Here I am

Sloppy converter in 93 auto

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Just Added My Truck To Reader's Rigs

Oil Leak Repair Help!

Status
Not open for further replies.

"Mad Max"

TDR MEMBER
Hi peoples. I'm new to the site and from what I've read I have found the right place!

I just picked up a nice '93 CTD/auto-od LE, club-cab long bed 2x4. Sucker is loaded and at 209,348 miles the engine runs great. The transmission shifts nice and firm including od, is geared 3:54 and get's 17 mpg cty, 20 hwy so far. BUT, here's the deal: The converter feels like one my friend has in his 12-second 72' 340 'Cuda and not one you'd find in a diesel rig that loves low rpm torque. I don't tow often and mostly cruise on the highway going to and from work until my '70 Challenger is done, BUT, the rig is nearly tapped out (rpm) at cruising speed (70 mph), and is very hard pressed to do 80. It cannot maintain 65 mph going uphill towing my 18" car hauler. - Something doesn't feel right - Now, I'm not drag racing this thing, but shouldn't the rig have more legs than this?

I got a part number for a converter from BD (1060210X), and it sounds like that would do the trick, but I need y'all's advice.

Also, the dealer told me I had a 47RH(?) transmission, and the guys at BD said I had an A-518. Are they the same animal?

Thanks everyone - Sam
 
First things first, welcome onboard. Oo. This is the place you want to be for anything to do with your Dodge CTD.





That's exactly how my rig used to run. :( The factory convertor really sucks. Trans, convertor and valve body are next on my list. But even with what I have done so far it'll pull hard up to 95 and top out at somewhere over 100 (about 2800rpm). :D

Tows my 23' boat like it was not even there too. :cool:



SP
 
Woah, yeah - ok, that is where I'm wanting to go. Okay, don't kill me, but the first thing I have to do is get a tach so I can be sure of the rpmology (didn't have one from the factory), and I'm looking at the Autometer 2888 mini diesel variety. Do these tachs get 'fed' off of the pulses from the alternator, or is there a crank trigger gizmo out there? I'd actually love to find a half-moon tach that'll lay flat on the dash, kind of like the external '69 GTO hood versions. Just from the engine sound at 80 mph the thing just has nothing left, and it's revving its heart out. Any advice on the tach?

Mucho thanks - Sam
 
Sam,what Id run is the DTT 89% TC. You will transfer a lot more power after that,you wont believe the difference until you drive it after. BD may make a similar TC,you'd have to ask,but DTT's are nice and tight,perfect for a truck without lockup.
 
Moparitis, it's extremely contagious:-laf



About the tach, I have a banks tach on my rig. It hooks right up to an unused plug that's under the dash near the fuse box. It uses the signal from the hall-effect (maybe magnetic) crank sensor that's already on the engine. As for other flavors of tachs, I'll have to leave that for someone else.



Cheers,

SP
 
Snow man is right. DTT is the only way to go. Do a search and you will find DTT out sales BD 10 to 1. DTT service is second to none.



mark
 
Okay, um, next I'd like to know how to bolt the new 5. 7 HEMI into my '70 Chall without any custom fabrication :D - Y'all kick butt! Thanks for the advice - word of mouth from experience = priceless. Diesel stuff is like HEMI stuff; expensive, but only the first time... .



Also, can y'all beam the DTT website or their # to me; I'll be giving them a holler.



Gracias amigos - really appreciate the help.
 
Sam,



Don't even think of getting a BD converter, i had one in my 93 for about 5 years, and just had it removed and replaced with a DTT, ABSOLUTELY!! no comparison, DTT is the only way to go.



Rick
 
sayars. hi and welcome sounds like the bombing bug is about to bite get yourself a pyrometer as well to watch those egt's someone to check out is piersdiesel.com real nice people. bill
 
Sorry fellas - got busy there for a few days. Thanks for your help - I'm taking the rig to have the transmission serviced this week and to have the valves adjusted. The previous owner never remembers having the valves adjusted, so now at 209K miles I think it's, um, due. Also having the fuel filter r/r'd. Right now I'm trying to baseline the rig, and the mods will come soon thereafter.

