Slow Fill up No More!!

[WMcGuire]

Oo. I did it!! I just couldn't take it anymore, That slow fill up was killin me but I was just too lazy to go to all the trouble to install one of Spooled up's kits, so I did it the lazy way, got a 11/16th long drill bit and measured the proper place in the bed, cleaned and roughed up the top of the tank where I was to drill, set my compressor to 20 lbs pressure and put the hose in the fill tube packed with rags, pulled the vent hose off then gently placed it back on the vent pipe for a pressure pop-off, then gently drilled down through the bed and into the fuel tank, worked great, all the drill cuttings blew outward from the pressure in the tank, oh yeah, the fuel tank was almost full, here's where I had to lower the tank about 2 inches to get my 1/2 inch pipe tap in there, threaded the 11/16" hole to 1/2" NPT, had previously bought a 1/2" NPT X 3/4" hose 90 degree adapter from the local auto parts store ( it's about 2 inches long and is usually used for connecting the heater hose to the water pump, lost the box, so I dont know what the proper nomenclature is), cemented it in and built up around it with a plastic bumper repair kit I already had, the stuff is supposed to repair fuel tanks too, got 4' of 3/4" fuel hose & some clamps and that was it, a plastic 11/16 snap in plug for the bed, and it works like a champ, I is so happy Oo. Oo.

 

[bombero]

Oh, you went too much trouble. Once you drilled thru the bed and top of the tank that should have done it. The filter should catch the plastic stuff, it dosent do much anyway. So what if you leak a little bit of diesel on the road. We all did that with our gassers 40yrs ago. The thing I was wondering was how you are going to patch the hole in you bed. There is a epoxy that they make faults teeth out of that might work?

 

[WMcGuire]

wass no problemo, found a black plastic snap in plug for the bed, perfect match for the plugs already in there courtesy of DC, oh and one more thing I forgot to mention, I jacked the rear end up and removed the rear wheel to gain access to the tank area.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

My Transfer Flow 56 gallon replacement tank has two vent valves in the top and I filled it at the truck stop. The nozzle clicked off with less than 1 gallon to go for the TRAX computer to read 56 gallons in the tank and the filler neck to fill up.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

I did the full procedure when I did mine last weekend. Took a little over an hour to do the whole thing. When filling it up, it clicked off once, then I put another . 3 of a gallon and I could see it in the filler neck. Previously, it took atleast 10 minutes of clicking in . 2 gallons at a shot to fill it all the way up.

 

[nickleinonen]

how thick is the factory fuel tank?... i've been thinking of doing the vent mod [but with local parts as i have all kinds of fittings and hose at home] but the bulkhead fitting is the hard one to get. so i was thinking of just tapping the tank, but if it is thin, i won't.

 

[Spooled-up]

how thick is the factory fuel tank?...

I'd say it's about 3/16ths thick.

 

[nickleinonen]

I'd say it's about 3/16ths thick.

thanks for that bit of info... a little too thin for me for tapping threads in it... i've got a lead on a 1/2" plated steel JIC bulkhead fitting that i might be able to make work, but i need to find out from the hydraulics guy if i can get that in ORFS and the approprate reuseable hose ends to work with the orfs fittins [less likely to have leakage with the orfs over a jic fitting]

 

[WMcGuire]

Re: fuel tank thickness, I think Spooled-up is about right; 3/16 to 1/8th, whatever, I was able to get a good thread in it but I built up the thickness first with the bondo type material, its a two part plactic repair kit, good for repairing plastic bumpers-fuel tanks etc, comes in one color-black, I think I had a total thickness of about 3/8" threaded, so far no leaks, all is well. much easier than dropping the tank without a lot of industrial shop tools handy

 

[LesStallings]

No offense intended but I think you are jury-rigging the vent and I bet down the road you will have more problems than you expect. Spooled-up's kit is cheap, proven, and correct materials for the conditions of diesel and plastic.



For the same reasons I solder my electrical connections, I've installed a quality fuel tank vent.



Please, at least check your locally purchased parts for compatibility with diesel. "Bondo type material" may not do well after contact with diesel for a few months. And don't forget that the plastic tank will flex with the temperature changes and changing weight of a couple of hundred pounds of fuel sloshing around.



Not me. Nope. I went with a proven product. A cheap proven product at that!