pivot point for the trailer forward, thereby allowing the trailer to miss the cab when the rig is jackknifed. For safety's sake, I would not use an extended pin on any trailer that did not come that way from the factory. (I understand that aftermarket extenders are available. ) Extending the pin location can create bending forces on the trailer's hitch and frame that it was not designed to handle, leading to catastrophic damage.



This isn't an in-depth explanation, but I'm sure you get the idea.



Loren
 
If 1/2 the width of the 5th wheel is greater than the distance from the kingpin bore of the hitch to the back of the cab, the 5th wheel will hit the cab when jackknifed, extended pin box or not. :( Check Ken Lenger's drawings. It's basic geometry. :rolleyes:



IMHO, go for the sliding hitch.



Rusty
 
Pullrite Super Glide

This is a reprint of my post to another thread on the subject. Also note, I have a 2004 Cougar 281 EFS. It measures 33' 3" from the back of the bumper to the front edge of the pin plate.



Pullrite Super Glide



Having just pulled my brand new 30' Cougar 5th wheel home from Mesa, AZ to Las Vegas with the Pullrite Super Glide 16K, I am compelled to chime in on this subject.



I've bumper pulled for a few years, but 5th-wheeling is new to me. I was extremely concerned, literally losing sleep, over fitting a 5th wheel to my short box 4x4. With 265 tires, the top of my tailgate stands 4' 10'' tall. I researched this board and many others searching for ideas and answers about my situation. I found that the owners of Pullrite automatic sliding hitches are unanimous in their positive support of this product. To a man, not one regret.



My trailer dealer, on the other hand, was not so keen on selling me this item. The part cost and the installation cost are considerably higher than standard non-slider and manual slider hitches. No trailer salesman wants to threaten a sale over the increased cost of a superior hitch. The line on manual sliders is, "all you have to do is get out and slide it when you might be (backing) into a tight turn situation. " Theoretically, that's great. Practically, that's a pain in the posterior. What if you misjudge that situation or just plain forget because you're busy trying to keep a handle on the situation? What if you're already in a bind and the thing won't slide?



I did not want to deal with any of this at the risk of damaging truck and trailer. The only downside to the Pullrite Super Glide is the price. My solution was to pay now for the insurance of avoiding those risks rather than possibly pay later for the damage, inconvenience and embarassment of the potential problem. Another plus with this hitch is that it mounts under the bed. If you and two of your best buddies decide to remove it, you'll have 4 silver-dollar sized holes in your bed, no rails or brackets.



There are a couple of limitations unique to this hitch that didn't come to light for me until I was commited, neither of which would have changed my mind.



1. A keyed king pin slider plate is mounted (could be screwed, they welded mine) on the king pin (trailer side). This locks the king pin to the hitch head which is critical to the automatic cam sliding action - hard to explain, not hard to understand when you see it. The point is, you'll never need any lube on your hitch head because the pin doesn't rotate like every other hitch. In other words, a trailer with the Super Glide keyed mounting plate is NOT compatable with any standard 5th wheel hitch! The king pin assembly can be replaced if it ever comes to that.



2. The other limitation is hook-up angle. It's a little more restrictive than standard hitches. Pullrite rates maximum angle for hitching/unhitching at 10-degrees. Again, manipulaing the hitch makes this easily understandable.



I am very happy with my decision. As a complete 5th-wheeler novice, after one technician supervised practice hitch/unhitch, I was able to hitch and unhitch all by my lonesome (wife supervised of course). Watching the thing in action on slow, tight turns and never seeing the trailer close enough to the cab to make me sweat is well worth it.



Good luck with your choice.

Neil
 
Get the auto-slide (I have 16K version). I tend to park my brain before vacations so I am very happy not to have to worry about turning too sharp.
 
slider

I am not sure on the Cougar. A friend who also has a 2003 CTD SB has a 2003 3575 Big Sky and Reese 20 K hitch. He has been in some tight places with his with no problem. We bought the Everest 363K and got the Reese 16K slider for my 98 CTD SB just in case. This weekend we were tailgating together and discovered that his pin box gives him more clearance even though both fivers are supposed to have the same frame and extended pin. Even the clearance between his truck and the generator door is greater by almost a foot! Just measure everything carefully and turn slowly to try every conceivable situation. As for expense, my dealer only charged about $150 more for the slider so I think it is worth it just in case. My only problem is I can't slide mine while my generator is in the back of the bed. I am working on drawer slides to put the Honda in the generator bay.
 
Wow! Thank's every one for the feed back on the slider. This will really help me make up my mind when it comes time to purchase. I''ve had four bumper pull trailers , but have never towed a 5ver. :D
 
I tow a 100" wide fifth wheel with an 03 short bed and have a Pull Rite 24K automatic slider hitch. Was at a campground in New Mexico last month and a fella with a D/C 03 short bed came over to look at my hitch. Short version of the story is that he wished he had bought the automatic slider since he had hit his cab in a sharp turn. He had an extended kingpin on the trailer but still managed to hit the truck (although some will clear with just an extended kingpin). Pull Rite seems to be an excellent product.
 
Originally posted by Tony T.

Thank's for the pic Jumbo Jet------------------------:--) that's a good looking hitch!



Tony,



Go to the Pullrite website and request the free video and literature on this hitch, I did and got it about a week later. Pretty impressive hitch, but not cheap, about 1800. 00



My next truck in a few years will be a 3G and the 3G longbox quad is about 5" longer than the 2G. I am maxed out in length in my garage, and definetly want the truck kept in the garage, so I will get the short box, pay the bucks for the pullrite and all problems solved, i. e. can pull the 5vr safely and not worry about hitting the cab in a jacknife situation AND can put the truck in the garage.



Gotta pay to play.
 
Again guy's thumbs up on the Pullrite hitch,but I don't think I could handle the 1800. 00 price tag,maybe get lucky and find one second hand at a good price somewhere. What would you recommend as a second choice slider. You know something a working man could handle. :-laf I still have to add more goodies to the CTD, and upgrade this dinosaur PC I'm using!
 
Tony,



I believe the Pullrite is the only AUTOMATIC sliding hitch out there. All of the others you have to slide yourself. I like the automatic feature in an emergency situation, peace of mind is worth the price.
 
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