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Slow turning starter

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Turbo problems

Valve adjustment question

Every time I go to start my 2004.5 it acts like battery is on its last legs. AutoZone stress tested each battery and they tested fine 13.4 volts and 12.9). Alternator is pumping out 14 volts. I've searched for previous posts on this - no one has ever had a starter that will barely turn over? Hate to pull the starter to have it checked but seems like my only option before heading out on 2700 mile trip. Any ideas?? Doesn't matter if motor is hot or cold, just barely turns over enough but always starts so far, just makes me nervous to be on the road with this dilemma . Use to spin quite fast until couple of days ago.
 
My starter was dragging and kept getting slower. I was ready to get my starter rebuilt and decided I'd check my terminals. The terminals and posts looked good, until I pulled the terminals off. LOTS of corrosion you couldn't see with everything connected and the crossover cable was corroded for @ 6" under the insulation on each end. I crimped and soldered eyes on the cables and made me a new crossover cable and went with the military terminals. It solved all my problems.
 
Ditto what @BigPapa says. A starter cannot perform any better than the sum of the voltage drops across of all of its electrical connections.

AutoZone stress tested each battery and they tested fine 13.4 volts and 12.9). Alternator is pumping out 14 volts.

Not sure what this test accomplished. Was the engine running during the test? Were the batteries disconnected from each other?

Each battery should be tested separately (disconnected from each other) without the engine running. Two 15 second 400 amp loads placed on each battery would tell the tale. During the test the battery voltage should never fall below 9.6 volts (I prefer 10 volts as minimum).

It is also important that the load tester be clamped to each battery post, not the clamp that connects to the battery post.

- John
 
I just spent > $275+ on new cables (advertised as military spec, whatever that means) for both batteries pos and neg cables and installed about 4 months ago. Will check the grounds tho, and BTW, the batteries are 1 year old 750 CCA Duralasts. I removed the starter and took it to my local starter/alt rebuilder to check out. They do a great job, been in business for 40+ years and do heavy equipment, tractors, and 4 wheeler starter/alts SHR Suto/Electric, Cumming, Ga. Will report on results.
 
I recently found out that DC clamp on ammeters exist. I knew about the AC versions but the DC one was news to me. Example, Klein CL800. That might have been an interesting test to see if low amp draw or hi amp draw plus these meters can record MIN-MAX also.

Good luck
 
I did have the batteries load tested at Autozone but did not isolate them by disconnecting them as petersonj mentioned so I didn't think about them "bleeding" voltage over from each other?
 
Also, the contractors in the starter are easy to replace and from what I understand a fairly common

My friend just rebuilt his starter contactors on his 2005.... similar symptoms some times clicking and no cranking, he's all good now from what I understand. Not to big a job to pull and check.
 
Get a helper the starters on these trucks are very heavy. I did contacts on my old 99 with the kit. Second time I was older and starter was to heavy for me to hold it up and get the nuts on. I would seriously think about a rebuild and check the cables of course
 
I can't figure out why they keep making s*** heavier! I bought 2x12 PT to redo my trailer deck and they were SO HEAVY. Waaay heavier than they were 20 years ago.....probably the same situation on these starters.
 
I can't figure out why they keep making s*** heavier! I bought 2x12 PT to redo my trailer deck and they were SO HEAVY. Waaay heavier than they were 20 years ago.....probably the same situation on these starters.

I’d guess with the current supply chain issues, as well as demand, that the PT you bought was fresher and thus heavier due to the higher water content than one that been on the shelf, or a trailer, for a while.

Trees aren’t getting denser with our high lumber demand.
 
I took starter to local starter/alternator rebuilder here (SHR Rebuilders, Cumming/Canton, Ga) and they said it was toast on the inside and rebuilt it for $155, that included shot beading and painting outside and new internal components. Not sure if that included the contact upgrade, probably not, should have had one of Mr B's kits ready for them to install. Its back to normal fast spin. Thanks for all responses. Took about 20 minutes to install from the ground on a creeper but the positive cable connection took another 30 minutes before I found a short 3/8" drive pivot handle ratchet to maneuver in that tight space to tighten the nut which 11/16" was close enough fit. Thanks for all the help.
 
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