First things first tho - a tach, trans temp, boost, and pyro gauges. I hate not knowing what's going on underneath.



Won't be long until the '93 becomes the donor for my '74 crew cab dually 4x4 (my goal all along). If Mother Mopar won't make a real 4-door, I will. Custom 4 and 5-link suspension w/ adjustable air bags is in store for the rig when it's all over, as is a custom roll cage to augment the 19. 5' frame - hearing the frame twist makes my nervous system nervous... .



Later amigo's - Sam
 
You've got some first rate tips on your transmission/tc issues, so let me suggest that for the mean time you have the line pressure on your transmission upped to about 58psi. Stock it comes around 52, and the upper limit for them is about 60psi... after that you can bulge/break seals.

This will help reduce some slippage which will help reduce a bit of heat.

The A518 is a 727 with an OD unit on it. Basically a decent transmission if well maintained.

The 47rh is the next revision, used in the 94's I think.

As for you're RPM, one thing that will help a bit is if you "up" the "high idle" or governed speed a bit. You should be good to go up to 2950-3000 if you want to. That will atleast let the truck "pull" a little longer in each gear, and help your top end a bit.



Bob.
 
Its true that the bd converter that was sold 5 years ago was pure junk---no better than stock, but a few years ago i replaced my old bd conv. with the new bd with x-stator and noticed a hugh difference. I can'd say how it compares with dtt as i have never tried it but i am satisfied with the new bd. I think mine has the same part # as you mentioned.
 
Thanks again for the help fellas. I am having the truck serviced today and the mechanic there (who apparently speaks 'Cummins' very well) told me that the '93 CTD's will only rev to about 2100 - 2200 rpm and no more, :confused: which would explain why mine won't go much farther than 80 mph. Now, reading y'all's replies, I have a hard time believing the early CTD's won't spin more than 2200 rpm from the factory. Did y'all's trucks spin past 2200 before any mods, and are the mods easy enough for someone who is used to tweaking carbs and not injector pumps?



I'm not trying to go 160 mph, but I am trying to get a baseline on how the truck should perform. The guy drove it before starting to service it, and said it 'drives like all the others do, no problems noticed'. Great. I have to get a tach, and I have one ordered, but something just doesn't feel right. I'll know more after they pull the transmission pan and have a look.



Again, just airing status, but y'all are really helping a lot. Sooner or later I'll have the bulletproof Kenworth I set out to build!



- Sam
 
sayars, my 91 tops out around 2400-2450. 5 speed standard basicly a virgin. dodgeram.org. Try this web site to get the information on letting the dogs out :D Bill
 
I've turned 3600rpm's afew times on the dyno rollers and 3300rpm's on the street many times playing around. :D So tell your mechanic he needs to learn how to tweak these things. ;)



mark

PDR - Black Sheep Racing
 
In stock trim mine topped out at around 2450 RPM. It started to defuel sooner, but was rev limited at 2500 RPM.

The governor setting is a piece of cake. Now remember that nascar mark has made some pretty decent progress, all on his own doing, with his truck. He's basically self taught thru tinkering, experimenting and like me, listening to pro's like Piers and Al at PDR for example. Mark is also the current "top dog" in HP around here, not to mention right out there in the courage department too... . 3600 RPM ... :--) :--) :--) and that's without valve spring upgrades too. .





bob.



FWIW, I drew the line at 2980 or so.
 
Before any pump adjustments my rig would start to defuel at about 2400rpm and top out at about 2800rpm (no load). Now I have my pump's high idle set to about 3100rpm. Pulls much better through the shifts. Probably starts to defuel at about 2700rpm or so. Definitely increased the fun to drive factor. :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top